Timing belt has only 24k on it, but is 7 years old

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
7
Location
California
Back in 2007 I had the timing belt, water pump, camshaft seals, and tensioner replaced, plus the other three belts on my 89 Maxima.

I was told that rubber would probably start to crack after that, but have not noticed that on the 3 serpentine belts, although one of the tensioners seems to have polished the water pump and power steering a little, but no cracks. There was a little oil coming from valve covers, but was only on front and back, not toward the timing belt cover, managed to stop it by tightening loose screws.

I live in southern California, so the weather is pretty mild for the most part.

Car has about 94.5k on it in total, got it at about 42k in 2002 with all original parts.

I have gotten different opinions from different people, figure I would ask here.
 
Last edited:
Run a high mileage oil and change the belt. I do every 4 years or 80k, whichever comes first. Why risk it but it is your car so in the end do as you like. Either way good luck and happy holidays
 
Originally Posted By: RaptonX
I have gotten different opinions from different people, figure I would ask here.


For what it's worth, Honda's timing belt change interval is 105k miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. So at least one main-line engine manufacturer believes that there should be a time component to the change interval recommendation. I don't know if others are the same way.
 
I did a quick search, and the engine in your car, if it's the V-6, is likely interference. aka, if the belt does break, so will your engine.

If you want to keep the car, it would probably be a good idea to get the timing belt changed. if it wasn't interference and you could easily inspect the belt, I'd risk it, but not if it's interference.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
I did a quick search, and the engine in your car, if it's the V-6, is likely interference. aka, if the belt does break, so will your engine.

If you want to keep the car, it would probably be a good idea to get the timing belt changed. if it wasn't interference and you could easily inspect the belt, I'd risk it, but not if it's interference.


It is certainly interference, I would not worry much if it was not, lol, though the last time i had it done it was like $1200 Course they replaced a bunch of other things that were rather old, I think it is about $800, though money is a little tight right now.
 
Do timing belts have a date code on them, like tires do? If time is such a big issue with timing belts, I don't want to buy a new belt that is older than 3 months.
 
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Do timing belts have a date code on them, like tires do? If time is such a big issue with timing belts, I don't want to buy a new belt that is older than 3 months.
I think it is exposure to temperatures and the elements, I would think they are sealed in a package, no idea how old the new one was, but the old one was the original, so, my first belt was 18 years old and at 70,235. which was beyond overdue. If I could get my engine replaced with non interference I would.
 
Belts harden and break down with age. 7 years is pretty old. I would definitely change it...there's really no way to tell when it will break. Sometimes they start to fray or squeal, other times they just snap.
 
My timing belt went over 16 years and 186k miles and it still didn't break, I changed it.
 
What is Mazda's time recommendation on changing the belt? Surely they have a time and mileage requirement.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
What is Mazda's time recommendation on changing the belt? Surely they have a time and mileage requirement.
I am not sure about Mazda, I was told nissan maximas are 60k, at least that is what it says in my manual. They just never mention time.
 
Personally, if it is an interference engine I would replace it. The issue I have is the 24k miles in 7 years. That means that the car either doesn't get driven far at all, or it sits a lot. Sitting is the worst possible thing for rubber components.

A few years ago I bought a 1990 Jeep Cherokee with only 78k miles on it. The thing was in beautiful shape inside and out, but it had sat for 2 years before I bought it. The tires were only 3 years old with 10k miles on them but I had to replace them because they were dry rotted beyond belief. Almost every rubber component ended up needing to be replaced on that vehicle just from sitting.

If it was a non-interference engine it might be worth taking the chance, but I wouldn't chance it with yours. Considering its a 1989 with less than 95k miles on it, the car sounds like it is in really good shape and worth spending the money on.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Personally, if it is an interference engine I would replace it. The issue I have is the 24k miles in 7 years. That means that the car either doesn't get driven far at all, or it sits a lot. Sitting is the worst possible thing for rubber components.

A few years ago I bought a 1990 Jeep Cherokee with only 78k miles on it. The thing was in beautiful shape inside and out, but it had sat for 2 years before I bought it. The tires were only 3 years old with 10k miles on them but I had to replace them because they were dry rotted beyond belief. Almost every rubber component ended up needing to be replaced on that vehicle just from sitting.

If it was a non-interference engine it might be worth taking the chance, but I wouldn't chance it with yours. Considering its a 1989 with less than 95k miles on it, the car sounds like it is in really good shape and worth spending the money on.



The car is in ok shape, small things here and there are going just from age. I won't be able to afford it right now, and I will have to be driving it to and from a location for one month. The other belts look decent, no cracks, just a little glossy on one since the tensoner presses on the other side. I think weather and temperatures do play a factor, my tires are about 3 years old, and only have some wear on them, no cracks or rot. It really does not sit, just short distance driving.

If I could get a car that had a non-interference engine, I probably would, though, they do not get as much mpg as I have heard.
 
Last edited:
Mom got 9 years and about 90,000 miles from the factory t-belt in her 1985 Nissan Maxima. It then snapped, and our who family learned what a timing belt was.

So if you are using an OEM belt and hardware, I would change it at 8 years.

It really bothers me that such a good engine could be given a crippling weakness.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Mom got 9 years and about 90,000 miles from the factory t-belt in her 1985 Nissan Maxima. It then snapped, and our who family learned what a timing belt was.

So if you are using an OEM belt and hardware, I would change it at 8 years.

It really bothers me that such a good engine could be given a crippling weakness.


I think mine is an OEM number is 1302885e86 and it said OE, so yeah. my old one was 70000 at 18 years, ancent.
 
In your case I would change the belt only. Leave the seals, pump, idlers, and tensioner alone. Easy diy. Set at TDC, mark old belt, pull old belt, transfer or confirm marks on new belt, and install.
 
The interval on the timing belt on the M 20 in the 528e is 4 yrs/60 K. After several changes at that interval, I have concluded that it is very conservative. My last TB interval was 7 yrs/75 k. I would replace the tensioner along with the belt. Only because I have had a couple ones that rattled and used up their lube. Doan wan no seized tensioner bearing. A Conti kit,hecho in Mexico is 35$ belt and tensioner. It is a 4-6 hr drive way job on the 528e. The Enchanter did one in 2 hrs one day he said. He works at a shop.
Can you get a good look at the TB easily? The last one I changed had cracks but was otherwise intact. For the cost in parts ,a change gave me peace of mind.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top