Dealer crossthreaded a lug--recourse?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
23,725
Location
NH
I'll have to call, as I'm not even sure at the moment how to fix--I'm guessing the hub gets pulled? Not sure on the level of work required.

This fall I rotated tires on my truck. Put 5k on. Couple weeks ago had a TSB done, and the left front axle got replaced. Went to do tire rotation today. Three wheels came off. But the left front... four lugs came off fine. The fifth broke loose, no problem. But I need a 3 foot cheater bar to wrestle it off. Sure enough, threads on the stud are messed up.

Recourse? I can call, I can try to argue, but I'm something of a sucker. It's clearly their fault, they touched it last--and we're talking only a couple weeks ago. Unless if they pulled that wheel back in November to do inspection--and, well, then it's still their fault.

I do have a CPO warranty, so I'm hoping that, push come to shove, I'm only out another $50.

mad.gif
 
Just be polite but firm when you go in there. If I were you I wouldn't pay a dime. If you don't get the answer you want then put on a smile and ask for the General Manager or owner.
 
Sounds like the old air gun again.I swear every shop guy has visions of NASCAR like quick pit stops.I would look nutty in a dealership....using a 4 way lug wrench instead of the air gun.
 
Expect them to deny that it's fault then come around and fix it at no cost "as a courtesy" to you or "just in case" they really are responsible. A lug is cheap and on most vehicles takes only a few minutes.
 
It's not uncommon for wheel studs to get damaged. I would go in with your last service receipt in hand. Explain that they were the last ones to work on it, the stud is damaged, and that you would like them to repair it.

Be prepared for one of 2 responses, depending on the quality of the dealer:

- no problem, we can have that fixed in less than a half hour. (Good dealer)

- We have no proof you (owner) did not damage it. No dice (evil dealer :grin) Be assertive in a positive manner (not aggressive) and work them down to your satisfaction.

I'm not familiar with your model, but the Tundra forum says the front studs are a cake walk. Remove caliper and rotor, press old stud out, press/pull new stud in. No need to remove the hub, at least what I googled.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/38093-wheel-stud-replacement/
 
Both stud and lug are damaged.

Between you me and not them, I'd be ok with paying the same $50 to get it repaired. Stuff happens. Free is better, I'm peeved, but in the end, it's almost time to cook some hot dogs and start enjoying the weekend (the rain stopped, and I did get the tires rotated).

Might go to work late on Mon so as to swing in and do it in person. In the end someone has to look at it, might as well do it first thing.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
It's not uncommon for wheel studs to get damaged. I would go in with your last service receipt in hand. Explain that they were the last ones to work on it, the stud is damaged, and that you would like them to repair it.

Be prepared for one of 2 responses, depending on the quality of the dealer:

- no problem, we can have that fixed in less than a half hour. (Good dealer)

- We have no proof you (owner) did not damage it. No dice (evil dealer :grin) Be assertive in a positive manner (not aggressive) and work them down to your satisfaction.

I'm not familiar with your model, but the Tundra forum says the front studs are a cake walk. Remove caliper and rotor, press old stud out, press/pull new stud in. No need to remove the hub, at least what I googled.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/38093-wheel-stud-replacement/


Great info, thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Sounds like the old air gun again.I swear every shop guy has visions of NASCAR like quick pit stops.I would look nutty in a dealership....using a 4 way lug wrench instead of the air gun.


When you make little money, you need to have NASCAR crew speed.

I would be nice... then raise [censored] and have them replace it for free, why pay $50 ?
 
I've been removing and replacing lug nuts for 60+ years and never stripped one. In my opinion, only a dumb - {removed} sixteen year old kid working at a gas station(oh heck, they don't exist anymore) could strip a lug stud/nut.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Be thankful....I had EIGHT lugs stripped on both front wheels.

The last shop to work on it was the Honda dealership in
upstate, SC. If you want to know the specific store PM me.

Before I knew about this damage I had them do another oil change and right after that (within 100 miles, the radiator failed)


Because my last couple of visits to this place were so poor.
NO WAY was I going to risk letting them "repair" the damage THEY did...I can see a couple of stripped lugs....but EIGHT???


Last service by this $tealership was an oil change
and a TIRE ROTATION.

I would believe it was POSSIBLY DELIBERATE whether because grease monkey was mad at his boss, or well maybe they were taking their frustration out on a easy victim the customer, who would never discover the issue until the brought the car in for service again almost a year later.
 
First alignment I had done on my suzuki post lift, after I had just had all four tires off, the meth infested alignment guy went 12 for 20 on messing them up. I went back, angry, and they paid to have a local mom and pop shop replace all 20 and nuts.

The second alignment I had done after tge suspension settled at a different shop. They stripped two on evwry wheel. I checked when I got home. Called and complained, oh we will fix it...no problem. While waiting, I hear the owner complaining about having to waste time fixing an obviously OLD vehicle. Walked over, introduced myself, and handed him the receipt for the recent stud and lug replacement. He got a bit red and walked off. When I got my keys I explained he wouls lose more than one customer because of the ordeal and his attitude.

When another taller lift went on, I called a local custom 4x4 shop and asked who does rheir alignments, they replied they use a shop 40 miles away, and that is the ONLY shop who touches their rigs.

Had two alignments done...and all were perfect.

When I needed my new ac system evaced and filled, they got that business too.

As for lug nuts, I carry a 1/2inch torque wrench in both vehicles. If the wife decides to change her tire rather than wait for AAA, no danger of an over torque.

I have discovered a non hubcentric wheel to be hard on studs, even when torqued to spec.






As for your issue, find a better shop. The guys who change oil at dealerships are bottom feeders, usually with zero certs. You can howver request to meet their shop manager, not the service manager. Ask him, out of all the techs, who would he trust to work on his...thats the guy you demand every time.
 
Well, the work they did was a TSB, would have been well over a grand out of pocket (diff rebuild). No recourse really.

Actually, one of the driving reasons I want to get rid of my VW is similar. I can find lots of good VW shops, but I'm going to drive > 30min to any of them. Which isn't bad. But the corner shop has done state inspections on my VW for nearly 10 years. In that time I've failed like twice, once for emissions (which I fixed someplace else) and once for bad struts. I brought them struts and they charged $200 to swap in. I trust these guys, they seem like straight shooters.

I still have a bit warranty on the Toyota's, so warranty work will go back to the dealer. Otherwise, I do the work myself or go to trusted shops.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

Before I knew about this damage I had them do another oil change and right after that (within 100 miles, the radiator failed)

Please elaborate on how changing oil damages a radiator. Did they use 5w30 instead of 5W20?

People tend to play the blame game too much in our society. Put new exhaust on a guys truck so he can hear all the squeaks and bangs and it's your fault because "it didn't happen before".
 
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
First alignment I had done on my suzuki post lift, after I had just had all four tires off, the meth infested alignment guy went 12 for 20 on messing them up. I went back, angry, and they paid to have a local mom and pop shop replace all 20 and nuts.

The second alignment I had done after tge suspension settled at a different shop. They stripped two on evwry wheel. I checked when I got home.


In my experience Isuzu and Suzuki have a tendency for lugnuts to rust in place, and coming off is never pretty.

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Sounds like the old air gun again.I swear every shop guy has visions of NASCAR like quick pit stops.I would look nutty in a dealership....using a 4 way lug wrench instead of the air gun.


I have always used a gun to put lugnuts on. You have to start them by hand and be conservative with the trigger. My gun is only capable of ~50lbs., so over tightening is never a problem.
 
Last edited:
Yah, I had been fighting boogered front wheel studs since I took the Rat's wheels off. to fix stuff. But I got them gudentite. Fast forward 2 yrs and 3500 miles later. I'm returning home from 100 miles of fetching old BMW parts. I. noticed the steering getting even squirrelier than normal at interstate speeds. And there was a clunk like a caliper carrier bolt dropped off. Except carrier dont have bolts, they have pins. The LF hub had loosened up 3 lugs and was backing out the other 2. The splines on 2 of the studs came out of the hub because somebody stretched the lugs. T'warnt me. I use the 4 way I keep under the seat. I managed to shear one by sidewise hammer blows. The other resisted my hammering and it got dark.I came out the next morning and used an 1/8 bit on the face of the lug nut. Then I split the nut with a cold chisel. I'm glad, I didn't know what was happening. Judging from the trouble I had removing the wheel with my resources available, I wasn't in danger of losing the wheel. There was nothing I could on the road, so I drove on at 60 in the right hand lane. I would back off on the guy in front of me to avoid braking if possible. My strategy worked and I arrived home without incident. I got 20$ worth of lugs and nuts from Auto Zone and a tube of the strongest Lock tite I could find. I also bought a tub of special Ford grease to repack the bearings. The nuts thread smoothly on the new lugs. This wasn't the first boogered up area on the Rat caused by too darn tight from air ratchets.I am too cheap to buy air tools. I generally can get stuff tight enough with hand tools. I have learned not to be in a hurry when I car crawl.
 
It was a bit hard to tell from your post, but if you are talking about getting the wheel studs uber tight that's not necessary. The spec in the book is fine - if the backs of the aluminum wheels are clean, as are the faces of the hubs. Wheels can and will loosen if corrosion is present on the mating face between the wheel and hub.

And you used Loctite on wheel bolts? And the strongest stuff, the red?!? Lmao, good luck changing a flat.

Originally Posted By: andyd
Yah, I had been fighting boogered front wheel studs since I took the Rat's wheels off. to fix stuff. But I got them gudentite. Fast forward 2 yrs and 3500 miles later. I'm returning home from 100 miles of fetching old BMW parts. I. noticed the steering getting even squirrelier than normal at interstate speeds. And there was a clunk like a caliper carrier bolt dropped off. Except carrier dont have bolts, they have pins. The LF hub had loosened up 3 lugs and was backing out the other 2. The splines on 2 of the studs came out of the hub because somebody stretched the lugs. T'warnt me. I use the 4 way I keep under the seat. I managed to shear one by sidewise hammer blows. The other resisted my hammering and it got dark.I came out the next morning and used an 1/8 bit on the face of the lug nut. Then I split the nut with a cold chisel. I'm glad, I didn't know what was happening. Judging from the trouble I had removing the wheel with my resources available, I wasn't in danger of losing the wheel. There was nothing I could on the road, so I drove on at 60 in the right hand lane. I would back off on the guy in front of me to avoid braking if possible. My strategy worked and I arrived home without incident. I got 20$ worth of lugs and nuts from Auto Zone and a tube of the strongest Lock tite I could find. I also bought a tub of special Ford grease to repack the bearings. The nuts thread smoothly on the new lugs. This wasn't the first boogered up area on the Rat caused by too darn tight from air ratchets.I am too cheap to buy air tools. I generally can get stuff tight enough with hand tools. I have learned not to be in a hurry when I car crawl.
 
Originally Posted By: asand1
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

Before I knew about this damage I had them do another oil change and right after that (within 100 miles, the radiator failed)

Please elaborate on how changing oil damages a radiator. Did they use 5w30 instead of 5W20?
.


When they probably "checked" the coolant level during one of their crock of poop
"30 point service checks" to get more money out of the customer....I noticed that when I got the car back I smelled a slight smell of coolant when I checked under the hood afterwards...but it was raining out and I just figured that it was residue from them
"checking" it. I would say less than 100 miles from that service the radiator cracked around the filler neck..did the tech smack it with a tool to help create damage on an older part that was brittle to begin with? I think f'in so.

Again this was the same place that I found had subsequently destroyed EIGHT studs requiring an expensive repair!

Not to mention the hassle of it.
I'm certain that whatever the reason it was done deliberately! The rad may have been purposely damaged as well. I don't believe in "coincidences". Not like that.

You have to pull the hub off on Hondas of that vintage.
 
Plastic radiator tanks certainly don't need help cracking. I think your was a coincident or purely from the stress of pressing down and turning one last time.
 
That really sucks. Well it's 100 percent repairable one way or another maybe need a new stud as well as the lug nut.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top