Hey BITOG.
Any harm to the motor by putting in 0W20 instead of 5W30?
Thanks!
Any harm to the motor by putting in 0W20 instead of 5W30?
Thanks!
Last edited:
0w20 Synthetic instead of 5W30?
- Thread starter K23Turbo
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As long as you can maintain sufficient hot oil pressure most engines will tolerate a lower grade well. DR Hass was using Redline 5w20 in his Lamborghini which is basically a 5w30 but the engine was specified for 10w60 iirc and his uoas were fine.
What is the specific application before we go further?
What is the specific application before we go further?
I think some more information would be used to.
But as 901Memphis said, the only way to make sure is to monitor the oil pressure you see when the engine is hot and compare it to the manufacturer's specification.
Chances are it'll be OK, but it can't be guaranteed.
But as 901Memphis said, the only way to make sure is to monitor the oil pressure you see when the engine is hot and compare it to the manufacturer's specification.
Chances are it'll be OK, but it can't be guaranteed.
2014 Evo X GSR. Butt dyno feels smooth but a little bit sluggish. Could be just my imagination. Can't say I really feel a difference in acceleration as compared to before the OC. Just a little smoother.
Originally Posted By: K23Turbo
Hey BITOG.
Any harm to the motor by putting in 0W20 instead of 5W30?
Thanks!
Great post (just kidding)
How can ANYONE make a recommendation without knowing the actual application? Try giving us just a smidgeon more information and maybe you can get a more informed answer.
Without any further information from you, I say why stop at 0W20? Thinner must be better, right? Keep going thinner. Try this 0W5 racing oil available from redline and report back in 10K miles with UOA.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=11&pcid=1
Edit: I see you added the application seconds before I posted.
Hey BITOG.
Any harm to the motor by putting in 0W20 instead of 5W30?
Thanks!
Great post (just kidding)
How can ANYONE make a recommendation without knowing the actual application? Try giving us just a smidgeon more information and maybe you can get a more informed answer.
Without any further information from you, I say why stop at 0W20? Thinner must be better, right? Keep going thinner. Try this 0W5 racing oil available from redline and report back in 10K miles with UOA.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=11&pcid=1
Edit: I see you added the application seconds before I posted.
Originally Posted By: K23Turbo
2014 Evo X GSR. Butt dyno feels smooth but a little bit sluggish. Could be just my imagination. Can't say I really feel a difference in acceleration as compared to before the OC. Just a little smoother.
It is your imagination butt dyno's should be calibrated twice a day.
2014 Evo X GSR. Butt dyno feels smooth but a little bit sluggish. Could be just my imagination. Can't say I really feel a difference in acceleration as compared to before the OC. Just a little smoother.
It is your imagination butt dyno's should be calibrated twice a day.
I probably would stick with the specified 5w30 grade for that highly modified turbo engine. If you want to experiement you could start slow by replacing 1 or 2 quarts of 5w30 with some TGMO 0w20.
That's an expensive turbo that's going to heat up the oil. I sure wouldn't.
Yeah, go for it!
As long as oil pressure is 'there' and bulk temps are in control, then WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO IT!? Might even try blending 0w20 with some paint thinner, don't worry about the NOACK, paint thinner burns real clean, no deposits just make sure your PCV is operating correctly....
(whistling bomb sound)
As long as oil pressure is 'there' and bulk temps are in control, then WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO IT!? Might even try blending 0w20 with some paint thinner, don't worry about the NOACK, paint thinner burns real clean, no deposits just make sure your PCV is operating correctly....
(whistling bomb sound)
Maybe, if its hot a 5w20? I think in this heat a lil bit of weight can hurt. Maybe get the best of both 0w30?
You may like to experience mixing Mobil 1 0W40 with 0W20, first try 60% 0W40 40% 0W20 to have a fairly thick 0W30, then try 30% 0W40 70% 0W20 to get thin 0W30.
Do they not sell the recommended 5W30 oil for your engine in your town?
Hey guys(and gals if any), thanks for all the tips.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
Originally Posted By: K23Turbo
Hey guys(and gals if any), thanks for all the tips.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
It took 15 or so posts to understand what the query was about.
A dealer mix up perhaps. Check with Mitsubishi/Dealer if 0w-20 is fine in your vehicles engine, and get this in writing.
If the oil grade is not correct, then the dealer should provide a free of cost oil change with the correct grade.
Whilst you are talking to the dealer make sure the correct oil filter was used as well otherwise this will need to be changed as well.
Hey guys(and gals if any), thanks for all the tips.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
It took 15 or so posts to understand what the query was about.
A dealer mix up perhaps. Check with Mitsubishi/Dealer if 0w-20 is fine in your vehicles engine, and get this in writing.
If the oil grade is not correct, then the dealer should provide a free of cost oil change with the correct grade.
Whilst you are talking to the dealer make sure the correct oil filter was used as well otherwise this will need to be changed as well.
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More information that would have been helpful in the original post:
Originally Posted By: K23Turbo
Hey guys(and gals if any), thanks for all the tips.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
In any case, the dealership's staff is sloppy. Can they be trusted to come clean when the manager asks them which oil was put in? Or, will they just say it was a typo in order to avoid having to do the work again?
This is why many of us do the work ourselves. It'll take 20 minutes of your time and you'll know it's correct. 0w-20 is not appropriate for your vehicle. Drain it and fill with a high quality synthetic appropriate for a turbocharged application.
Originally Posted By: K23Turbo
Hey guys(and gals if any), thanks for all the tips.
Of course I would run full synthetic 5W30 in my pride and joy. That's what Mitsu spec'd for it.
It was a dealer screw up. On the receipt I got, it says Installed MZ320106. Which is Mitsubishi brand genuine 0W20 synthetic. Wether they put that or 5W30 in, I'll find out as soon as the service manager replies to me. Probably Monday morning.
I asked my mechanic, who also owns a Evo X, is this any cause for concern. He said no. Its fine. And of course his word inspires confidence. I normally go to him for service but he's 3000 miles away on the other coast.
I can say that after some driving my car feels like its in economy/gas saving/well behaved mode. Again this is from butt dyno "feel". So what do I know?
Thanks again.
In any case, the dealership's staff is sloppy. Can they be trusted to come clean when the manager asks them which oil was put in? Or, will they just say it was a typo in order to avoid having to do the work again?
This is why many of us do the work ourselves. It'll take 20 minutes of your time and you'll know it's correct. 0w-20 is not appropriate for your vehicle. Drain it and fill with a high quality synthetic appropriate for a turbocharged application.
Just curious, as I have no dog in this hunt, but wonder how then that Ford specifies a XXw20 oil for their Ecoboost V6 with turbocharger if there is no turbo designed with using 20w oil in mind.
And since a lighter fluid sheds heat faster than a heavier fluid, why wouldn't the 20w be a good choice over a 30w, as long as the film strength meets the demands of the application?
And since a lighter fluid sheds heat faster than a heavier fluid, why wouldn't the 20w be a good choice over a 30w, as long as the film strength meets the demands of the application?
I have ran 5w20 in a 4cyl that calls for 5w30 in the winter time.
The oil was Pennzoil Ultra which I had a lot to use and nothing to use it in. It helped with cold starts and I did not notice any heating issues. I will do it again this winter.
The oil was Pennzoil Ultra which I had a lot to use and nothing to use it in. It helped with cold starts and I did not notice any heating issues. I will do it again this winter.
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