1972 Beetle

[Rick in PA]

Originally Posted By: Whimsey
...Also in the winter the heat and defroster were almost totally useless unless you ran it hard for quite a while before it started to warm up. That was a long time ago

.

Whimsey


Yeah, my wife (then girlfriend) had a Bug. Here in Pennsylvania it was, bundle-up in the winter. Although that shouldn't be a problem in California.

Her first one was a '67, sky blue with one gray front fender. The second one was a tan '73. Oh, to be young again.

 

[vintageant]

Reconfirming what others have posted. 10W30 or 15W40 diesel oil has the additional ZDDP recommended for these engines.

 

[JimPghPA]

Mobil V twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil would be a good oil for that air cooled engine.

 

[meep]

we had a few. 50 weight has some advantages in those engines too, especially in the summer. I think 3000 miles can be a stretch on these things-- air cooled motors can run significantly hotter than liquid cooled, and the tolerances in machining are a lot bigger than temp-controlled engines.

1- inspect heat exchangers for leaks into compartment air
2- as said above, replace all fuel lines
3- buy a dwell/rpm meter and a timing light
4- watch the fuel pump -- they can rupture and leak fuel into the crank case
5- consider an early carb rebuild to make sure the floats stop (don't ask...)

Very cool experience-- but I wouldn't want myself or my kids in one. He/she will likely figure it out after a while.

-m

 

[dnastrau]

Just a couple of things to add...

The engine only holds about 2.5 quarts of oil if it is stock - don't run it overfilled.

When adjusting the valves, make sure the engine is dead cold.


Andrew S.

 

[ddrumman2004]

I had a 71 VW Beetle 1600, bought new in 71 for around 1800 bucks as well as I remember.

After installing an extractor exhaust, manifold, electronic ignition and a Holley Bug Spray carb......that thing came to life! Did all my own oil changes and maintenance. 10-40 if I remember correctly.

Drove it three years and sold it.

 

[meep]

remarkable little engines. I bought a 73 superbeetle for $50, pulled the engine and left the car at the 'yard. got it home--- I noted that the crank would stiffen every 1/2 turn. so I pulled the heads. every bit of free space was packed with carbon. the pistons were actually contacting the carbon at the top of every stroke.

so I scraped out all the carbon, cleaned it all out, replaced the spark coil (the reason the car was junked, sad), and tied it down to my parents' front porch. ran fuel to it and 12v from a battery. jumper cables straight to the starter. the moment fuel hit the carb (clear vinyl tubing), it fired right up.

It had sat for 11 years per the records in the glove box.

It didn't use head gaskets.... metal on metal. either soft metal or tight tolerances!

front porch... ya might be a redneck if....

M

 

[mene]

Originally Posted By: meep
we had a few. 50 weight has some advantages in those engines too, especially in the summer. I think 3000 miles can be a stretch on these things-- air cooled motors can run significantly hotter than liquid cooled, and the tolerances in machining are a lot bigger than temp-controlled engines.

1- inspect heat exchangers for leaks into compartment air
2- as said above, replace all fuel lines
3- buy a dwell/rpm meter and a timing light
4- watch the fuel pump -- they can rupture and leak fuel into the crank case
5- consider an early carb rebuild to make sure the floats stop (don't ask...)

Very cool experience-- but I wouldn't want myself or my kids in one. He/she will likely figure it out after a while.

-m


All of the above plus "check that all of the engine to body rubber seals are there and in good shape, that all of the cooling tins are there and if it has a thermostat to speed up the warming up all the parts are there and not stuck", 50 grade oil, pertronix points eliminator, check crank end play, check rear (front in this case) crank seal for leaks use viton seal if needs replacement, 3K OCI is too much 1,5~2K is the limit (no real oil filter), check if it has the right battery otherwise prepare for a fire as soon as somebody sits in the right side of the rear seat, check drum brakes and adjust, retorque Cyl. heads, check if any valve is getting tighter in between adjustments, sometimes they begin to stretch and break, check belt tension, check and/or adjust clutch cable, and last but not least if the engine lid is vented check that the rain shield is in place if it is not vented find one from a super beetle or a convertible but the super is better. I know is a lot but a lot of headaches will be avoided. Best of luck, I have been thinking in going back to aircooled.

 

[Doog]

I had a 72 Superbeetle. It got whatever 10w30 or 10w40 that I had or was on sale. It ran like a champ.

 

[yvon_la]

Shell rotella t1 sae30 ,since those warm up quick this oil is perfect and its tested viscosity wise at higher temperature officially by the standard regulation.it is one of the limited few engine that need single weight oil (air cooled)this oil is recommended for detroit diesel 8v92 or 6v71 .so dont sweat it ,your beetle will love this ooil .let it warm up in winter (till needle move)

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Shell rotella t1 sae30 ,since those warm up quick this oil is perfect and its tested viscosity wise at higher temperature officially by the standard regulation.it is one of the limited few engine that need single weight oil (air cooled)this oil is recommended for detroit diesel 8v92 or 6v71 .so dont sweat it ,your beetle will love this ooil .let it warm up in winter (till needle move)
Shell T1 SAE30 now only meets API CF and API CF-2.

Chevron Delo SAE30 meets CF-2, CF, and SJ. It is very similar to Shell Rotella SAE30.