A/C on my Accord

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I have had my 2009 Accord for two years as of May 31st.

Originally, the A/C on the car was great, ice cold, just great. Near the end of the summer last year, and this year, the system did not seem to cool as well as it should. At idle, the system would not cool and the compressor clutch would cycle on and off. While moving, the A/C would start to cool, but still wasn't ice cold.

This year, I took it to a Mr. Tire shop to have someone look at the system. They added some R134a and said the A/C is cooling just fine. It was a cooler morning (about 68-72) and they said if it acts up again to bring it back to them.

The A/C worked OK for the morning, but it started to get warm as the ambient temperatures and humidity increased. I took my car to Firestone a few weeks later (inspection needed) and they said the system had plenty of refrigerant in it and that the system was working OK (was also cooler out). They also said to bring it back if it happens again.

Last week I took my car to the Honda dealer, they were going to evacuate the system and refill it with R134a and dye. They must've been expecting a leak, because the service adviser came to me and said that they system was actually overcharged. They removed .25lbs of R134a and added dye to the system. They also said that the system was working great with no problems.

I left happy, hoping that this was it for the A/C work. Wrong.

The A/C will now cool, but, it will cycle between cool, then get warm, them cool. It just seems very odd. I don't ever remember this car's A/C compressor kicking off and giving me warm air. Also, the air seems very humid all of the time.

I went back to the dealer and they figure the A/C compressor is bad. They quoted me $1500 and that is way too much to not get a second opinion/go without A/C. What do you guys think? Can an overcharge kill a compressor? Do they partially fail or just die all together? Perhaps could the system still be overfilled? Could it be another A/C component failing?

I don't generally mess with A/C, but I may start too at these prices. ...and yes I'd properly recover the refrigerant. I'm not a dummy.

I'd really like to find a good independent auto A/C shop. I just don't know if mechanics are that great with A/C.

Opinions? Thanks.
 
I'm sure if you find a decent mechanic he can change the compressor no problem. Get a few quotes, $1,500 is ridiculous.
 
I would buy yourself a $10 cooling duct temp probe to really verify the temp of the air when cooled.

It would seem the 3 places you took it to did the bare minimum. Hacks!

It needs to be evacuated of R134a, tested to hold a vacuum for 30 minutes and then the exact weight of R134a (& dye) added as listed on a sticker on the hood.

How did the dealer figure that .25 lb of R134a needed to be removed?

You may also have some condensate drains plugged up.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: redhat
system was actually overcharged. They removed .25lbs of R134a and added dye to the system. They also said that the system was working great with no problems.

I left happy, hoping that this was it for the A/C work. Wrong.

The A/C will now cool, but, it will cycle between cool, then get warm, them cool. It just seems very odd. I don't ever remember this car's A/C compressor kicking off and giving me warm air. Also, the air seems very humid all of the time.

I went back to the dealer and they figure the A/C compressor is bad.

Opinions? Thanks.


They figure or did they diagnose? What should be done is after ensuring the charge amount is correct (as indicated by the placard under the hood), keep the gauges hooked up to monitor pressures while running. They will then be able to see if 1) fans are running 2) pressures are within normal range. If the fans are running and the pressures are going high hot: the condenser could be restricted not allowing cooling, or there could be a restriction in the system. They should also be testing for proper powers/grounds and commands from the ECU. I would find a shop to do a proper diag and pay accordingly for their testing.
 
^^ +1. You might have a bad pressure switch that trips when it's not supposed to, making the compressor cycle too often. More diagnosis is needed.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
^^ +1. You might have a bad pressure switch that trips when it's not supposed to, making the compressor cycle too often. More diagnosis is needed.


BINGO give the man a cigar.

Smoky
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I would buy yourself a $10 cooling duct temp probe to really verify the temp of the air when cooled.

How did the dealer figure that .25 lb of R134a needed to be removed?


I will pick one up today. Also, I have no idea how they got that number.

I guess I'll have to search out a good A/C place.

Getting sick of having to bring my own Vaseline, at least shops can provide it to you.
 
Would it be beneficial for me to hook up some manifold gauges and show y'all some video of the compressor cycling and what not?
 
how can the compressor be bad if the cool air is coming from the duct when it is running?

really, why are mechanics so inept at actually diagnosing the problem?

does the consumer have to do all the diagnostic work himself?

This guy went to three different places but all they have been doing is just taking random guesses but still raking in money.

No wonder mechanics as a profession has such an ill repute. Do we have any professional here to counter this tirade?
 
i believe that spec for that car is 19oz.4 oz over is a huge overcharge and could damage the compressor. sounds like the first guy just shot it up w\o removing the refrigerant that was still in it. the dealer would have removed the charge completly and the ac machine tells how much was removed.

does this car have a heater valve?
 
The dealer said they did not do a complete evac and refill but simply removed .25lbs as that was the amount they said was overcharged.

I do not know if this has a heater valve. Sorry for my ignorance but how would I know?
 
Originally Posted By: redhat
The dealer said they did not do a complete evac and refill but simply removed .25lbs as that was the amount they said was overcharged.

I do not know if this has a heater valve. Sorry for my ignorance but how would I know?



There is absolutely no way for the dealer, or any other mechanic to know by how much the system was overfilled without evacuating the system completely and weighing the contents. You probably ended up with an undercharged system.
Their statement alone tells me that you should either get your money back for the service, or the dealer should perform it properly this time as part of the original price.
 
Do you have auto climate control? Is it set as low as possible?

My civic and accord have a cable operated heater control valve. The civic had ac that wasn't very cold so I checked the heater control valve and it seems that the cable had stretched so the valve wasn't closing all the way when the temp was set to cold.

The cable has a clamp to adjust it on both ends, so a few minutes later the ac was colder than ever.

The cable is blue and under the hood on the firewall, the other end is under the dash on the hvac box.
 
I do not have auto cc, but the manual knob is set as cold as possible.
 
Actually I think that it IS normal for Honda A/C systems to
cycle on and off perhaps a couple of minutes on and then perhaps a minute or so off. They are designed that way for efficiency.
 
Change the cabin filter (behind the glovebox)too. Just did this with my Civic on the 100,000 mile service and the AC seams to perform better now.
 
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