Wix 51042 vs. AC Delco PF 46 vs. Pure One PL14006 - My Analysis

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 31, 2003
Messages
418
Location
OR
Today I changed oil in my '05 GXP and decided to disect the old Pure One PL14006. Then I decided it wouldn't do any good to compare it to itself so I dissected a brand new PF46 and 51042 in the name of science.

Media:
- Wix: 1.5" X 60" = 90 sq inches. Pleats are 3/4" wide
- Pure One: 2" X 60" = 120 sq inches. Pleats are 1/2" wide
- AC Delco: 1.75 X 52" = 91 sq inches. Pleats are 1/2" wide.

In this category I'd say the Pure One design easily wins.

Anti-drainback valve:
- Wix: Silicone valve contacts smooth base, valve is reinforced with ridges on the top, probably so it won't distort.
- Pure One: Silicone valve contacts raised lip on baseplate.
- AC Delco: Nitrile valve on smooth base.

In this category I'd say it's a tie between Wix and Pure One but the PureOne might have a slight edge for sealing.

Quality of filter core:
- Wix: Metal, some glue voids but on output side and outside of media's inner edges - probably not a big deal as the media edges are well attached.
- Pure One: Metal, no glue voids
- AC Delco: Metal, no glue voids

The Pure One just looks like a higher quality core assembly.

Bypass Valve:
- Wix: Coil spring
- Pure One: Clicker
- AC Delco: Clicker
The AC Delco clicker looked weaker then the Pure One. The Wix coil spring looked the best but since it's longer it takes away from what could be wider filter media. Strictly based on valve design, the Wix looks better.

Overall Outer Can/Baseplate Construction:
The three are all very similar. I'd say it's a tie in this category but some of the Pure One's blue finsh was comming off at the base crimp.

Price:
-Wix: About $4 from Filter1.com
-Pure One: About $4.50 on sale at local retail
-AC Delco: About $4 at AutoZone

Summary:
- I'm going to say the PureOne is the best filter in this comparison largely due to it's media. It also has an excellent anti-drainback valve. Wix looks to be a close second followed by AC Delco.
 
Hey Dave,
Correct me if I am wrong, looks like the PureOne has the combo ADBV and BPV similar to the E-Cores.
dunno.gif
 
Those don't have bypass valves, clicker or otherwise..

Those springs (coil or leaf type either one) are just tensioner springs..(tension to hold the element tight in the can)
 
quote:

Originally posted by ZR2RANDO:
Those don't have bypass valves, clicker or otherwise..

Those springs (coil or leaf type either one) are just tensioner springs..(tension to hold the element tight in the can)


Silly me... You are right. It is one of them GM setups.
PL14006
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Height: 3.36
Type of Filter: Spin-on
Threads: 13/16-16


Thread Pitch: UNC-2B
Relief Valve P.S.I.: None
O.D.: 2.98
 
Wow! This is shocking (visions of Eugene Levy as he finally got Darrel Hannah soaked in Splash)

Behold the CLICKER!!!!!

 -


I was totally unaware (I'm not a connoisseur (spl?)) of PureOne filters having the infamous "clicker" (cue suspense music
shocked.gif
) This is something that I wouldn't normally associate with its name.


How does this change our impression of PureOne??
confused.gif


[ July 16, 2005, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]
 
Thanks for clarifying. I wasn't sure whether or not these springs somehow compress in high pressure situations routing oil right into the outlet hole area.

Am I missing any other design element that could differentiate the quality and effectiveness of these filters???

What does everyone think of the Wix vs. PureOne antidrainback valve? The Wix has some reinforcements on the top surface and I assume these are to prevent distortion. The PureOne has a raised ridge on the base and the valve also has a slight lip that contacts this ridge. It seems like sealing might be a bit better with the PureOne but I could be wrong.


This was my first filter autopsy.

quote:

Originally posted by ZR2RANDO:
Those don't have bypass valves, clicker or otherwise..

Those springs (coil or leaf type either one) are just tensioner springs..(tension to hold the element tight in the can)


 
This is a great example of how fiction becomes fact.

Someone want to tell me what grade of filter media each of those elements contains? That alone has a major impact on how efficient a filter is. more so than the number of square inches of media.

[ July 18, 2005, 07:43 AM: Message edited by: Pete C. ]
 
Well, Pete, I want to tell you .....but it's classified. If I told you ...I'd have to kill you.

That's something I'm not prepared to do. Now if you find out on your own, I can let that slide...
grin.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by ZR2RANDO:
Those don't have bypass valves, clicker or otherwise..

Those springs (coil or leaf type either one) are just tensioner springs..(tension to hold the element tight in the can)


For once we agree.

On the other hand, I am still waiting for more real evidence that clickers are a problem.
 
“On the other hand, I am still waiting for more real evidence that clickers are a problem.”

I hope you aren’t waiting on me. I have already explained why I won’t use them. I’m not going to use one just to please you either. If you feel so strongly that there is nothing wrong with them, then use them. I have my reasons why I won’t use them, you should have your own reasons why you WILL use them.

I said this on July 7-

My personal take on the “clicker” design bypass is the following:
1 I have never had a problem with one personally because I have never used one.
I didn’t, and still don’t, like the design so I use other brands of filters for my application that has an internal bypass.
2 I don’t like bypass valves on the closed end of a filter.
3 That “clicker” type valve would behave different when the oil is hot or cold due to metal expansion when hot. I believe it will flex less when cold (particularly winter time cold, not just normal room temp..), which is actually when it is likely to be needed the most.
4 The design only allows bypass oil to bypass through those holes in an open or shut situation, on/off so-to-speak, never good in any hydraulic flow situation, and I’m not sure at all that it allows sufficient bypass flow even when it is open. Progressive spring tensioned bypasses at the inlet end of the filters are to me a MUCH better design.
5 Any type of debris could easily get caught between the 2 pieces of metal and allow that bypass to bypass all the time (I understand it could be a minor amount…)

The reasons that I have for not liking that design are more than sufficient for me to not use that design. If you (or anybody else who feels the need to use that design regardless of any reason other than the fact that it is cheap) want to use it, go ahead. There are too many better-made alternatives in the same cost range for me to worry about using an obviously bad (cheap/marginal) design.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top