In tank additives for DI
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turk I use shell gas 85 percent of the time. and mobil or exxon 5 percent of the time. Sunoco and citco the other ten percent id say. But since the car was new I also used tectron not every other oil change but atleast every ten thousand miles. I only did that because of the use of non top tier Sunoco and citco gas. Which I know now is a bunch of nonsence. Like I said now im gonna use tectron a lot more. hopefully it does the trick. PS I used only top synthectic in this car and always change my oil at the severe service too. 3,750 miles oci. I was told that can help. It didn't.
In the velosters manual it says to use tectron fuel system cleaner every oil change if you don't use top tier fuel. That's why I didn't use the tectron every oil change. I used mostly top tier for the life of the car so idk what to really think anymore.
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
Pete why would I wanna put any more stress on my car. Im sure its not good for the car to do that. Theres a reason why the car has 5th and 6th gear. Why would I wanna run it in 4th gear and get [censored] gas mileage and make the engine and tranny run hotter then need be. I know they say it will help with the carbon issue but no thanks. Ill keep babying my car. I just don't think its smart to abuse other aspects of the car for a issue that Hyundai needs to figure out. Now if Hyundai puts it in writing that its okay to do this then I might think different.
I hear ya, but 3,000 rpms isn't bad, its a heck of a lot better than 4,500 rpms that has been suggested in the past. Good luck getting Hyundai putting anything in writing. I'd use the 3M kit and a maint dose of Red Line FI cleaner or Techron and hope for the best.
Pete why would I wanna put any more stress on my car. Im sure its not good for the car to do that. Theres a reason why the car has 5th and 6th gear. Why would I wanna run it in 4th gear and get [censored] gas mileage and make the engine and tranny run hotter then need be. I know they say it will help with the carbon issue but no thanks. Ill keep babying my car. I just don't think its smart to abuse other aspects of the car for a issue that Hyundai needs to figure out. Now if Hyundai puts it in writing that its okay to do this then I might think different.
I hear ya, but 3,000 rpms isn't bad, its a heck of a lot better than 4,500 rpms that has been suggested in the past. Good luck getting Hyundai putting anything in writing. I'd use the 3M kit and a maint dose of Red Line FI cleaner or Techron and hope for the best.
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
Pete why would I wanna put any more stress on my car. Im sure its not good for the car to do that.
3000 rpm is stress?
You bought a sports/sporty car just so you can drive it like a grandma?
Alas, it's your car, so the choice is certainly yours.
Pete why would I wanna put any more stress on my car. Im sure its not good for the car to do that.
3000 rpm is stress?
You bought a sports/sporty car just so you can drive it like a grandma?
Alas, it's your car, so the choice is certainly yours.
Okay maybe im being a little grandpa ish with the car. While were on the subject since I have only three top tier gas stations near me I wonder which one would work better with tectron when I fill it up. Shell, mobil, exxon. What is nitrogen enriched anyways shell. Is it just pea. Also I know the terminal were every gas station around hear get there gas from. Its mobil gas. I know this because my brother hauls fuel. Im sure the additives are different from say mobil and shell but I was just wondering if it would be better to use the tectron stuff with say exxon instead of shell or viceversa.
The irony is that not stressing the car is actually damaging your car right now versus the hypothetical damage from stressing the car. And not just in theory, since you've reported knocking and pinging.
You can imagine even if you don't have knock, you are close to it and the knock sensors are kicking in, which must mean that at least a couple knocks happened before the sensors changed things up.
It's like in the movies where a guy won't talk because he's afraid of what his boss will do; and the hero says "your boss?, you should be afraid of me!"
If you didn't know, that's fine; but now that you're informed by your mechanic, perhaps you can imagine black crusty soot and carbon crud growing on your valves and you need to flush it out, versus the engine shaking itself to bits and you'll be more OK with it.
Also, maybe try redline or other products too. For me, even though redline is more expensive; I've found that I can use 25% or 50% of a bottle over 20gallons with similar result, so that lowers cost (premeasure it into a 2nd bottle first).
Longer more frequent treatments at lower doses might work better for your then the one time treatments.
You can imagine even if you don't have knock, you are close to it and the knock sensors are kicking in, which must mean that at least a couple knocks happened before the sensors changed things up.
It's like in the movies where a guy won't talk because he's afraid of what his boss will do; and the hero says "your boss?, you should be afraid of me!"
If you didn't know, that's fine; but now that you're informed by your mechanic, perhaps you can imagine black crusty soot and carbon crud growing on your valves and you need to flush it out, versus the engine shaking itself to bits and you'll be more OK with it.
Also, maybe try redline or other products too. For me, even though redline is more expensive; I've found that I can use 25% or 50% of a bottle over 20gallons with similar result, so that lowers cost (premeasure it into a 2nd bottle first).
Longer more frequent treatments at lower doses might work better for your then the one time treatments.
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why add additives to the fuel to reduce the carbon deposits on the valves just
as an oil catch can. This way most of the oil is captured in the catch can and not
coating the intake and valves.
i have one installed on my 2013 Honda Insight and i capture 1 to 2oz per oil change.
it was installed at 100 miles on the clock.
as an oil catch can. This way most of the oil is captured in the catch can and not
coating the intake and valves.
i have one installed on my 2013 Honda Insight and i capture 1 to 2oz per oil change.
it was installed at 100 miles on the clock.
Originally Posted By: minis
why add additives to the fuel to reduce the carbon deposits on the valves just
as an oil catch can. This way most of the oil is captured in the catch can and not
coating the intake and valves.
i have one installed on my 2013 Honda Insight and i capture 1 to 2oz per oil change.
it was installed at 100 miles on the clock.
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
why add additives to the fuel to reduce the carbon deposits on the valves just
as an oil catch can. This way most of the oil is captured in the catch can and not
coating the intake and valves.
i have one installed on my 2013 Honda Insight and i capture 1 to 2oz per oil change.
it was installed at 100 miles on the clock.
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
I've always wondered if LubeControl's LC20 and FP+, if used since new, would prevent deposits on DI problem engines.
Just wondered, that's all.
Just wondered, that's all.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
If the catch can is working at all, at the very least it should slow the process. How bad would their valves be if they did not have the catch can?
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
If the catch can is working at all, at the very least it should slow the process. How bad would their valves be if they did not have the catch can?
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
If the catch can is working at all, at the very least it should slow the process. How bad would their valves be if they did not have the catch can?
couldn't be any worse. They were still terrible in short amount of miles even using water/meth injection WITH a catch can.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Catch cans don't prevent intake valve deposits on DI engines. You can find many folks on Audi, BMW, and mini forums with photos of gunked up valves despite using catch cans. They don't even slow the process down.
If the catch can is working at all, at the very least it should slow the process. How bad would their valves be if they did not have the catch can?
couldn't be any worse. They were still terrible in short amount of miles even using water/meth injection WITH a catch can.
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