Mobil 1 Full Syn AFE 0W-30 - 2011 Volvo s40 -6,930

[FutureBlake]

Got my third report back and the sodium is back. I had the dealer perform the service since it's still under warranty, but I supplied my own oil for the fill. I wasn't there for the sampling process, so I have no idea how the tech sampled the oil. My hope in explaining the sodium is that he dipped the sample container in the drain pan and it had some previous oil residue from the oil they use (which I believe is Castrol).

Anyone else have a tech sample their oil and have some weird results come back? What do you think a tech would typically do if asked to get a sample? Since sodium was high in my first report, I've been nervous about it. The second report was much better and I thought I was out of the woods.

Thanks for the help, folks. I lurk here often and learn something new every time I browse. Great group!

NOTE - UOA is in order from oldest to newest - left to right (so third column is my most recent).

Code:
Date 7/8/12 10/3/13 6/13/14 My Averages Universal Averages

Total Miles 22,126 38,013 44,944

Oil Miles 7,483 8,000 6,930



Aluminum 3 4 4 4 3

Chromium 0 0 0 0 0

Iron 10 12 18 13 16

Copper 5 5 5 5 4

Lead 1 0 2 1 1

Tin 3 1 2 2 1

Molybdenum 62 76 52 63 53

Nickel 0 0 0 0 0

Manganese 0 0 1 0 5

Silver 0 0 0 0 0

Titanium 0 0 0 0 0

Potassium 2 4 3 3 2

Boron 37 27 108 57 38

Silicon 6 8 6 7 5

Sodium 51 6 60 39 26

Calcium 1,394 945 1,044 1,128 2,248

Mangesium 734 698 550 661 170

Phosphorus 784 670 567 674 741

Zinc 946 745 666 786 870

Barium 0 0 0 0 0



SUS Viscosity at 21 55.5 56.4 55.6 56 55 to 62

cSt Viscosity at 10 8.9 9.2 9.0 9.0 8.8 to 11.1

Flashpoint in °F 380 400 390 > 365

Fuel % < 0.5 < 0.5 < 2.0

Antifreeze % ? 0 ? 0

Water % 0 0 0 0

Insolubles % 0 0 0 < 0.6

 

[ChiTDI]

High Sodium numbers can be from the type of oil. Castrol GTX is one that is loaded with it. No Potassium problem, so I wouldn't think any anti freeze is present. The escalating iron numbers would raise my eyebrows.
Without knowing the oils used, it is difficult to analyze or justify a reference point.

 

[FutureBlake]

Thanks for the reply - I had no idea that potassium would also be a good indicator of whether anti freeze was present. That makes me feel better. From what I can tell, the dealer uses Castrol SLX Professional 5W-30. Lots of questions since I have no idea how the sample was taken, but if it was straight out of the oil pan drain hole, I'm nervous. My guess is that it was scooped up in the collection pan (thus had some mix of residual OEM oil, but - again - no idea.

What would high iron be a symptom of? And if you saw this on your UOA, what would you do?

The car was a dealer loaner with 10k miles when I got it. I've always been nervous that it had some pretty hard driving those first 10k miles so I might be being overly cautious...

Thank again for any help!
-Blake

 

[ChiTDI]

What would I do?
Drive and enjoy the car. Continue to monitor the oil analyses. Iron is wear from normal friction. Your numbers are low, but the trend is not stable. Maybe stay with your chosen oil and see if you establish a pattern for reference.
It is a rather new car, and I wouldn't be displeases with any of the results. They would be more meaningful if you can compare apples to apples.

 

[ChiTDI]

Oh, one more thing I would certainly do - change the oil myself.
Get someone to show you the first time, get the right tools, and you'll eliminate a lot of variables.
If not, at least show the UOA to the tech. He will be more careful next time for sure.

 

[FutureBlake]

Thanks! I do like to change the oil myself. No one treats your stuff as good as you would (already got a bit of a rounded drain plug from dealer services) - but since I've got factory service for free up to 60k miles, I've been taking advantage of it - mainly because it comes with other freebies like wipers, filters, etc.

Even when I take it to the dealer, I take my own oil so it stays consistent. I've done a few changes myself on the intervals that don't come with other things (the cabin air filter is notoriously hard to swap and they'll only do it every other internal). I've done the previous sampling when I've changed it and always make sure to follow the guidelines for the right sampling procedures. I guess that's why I was concerned about the sodium - it was always my oil (Mobil 1 full syn 0w-30) and that doesn't have sodium in the add pack. But again, I'm guessing the tech didn't get a clean sample right from the drain flow.

Thanks again for the help. After 60k, all the changes and sampling are mine! ;-)

 

[ChiTDI]

Those three samples were all 0w30 Mobil 1?

 

[FutureBlake]

Yes, they were all Mobil 1. Sample one was from the first Mobil 1 fill after the OEM oil, so that may explain the sodium. That last one was also Mobil 1, but I can't confirm how the tech took the sample. Not sure if it was contaminated in the catch pan with OEM oil or not.

 

[JerryBob]

Does your manual call for 0w30 oil? How is this car driven? Highway? Mixed?

 

[FutureBlake]

The manual suggests 5w30 but recommends 0w30 or 0w40 synthetic for extreme driving conditions. I don't often meet the extreme conditions (extreme temperatures, towing, or mountainous roads) but thought it would be best to run 0w30. What's the conventional wisdom say?

I usually run about 70% city and 30% highway. I've noticed a decrease in mpg, but chalked it up to more city driving in the last year.

 

[Sam_Julier]

M1 0W30 AFE is an excellent choice in a NA Volvo white block. A 40 weight oil is not required in this engine. In my own Volvos I'm more concerned with regular full syn changes than UOA's to delay replacement of the breather box/oil separator. My dealer wants $750 to change the breather box.

 

[FutureBlake]

Thanks for the response. You know Volvo did a recall for that PCV 'breather box' on the P1 platform volvos about 5 years ago - I'd check the web to see if your car qualifies.

 

[coachditka]

The M1 0w40 has a great track record in Volvo engines. Look at your owner's manual and you will see that it is acceptable to run year round.

I have seen many great UOA on Volvo with the 0w40. Plus it's affordable.

 

[webfors]

If you continue to pay for UOA's make sure you're not wasting your money by:

1. Taking the sample yourself so it's not contaminated.
2. Instructing and monitoring the tech who does.

AFE is a great oil.

 

[FutureBlake]

That's a really good point. I had to give the service advisor the instructions, have her pass those off to the tech, and trust that the tech was taking a clean sample. Since I would have felt odd supervising the tech, I think I'll pass on UOAs on the dealer performed intervals and just send off the samples I take myself. I only go to the dealer while their free and on the intervals where they replace my cabin filter (notoriously difficult on the late model s40's).

Does anyone else have their tech (dealer or indie) collect samples? Are they good samples? Do you do anything special to ensure they're good?

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: FutureBlake
That's a really good point. I had to give the service advisor the instructions, have her pass those off to the tech, and trust that the tech was taking a clean sample. Since I would have felt odd supervising the tech, I think I'll pass on UOAs on the dealer performed intervals and just send off the samples I take myself. I only go to the dealer while their free and on the intervals where they replace my cabin filter (notoriously difficult on the late model s40's).

Does anyone else have their tech (dealer or indie) collect samples? Are they good samples? Do you do anything special to ensure they're good?


I personally only trust samples I take myself, with a hot engine, mid-stream, in a clean bottle. Hard to trust anything else.

I think you have it right on doing UOA's when you take it yourself and skipping the rest. I would also make sure to document the exact oil brand and viscosity that you're getting with the free oil changes as that will be relevant when you get your UOA.

 

[FutureBlake]

Again, spot on. I bring my own oil when I want to take advantage of the dealer changes. But that brings up another potential problem - I'm never sure that the tech uses that oil. It's not that I suspect foul play, but I know they're often in a hurry and it's that communication between the service advisor and the tech that I'm never sure of...