Which 75w-140?

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I have a 2003 Toyota Sequoia with 120k miles; the diff fluid was replaced at 50k miles by Carmax. The manual calls for 75w-140 @3.9qt and I tow a 4000lb boat weather permitting. Are there any differences in gear oil brands? Which gear oil should I choose? Temps in Phoenix are as low 40F and as high as 120F.

Around me, there is:
-Supertech, $11.37/qt
-Valvoline Synpower, $14
-Mobil 1, $18
-Lucas, $15
-Peak, $13
-Royal Purple, $16
 
I would say cant go wrong with Mobil 1. However I just put Royal Purple in my 09 Charger. Dont feel or hear any difference. Im confident the RP or Mobil will be just fine for me. I tow about 600lbs.
 
Differential fluid is needed to change about 50-60k miles interval, therefore $ should not be a big concern. Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1 and Royal Purple should be in your list.

Personally I like Amsoil and Redline.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Valvoline Synpower.


+1
thumbsup2.gif
 
First of all, do you have a limited slip differential in the vehicle? That will push a decision towards either wanting a fluid with FM, or adding it in afterward.


It's likely that any decent GL-5 will suffice, but SAE-J2360 fluids are "better" in that they are not ony tested for lab specs and content, but also include performance application testing in real world use. The SAE spec is an adaptation of a MIL spec for gear lubes, and is more robust than just GL-5.


Walmart claims that their semi-syn is J-2360 approved on their website, but when I contacted them, they could not provide full documentaiton, and I've not seen it on the list. Mobil 1 is not on the list, believe it or not. I will also note that there are some dino (conventional) lubes that are qualified, whereas some syns are not. So those of you who think syns are "da bom" and can never be topped are fooling yourself. Case in point; the Valvoline HD lubes are conventional, and the Mobil 1 is not even on the list ... food for thought.

(note- for some reason, the Synpower is listed under Ashland, but the others are under Valvoline, so you have to pay attention to the whole list. Valvoline Syngard is under Valvoline, but Valvoline Synpower is under Ashland ... get the point? Also, Mobil's products are under ExxonMobil; while they do have the Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic lube qualified, and they do have their dino Mobilube lubes qualified, they do NOT have the normal Mobil 1 qualified ... )

Here is the best source I know of for the direct J-2360 criteria approvals:
http://www.pri-network.org/other-programs/automotive-qpl/lubricant/
Open the link to the "Current QPL listing" and see for yourself.

Here's the Walmart page where they claim to meet the spec: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-75W-90-Syn-Blend-Gear-Oil-1-Quart/16795248#Specifications
Here's the Valvoline link (the 75w-90 is qualified, but not the thicker grade!): http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower_gear.pdf
Here's the Lucas link; they claim to "exceed" specs, including a MIL spec, but there is no proof or license I can find: http://lucasoil.com/images/documents/TDS_Lucas-Synthetic-SAE-75W-90.pdf
You can search the rest; it's not hard to do ...

I believe, unless something has changed, that the ONLY fluid on your list that is SAE J-2360 approved by the PRI is the Valvoline. They do update this list often, so check before you buy.



I am not saying that any lube that's not on the list is junk; I would NEVER imply that. What I'm saying is that while GL-5 is a decent spec, the SAE J-2360 is a far more demanding spec, and has more robust criteria to meet. Any lube meeting SAE J-2360 is a GL05, but not all GL-5s are qualified to SAE J-2360. The SAE spec is a more demanding standard. If you tow or have harsh conditions, then the SAE J-2360 is what you would want to shoot for. And there are both syn and dino lubes that are and are not qualified, so don't make assumptions just because you believe that syns are the answer for everything! In fact, this is yet more proof that often times, conventional lubes are every bit as capable as a syn, despite all the marketing manure you read about.

Bottom line is this: while manufacturers can make claims (some true, some misleading), it's often advisabel to give third-party, non-biased testing credentials the most weight in a decision. Look over the SAE J-2360 list. Use facts and data, not mythology and rhetoric, as your guide!

Will any GL-5 work? Probably so.
Will any qualified J-2360 do "better"? Probably so.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tony1679
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Valvoline Synpower.


+1
thumbsup2.gif



+2. I have Synpower in my F-150 diffs. But M1, RP, Amsoil, Supertech would be fine too.
 
I've had good luck with M1 and amsoil svg. Some claim that synthetics will boost MPGs a bit, I'm not sure I agree, unless there is a slight change in viscosity. The sae spec issue above is an interesting point. GL 4/5 seem to just indicate a level of additization, so if the sae spec is more rigorous, excellent. That said, while the wrong oil in an engine can have big ramifications sometimes, I don't know that differentials are as iffy.

And if you're changing the fluid at 36-50ish k miles, it may not make a difference at all. How much has differential tech changed since say the 1950s, vs engine and transmission tech?
 
Thanks for all the replies for gear oil recommendation! I went with Valvoline SynPower 75w-140 at Autozone for $13/q ($60 total). I looked into the SAE J-2360, but could not find any locally available gear oil in 75w140.

What should the interval be to replace the diff fluid? There's no mention in the maintenance schedule so I was thinking every 60k but should I go longer/less?
 
Bryan: Good advice above.

Since you tow: I would add a rear diff cover that has a drain plug and fill plug. Makes gear oil change a 15 min deal. Normally the new covers add a bit of volume to the rear which aids a bit in cooling.

I will not comment on your list of gear oils to use. I am very partial to Amsoil & Redline in my rear and front diffs.

As stated above: do the research to see if you have a L/S rearend. If so? use the appropriate L/S additive.

As for Service? That depends on how much you tow! How long you tow? Temps? Some say if you tow heavy and alot? Some say every 35K miles.

My personal opinion--> If you tow part time and not really heavy loads? 50K miles is a place to start. {Give or Take}

Like I said-->To make the job very short and sweet! Invest in a diff cover with a drain plug and fill hole.
 
If you tow a boat you may want to change the fluid more often than 50k if there is a chance to have water inside.
 
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