Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 2549mi, 13' USDM Impreza STI

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2549mi, Track Day and at least 100 AutoX runs. ("Spirited Driving")

Pennzoil Ultra,not PUP
Filled with Pennzoil Ultra again.
OEM Oil Filter
Replaced Air Filter before the 2549mi run.
100% Stock Car




The previous 1319 result was just a sample pumped through the dipstick tube and was not replaced. PU 5w30 as well.
 
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Coolant leak causing the heavy iron ppm?

I may be wrong, but someone will correct me I am sure.
 
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If it was a coolant leak, you see it under glycol, which is 0.

The engine was given a proper beat down so I would expect higher iron content. Sorta still wearing in. The engine mount broke along with the dogbone, so it was clunking for bit
wink.gif
. Maybe loosened up some particles HA!
 
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Many SUBARU turbo enthusiasts seem to think that using a 5w30 is asking for an engine failure...and claim a 40 grade is a better choice...

I think detonation is the culprit myself, but thicker oil MAY ? give a little extra protection, especially if the oil has thinned out .

Are you checking oil temps at all...given the racetrack type enviro you frequently participate in...?

The Subaru 2.5 l. turbo is particularily hard on oil, and has been known to shear down. 5w30 "Resource Conserving" oils very quickly into a mid 20 grade...

Not sure if PU 5w30 is RC or not... there is diesel version of PU 5w30 that is very
robust... PU Euro L I believe.

Watch the oil temps, and step up a grade if oil temps are rising during track / auto x runs... hot oil gets thinner, and too thin an oil can grenade an engine.

Google Wrx spun bearing for fun...
 
PU 5w30 is at the thin end of the thirty grade. It's just barely hanging in the 30 range by 0.1 cSt.

How about mixing in 50% PUE 5w40? Or even straight PUE 5w40.
 
Looks like a great report to me considering the usage. Keep doing what you're doing.

"How about mixing in 50% PUE 5w40? Or even straight PUE 5w40." - by A_Harman..................might not be a bad plan.
 
Looks like a pretty good showing for PU considering the usage. I'm pretty surprised it's not Xw-20, though it's just barely 30wt. Do you monitor your oil temps on track?

Typical high-copper of oil-cooler equipped Subaru engines.

What oil are you going to use when you run out of PU? PUP? PPPP? Got a big stash of the old PU?
 
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Many SUBARU turbo enthusiasts seem to think that using a 5w30 is asking for an engine failure...and claim a 40 grade is a better choice...

I think detonation is the culprit myself, but thicker oil MAY ? give a little extra protection, especially if the oil has thinned out .

Are you checking oil temps at all...given the racetrack type enviro you frequently participate in...?

The Subaru 2.5 l. turbo is particularily hard on oil, and has been known to shear down. 5w30 "Resource Conserving" oils very quickly into a mid 20 grade...

Not sure if PU 5w30 is RC or not... there is diesel version of PU 5w30 that is very
robust... PU Euro L I believe.

Watch the oil temps, and step up a grade if oil temps are rising during track / auto x runs... hot oil gets thinner, and too thin an oil can grenade an engine.

Google Wrx spun bearing for fun...


enthusiasts claim to be the loudest voice on the internet too, while the manufacturer decided on stamping 5w30 onto the cap on my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT.
 
Oil Temp 220F-230F, defi gauge. Pressures were just fine as well.

If there's anything I'm worried about it's the cooling. Water temp got to the 3rd long tick mark, which is just a bit too hot for the system but stabilized. This was towards the end of just a 10min session. If there's anything I'd do, it would be upgrade the radiator, or do something to make cooling better. Running a higher viscosity is backwards to me, why put more heat into the engine when it can't handle stock power on a "lite" 5w30. The only reasons would be too low of a pressure, and metal-on-metal contact which is not the case.

I'm out of PU5w30, and I dont know what I want to run just yet. I'm sticking with 5w30 though for performance and cooling reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: Toombs
Oil Temp 220F-230F, defi gauge. Pressures were just fine as well.


That seems quite low, which is good to see. Others seem to be in the 260F range. BRZ guys report temps about there as well.

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If there's anything I'm worried about it's the cooling. Water temp got to the 3rd long tick mark, which is just a bit too hot for the system but stabilized. This was towards the end of just a 10min session. If there's anything I'd do, it would be upgrade the radiator, or do something to make cooling better. Running a higher viscosity is backwards to me, why put more heat into the engine when it can't handle stock power on a "lite" 5w30. The only reasons would be too low of a pressure, and metal-on-metal contact which is not the case.


Careful there. Oil pressure does not lubricate the engine, viscosity does. Oil pressure is simply an indirect indication of viscosity. The EJ engine's propensity for spun rod bearings is the reason many of us recommend Xw40 oils for these cars when used in anger. Slight misalignments in the bearings likely contribute. If your engine happens to be at the center of the tolerance range, count yourself lucky and raise a glass of 5w30. But remember, until 2011 Subaru recommended Xw40 or even 10w50 for "High temperatures or heavy use".

I wouldn't upgrade the radiator, I'd duct it to make sure any air that comes in the bumper has no choice but to pass trough the radiator. An out duct would be even more effective, but it's harder to make. Vented hood or fenders are the typical options. Venting a Subaru hood with the IC scoop in the way is tricky. The OEM radiator has plenty of cooling capacity to keep the engine cool at racetrack speeds, the problem is making sure enough air goes through it.

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I'm out of PU5w30, and I dont know what I want to run just yet. I'm sticking with 5w30 though for performance and cooling reasons.


With the seeming downgrade to PUP it's a conundrum. Maybe PPPP? Maybe Edge FST? If you want to stay with resource conserving 5w30 those seem the best options. Otherwise, M1 High Mileage, Motul X-Clean, or M1 ESP if you're willing to step up to a slightly thicker 5w30. I've got ESP in my WRX right now and there's a couple of really good UOAs over on NASIOC with it.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Since you have your UOA thru Dyson. Have you received consultation from Dyson?


Yes I have, but sorry it is proprietary.

Quote:
The EJ engine's propensity for spun rod bearings is the reason many of us recommend Xw40 oils for these cars when used in anger. Slight misalignments in the bearings likely contribute. If your engine happens to be at the center of the tolerance range, count yourself lucky and raise a glass of 5w30.


From datalogging the car, I can tell you that it does have some knock to it on 93 octane, so there can be truth to detonation causing issues, but that's the point of the ECU to learn the knock and account for it. My goal is to get that timing back and maximize performance within a reasonable manner. (Spending $120 dollars on a tank of 100 octane is not reasonable! lol). But this is kinda the approach I'm taking with the car, maximize performance of car with experimenting with oil, fuel, fuel/additives, etc. And I've set myself within a box of what I can work in, because I would like to maintain my "Stock" classing.

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I wouldn't upgrade the radiator, I'd duct it to make sure any air that comes in the bumper has no choice but to pass trough the radiator. An out duct would be even more effective, but it's harder to make. Vented hood or fenders are the typical options. Venting a Subaru hood with the IC scoop in the way is tricky. The OEM radiator has plenty of cooling capacity to keep the engine cool at racetrack speeds, the problem is making sure enough air goes through it.


Upgrading the radiator would take me out of stock classing for some events, so it would be a last resort. I would prefer the cheaper routes, so good point about getting the duct. I can also run more water than antifreeze, so these are good cheap solutions to try but it probably wont do much. It seems the GR radiators are a bit of a downgrade compared to older models. There are threads on iwsti of other stock STI guys overheating on the track.


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With the seeming downgrade to PUP it's a conundrum. Maybe PPPP? Maybe Edge FST? If you want to stay with resource conserving 5w30 those seem the best options. Otherwise, M1 High Mileage, Motul X-Clean, or M1 ESP if you're willing to step up to a slightly thicker 5w30. I've got ESP in my WRX right now and there's a couple of really good UOAs over on NASIOC with it.


ESP is on my list of oils to use, it's a good one no-doubt. I actually have a stock pile of PPPP due to the shell fuel rewards. It's pretty much allowed me to get the oil for free all said and done after fuel discounts. I would take containers to shell, to fill after getting my tank maxed, so I would get the max 20 gallon discount. Plan is for PPPP to go into the RS, but it's got RLI oil. Waiting a bit before draining that liquid gold out. 10k~ mi OCI
 
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Originally Posted By: Toombs
From datalogging the car, I can tell you that it does have some knock to it on 93 octane, so there can be truth to detonation causing issues, but that's the point of the ECU to learn the knock and account for it. My goal is to get that timing back and maximize performance within a reasonable manner. (Spending $120 dollars on a tank of 100 octane is not reasonable! lol). But this is kinda the approach I'm taking with the car, maximize performance of car with experimenting with oil, fuel, fuel/additives, etc. And I've set myself within a box of what I can work in, because I would like to maintain my "Stock" classing.


Since you're in Illinois I'll assume that's 93 octane E10. My car runs noticeably better on pure gasoline. Here in MN 93 is a bit rare, BP carries it in the Twin Cities, but out state 91 is often the best you can find. My data logs show similar behavior to yours when adjusted for the difference between WRX and STI. A little knock on 91 E10, none on 93 E10, none on 92 E0. My available fuel is one reason I went with the 2007 WRX instead of the 2008 STI (I've got a wagon). I'm assuming you're using some kind of MMT octane booster (Torco or similar), that seems a sensible solution. A few gallons of race fuel to top off a tank of 93 might give similar results.

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ESP is on my list of oils to use, it's a good one no-doubt. I actually have a stock pile of PPPP due to the shell fuel rewards. It's pretty much allowed me to get the oil for free all said and done after fuel discounts. I would take containers to shell, to fill after getting my tank maxed, so I would get the max 20 gallon discount. Plan is for PPPP to go into the RS, but it's got RLI oil. Waiting a bit before draining that liquid gold out. 10k~ mi OCI.


The funny part about M1 ESP is it might be thicker than M1 0w40 after a few thousand miles. The UOAs I've seen so far indicate it's extremely shear stable. It'll still be a while, but I'll post my ESP UOA here when I get it.
 
Water level is high.you do warm up and cool down car right?might want o check where that water is coming from.ethanol is good for number but i would stay away from it for race situation.it doesnt burn the same way and is harsh on everything .buy good old school race gas 0% ethanol
 
If you have a recommendation from Mr. Dyson, I would disregard other suggestions on brand, grade, filter, OCI, and ect. Just follow the consultation you paid for.
 
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