2000 Saturn SL2 Buring Oil, a Cheap$ Fix ?

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I noticed a few weeks ago my 2000 Saturn SL2 is starting to have a small amount of noticeable Oil Smoke from the Exhaust.

I do know it is a common problem of Saturns to burn oil. I do not know what part of the Engine is the Problem. My SL2 is a DOHC 4-Cylinder 1.9Liter.

Is there a Cheap$ Fix to this such as an Oil Additive or Special Oil ?

Thanks in Advance
 
Well when you say "fix" a rebuild will do but depending on your mechanical capability it can be expensive.

Oil & additives won't be a fix.

You can try "snake" oils, no idea if they work, I just rebuild my engines if they burn oil because I dislike oil burning to another level.
 
Try running Mobil 1 Turbo diesel or Shell T6 5W-40 for 500-1000 miles.

Lots of detergents in these oils, may unclog the rings, which is the problem.
 
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Originally Posted By: Scanoe
I noticed a few weeks ago my 2000 Saturn SL2 is starting to have a small amount of noticeable Oil Smoke from the Exhaust. I do know it is a common problem of Saturns to burn oil. I do not know what part of the Engine is the Problem. My SL2 is a DOHC 4-Cylinder 1.9Liter. Is there a Cheap$ Fix to this such as an Oil Additive or Special Oil?

You might try adding Molybdenum Disulfide to your oil - a product like Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti Friction 2781 or Mister Moly Engine Oil Supplement. Both products are sub-micron size MoS2 particles in an oil suspension. Over time (maybe 500 miles), the MoS2 will attach itself to your rings and cylinder walls creating a better seal and thereby reducing oil consumption past the rings. There are other benefits - read the Liqui Moly product page - but reduced oil consumption is a likely result. Follow the label directions - basically 1 bottle per oil change. You will need to continue using it - although you may be able to reduce the dosage - perhaps to 1/2 bottle of L-M Anti Friction per oil change. Some of it drains out with an oil change - some stays behind. This product is very dark gray in color - almost black - and will turn your oil a similar color.

Most NAPA stores stock the Liqui-Moly product (or they can order it) or buy it online. You may be able to buy a similar product in 4-oz one-use tubes under the Dow-Corning trade name Molykote from a local VW dealer.
 
Lubromoly motor oil saver is one of the very few additives I would put in my oil hole for something like this. If thus doesn't work you can minimize consumption by moving up to a 10w40 high mileage like Maxlife or Defy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U4QILS?pc_redir=1402649160&robot_redir=1

Running a synthetic might not be a bad idea either if you can't find the motor oil saver. Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula for $25 per 5 quart jug at Walmart would be a perfect yearly fill for Minnesota and should burn slower than 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Lubromoly motor oil saver is one of the very few additives I would put in my oil hole for something like this. If thus doesn't work you can minimize consumption by moving up to a 10w40 high mileage like Maxlife or Defy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U4QILS?pc_redir=1402649160&robot_redir=1

To avoid any (more) confusion, the Lubro-Moly folks changed their name to Liqui-Moly a few years ago. Same company, same products, new name. Some of the 'old name' products are still for sale.

'High mileage' oils may help - they also contain additives which might aid in reducing oil consumption.

I'm not sure what weight(s) oil is recommended for your vehicle, but try to stay with it. If you use a heavier oil weight in the hopes of reducing oil usage, it simply makes your engine less efficient. It might be cheaper to keep adding oil.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Lubromoly motor oil saver is one of the very few additives I would put in my oil hole for something like this. If thus doesn't work you can minimize consumption by moving up to a 10w40 high mileage like Maxlife or Defy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U4QILS?pc_redir=1402649160&robot_redir=1

Lubro-Moly/Liqui-Moly Motor Oil Saver is very good at reduce/stop small leak, it stops a leak in my E430 after 300-400 miles. It costs about $6-7 at NAPA so it's cheap enough to try.
 
If its leaking past the rings a thorough clean might unstuck them, if the leak is past the valve stem seals you need to rebuild/replace your head.

Does it smoke more at startup, or do you see the smoke when driving along and then quickly open the throttle?
 
What about "Restore"? Its supposed to seal scratches and grooves in cylinder walls.Kind of a last chance type product.
 
Nothing short of a rebuild will fix a fixed orfice pcv and a 15 40 will slow it down. It's very common and itll run like that indefinitely.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
What about "Restore"? Its supposed to seal scratches and grooves in cylinder walls.Kind of a last chance type product.


Restore will plug the filter with soft metals, which might band aid the problem, but the oil burning isn't life threatening unless ran low.
 
+2 on the 15w40. Thick won't help slow it but for some reason the 15w40 burns "better" in so far as not pulling octane, knocking, and pulling power. This from my own s-series fleet experience.

Also run a long filter on it, b/c "why not". FL400s/ P20195/ 3600.
 
Its low tension rings for fuel economy. Some also say its in part to not enough drainback holes in the piston , coking the ring lands. If you have a saturn not burning oil like my '02 id use pennzoil ultra. If its already burning oil, then a high mileage 30 wt. 10w 30 in summer and 5w 30 hm in winter. If it really starts going through it, then the 15w 40 summer. When my son's 01 needs a clutch , we are going to rering/rebearing it with a valve job.
 
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I would do two things:

1. replace the pcv valve.
2. switch to maxlife.

The car is already 14 years old. Not worth a repair and all of the snake oil additives really are a waste of $$.
 
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