2014 Fiesta 1.0L ecoboost MC 5w20 6,952 miles

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Hi. These are the results of my first oil change in my 2014 fiesta 3 cylinder. Wondering if I should have done a shorter OCI.

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OIL MC5w20 factory fill UNIV AVGS

MILES IN USE 6,952

MILES 6,952

SAMPLE TAKEN 6/1/14



ALUMINUM 11 10

CHROMIUM 0 1

IRON 25 29

COPPER 47 3

LEAD 0 6

TIN 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 26 28

NICKEL 0 1

MANGANESE 21 3

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0

POTASSIUM 4 4

BORON 4 42

SILICON 82 9

SODIUM 2 46

CALCIUM 1914 1149

MAGNESIUM 12 356

PHOSPHORUS 782 707

ZINC 914 808

BARIUM 1 3



SUS VIS @ 210ºF 52.0

cSt VIS @ 100ºC 7.88

FLASHPOINT ºF 420

FUEL %
ANTIFREEZE % 0.0

WATER % 0.0

INSOLUBLES % 0.1

TBN 4.0


Blackstone comments:

When it comes to the first sample, it's not unusual to find some higher metals and silicon. The metals are from new parts wearing in and getting acquainted with one another and the silicon is from sand casted parts and harmless sealers used to put the engine together. It might take a few oil changes to wash this stuff out, but eventually, your samples should look better than universal averages, which are under construction since these are new engines and we haven't seen many samples from them yet. The TBN was strong at 4.0 so try 8K miles next time.
 
Wow, that's really not bad for a hard-worked turbo engine on 5w20
Looks like the factory fill did good for those miles
thumbsup2.gif
 
Wow that's a good analysis! Not bad for a turbo charged engine. Just keep doing what you're doing with the 5w20 and that engine will last a long time my friend.
 
Thanks for the input guys! I hope to drive this thing till the wheels fall off! Very pleased with the car so far!
 
Impressive UOA IMO. The engine appears to be very easy on oil, especially for a turbo. Keep it topped off and follow the OLM. Looks like Ford has a 3 cyl winner.
 
I just got a 1.0L Ecoboost, only 300 miles total so far. I'm thinking 5,000miles for first change. What oil/filter did you put in it?
 
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I couldn't edit my original post. Here's the data from my second oil change. I used PUP 5w20. I have not ever had to top off the oil.
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OIL MC5w20 ff PUP 5w20 UNIV AV

MILES IN USE 6,952 7,415

MILES 6,952 14,367

SAMPLE TAKEN 6/1/14 9/15/14



ALUMINUM 11 7 6

CHROMIUM 0 0 0

IRON 25 14 15

COPPER 47 9 2

LEAD 0 1 2

TIN 0 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 26 48 94

NICKEL 0 0 0

MANGANESE 21 5 1

SILVER 0 0 0

TITANIUM 0 2 0

POTASSIUM 4 0 4

BORON 4 52 76

SILICON 82 24 8

SODIUM 2 4 19

CALCIUM 1914 2284 2467

MAGNESIUM 12 32 127

PHOSPHORUS 782 715 632

ZINC 914 798 708

BARIUM 1 0 1



SUS VIS @ 210ºF 52.0 51.1

cSt VIS @ 100ºC 7.88 7.62

FLASHPOINT ºF 420 405

FUEL %
ANTIFREEZE % 0.0 0.0

WATER % 0.0 0.0

INSOLUBLES % 0.1 0.2

TBN 4.0 6.5


Blackstone comments:

6/1/14
When it comes to the first sample, it's not unusual to find some higher metals and silicon. The metals are from new parts wearing in and getting acquainted with one another and the silicon is from sand casted parts and harmless sealers used to put the engine together. It might take a few oil changes to wash this stuff out, but eventually, your samples should look better than universal averages, which are under construction since these are new engines and we haven't seen many samples from them yet. The TBN was strong at 4.0 so try 8K miles next time.

9/15/14
There's a lot of nice progress to talk about in this sample. Copper has improved, and other metals have come
down a bit as well. Copper is still just high enough to mark, but another improvement like this next time should bring it
right down in range. Silicon might take another oil change or two to get there, but the progress is appropriate so far. The
TBN read 6.5, showing lots of active additive left in the oil. No fuel, moisture, or coolant was found. We guessed by
"5W/20 PUP" you meant Pennzoil Ultra, but let us know if that's not right. Nice progress! [/quote]
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
Wow, 6.5 TBN after 7400 miles in a Turbo. PUP is good stuff - looks like you can go longer easily.


It is a great engine. Expect that with any oil.
 
Originally Posted By: oliveoil
What is your mileage like with the little turbo? Thanks.


It was averaging 45.5 combined since new. I've recently installed the FRPP Suspension and went from 185's to 195's. Could be that my right foot is a little heavier though! I don't mind as it make this little car the perfect balance of economy and sportiness.

http://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/fiesta/2014/whirledpeaz/278704
 
If it were mine, I'd have another crack at MC...but it's not, and you are on a good thing with the PUP.
 
FYI, you should only run factory fill for ~40 miles at most, and drive the car hard with full throttle, don't quite hit redline, and full off throttle for full engine vacuum. Keep doing this right from the get go in about 2nd or 3rd gear, or 2nd in an auto if it has 2nd gear lock (stays in 2nd right from stop), do this for the first 20 miles (accelerate - decelerate) and then just drive it like you stole it. Drive another 20 miles like you stole it and then dump the oil (ideally you even remove the oil pan and clean it, pour new CHEAP [censored] oil, let it run for a bit to flush it out, then put a good quality break in oil for a few thousand miles. This method produces the most well seated piston rings and cylinder walls for the most effective seal and in turn compression, and in turn power, and finally engine longevity. But this is still anecdotal, so do whatever the @#$% you wanna do!
 
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It does not come with an automatic option. Just more fuel for the fire about companies purposely shaving EPA numbers to sell more marked up automatics. When companies magically need to eek out max MPGs for certain trims, they are still going to MTXs.
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch
FYI, you should only run factory fill for ~40 miles at most, and drive the car hard with full throttle, don't quite hit redline, and full off throttle for full engine vacuum. Keep doing this right from the get go in about 2nd or 3rd gear, or 2nd in an auto if it has 2nd gear lock (stays in 2nd right from stop), do this for the first 20 miles (accelerate - decelerate) and then just drive it like you stole it. Drive another 20 miles like you stole it and then dump the oil (ideally you even remove the oil pan and clean it, pour new CHEAP [censored] oil, let it run for a bit to flush it out, then put a good quality break in oil for a few thousand miles. This method produces the most well seated piston rings and cylinder walls for the most effective seal and in turn compression, and in turn power, and finally engine longevity. But this is still anecdotal, so do whatever the @#$% you wanna do!


Keep in mind this is one person's OPINION, which I happen to totally disagree with. Acceleration & deceleration are important to seat the rings but running a new engine to almost redline is ridiculous
 
Say if you have a 7000rpm redline, run it to 5500 - 6000rpm for the breakin. A hard break-in like I described is one of the best things you can do for a new engine, it will run cleaner, stronger, and last longer.
 
if it is a 2 cycle yes-run it hard to begin with.
If I was able to post the owner's manual section from my daughter's car I would.
It indicates a 1000 mile break in period with no more than 60% of max RPM and indicates a much more moderate break in procedure than you have described---basically the opposite of what you said. So unless you are a mechanical engineer who focuses on engine development, I'll continue thru my 4th decade of breaking engines in the easy way
 
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