What oil for my modified 460?

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What oil should I use in my 1970 Lincoln Mk III?
1. Not the stock engine - it's dyno'd at 570HP and 630 Ft lbs torque.
2. Still has hydraulic lifters riding on a custom cam.
3. Has roller rocker arms.
4. Completely balanced.
5. Edelbrock 2166 manifold with a Edelbrock 1406 carb on top.

The engine shop that did the rebuild says to leave the Joe Gibbs break-in oil in for 2,500 miles, then change it to a heavy weight oil and add ZDDP to it.

I was running Chevron Delo 15W-40.

I will not be racing the car, just lots of fun driving in 105 degree heat at 75mph on the highway with the A/C running full blast. Oh, and I'm sure I'll be accelerating on the on-ramps with my foot to the floor.
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What do you guys recommend?
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Oh, and I'm willing to spend the bucks on synthetic...
 
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is that corrected hp? or wheel hp?

That would be a fine candidate for RTS 5w40 or many mixed fleet oils.
 
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1. Pay attention to the break in period.

2. If the 2nd oil change requires added ZDDP pay attention to that also

3. After all the break in is done check out the RTS 5w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 that has been recommended. Both are incredible oils for the money.

4. The only issue that I can think of you having with a synthetic is that with a caruborator you wouldn't be able to have a extended Oil Change Interval. That being said, one does not drive muscle cars to have extended oil change intervals.

5. Awesome!
 
Your engine shop knows the clearances and valvetrain specs...so the easiest thing to do is just follow their advice. 15w-40 with a dash of zddp [if you like] seems reasonable. Get it ok'd by the shop, that way if the engine has an issue the oil choice won't be in question.

I have a friend that drag races a 454 of similar output...I was kind of surprised to hear that he just uses SAE 30 engine oil in it. No additives...his opinion was that break-in was crucial and after that any HDEO was fine for the flat tappet cam. Works for him.
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Email Blaine Balentine at Cenpeco and/or Ken Tyger at Brad Penn. Either one can set you up with an oil that you do not have to add anything to. Both guys have been really helpful to me. Cenpeco will sell directly to you. I get Brad Penn on Ebay for a good price from a guy in Michigan or one of my local dealers.
 
Originally Posted By: Hullthumper
Email Blaine Balentine at Cenpeco and/or Ken Tyger at Brad Penn. Either one can set you up with an oil that you do not have to add anything to. Both guys have been really helpful to me. Cenpeco will sell directly to you. I get Brad Penn on Ebay for a good price from a guy in Michigan or one of my local dealers.


Great suggestion. Cenpeco S3 15w-40 has a lot of zinc in it for an off the shelf oil...0.16% according to them, and I've seen ~1700 PPM on our UOA's with that oil. Their racing oils are even more "potent".
 
I'm surprised you didn't convert it roller
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Delvac 1 5w-40 is a great choice. That said, I've seen 15w-40 work just fine with a Lunatti Voodoo in an SBC, which is probably far more aggressive than the bumpstick you are running so I don't know why you are being recommended to use a ZDDP additive.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I'm surprised you didn't convert it roller
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Delvac 1 5w-40 is a great choice. That said, I've seen 15w-40 work just fine with a Lunatti Voodoo in an SBC, which is probably far more aggressive than the bumpstick you are running so I don't know why you are being recommended to use a ZDDP additive.



No kidding but whatever.



Op. What's you oil temps and bearing clearances,as well as oil pressure and what are the minimum pressures you need.
I like the thin as possible,thick as necessary idea so why not start with a 5w-30 and monitor pressures,and thicken as required to achieve the minimums.
I really like the European spec oils in that they are held to a high standard and might be a good match for an engine like yours that may elevate oil temps when you get into the pedal,and instant pumpability is a nice feature too.
Hdeo's are always a safe bet as well. Don't get hung up on zddp additives. If you really want zddp I suggest a motorcycle oil. They are very high in zddp. M1 4t has 1600ppm iirc in the 10w-40 flavour.
And you wouldn't have to worry about potentially caustic oil because of too much zddp since the mc specific oil is formulated balanced.
 
I would run mobil 1 15w-50 with a shot of Redline Break-In additive to boost ZDDP. Or you could just run a Redline oil and call it a day.
 
Any of the three 5w-40 syns available at walmart should be perfect.

I'd add a splash of redline break in additive or hyper lube, plus some LC20 and call it good.
 
To answer a few sideline questions that have popped up:
1. Those figures are corrected, engine on the dyno.
2. It was dyno'd with that carb and the engine shop said it is more than adequate on the amount of air/fuel.
3. Didn't convert to roller because of cost.
4. I only converted to roller rockers because it was actually cheaper than obtaining new original rocker arms.
5. Engine shop says to run a thick oil.

Right now I'm leaning towards running the Amsoil Z-Rod 20w-50. It seems to have all the right ingredients and I already buy Amsoil for my truck.
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
To answer a few sideline questions that have popped up:
1. Those figures are corrected, engine on the dyno.
2. It was dyno'd with that carb and the engine shop said it is more than adequate on the amount of air/fuel.
3. Didn't convert to roller because of cost.
4. I only converted to roller rockers because it was actually cheaper than obtaining new original rocker arms.
5. Engine shop says to run a thick oil.

Right now I'm leaning towards running the Amsoil Z-Rod 20w-50. It seems to have all the right ingredients and I already buy Amsoil for my truck.


There is nothing wrong with Mobil 1 15/50 in that motor. It actually had pretty decent ZDDP, but you could add an ounce of Redline break in additive, per quart.
 
Sasiverbullet,

Don't worry about the "needs a bigger carb" folks. Generally speaking, the engine will be snappier and more responsive with the smaller carb than the larger one. Plus the a/f will be more consistent.

You may lose a couple of ultimate top end HP but these were never meant to be revved hard anyways...
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
To answer a few sideline questions that have popped up:
1. Those figures are corrected, engine on the dyno.
2. It was dyno'd with that carb and the engine shop said it is more than adequate on the amount of air/fuel.
3. Didn't convert to roller because of cost.
4. I only converted to roller rockers because it was actually cheaper than obtaining new original rocker arms.
5. Engine shop says to run a thick oil.

Right now I'm leaning towards running the Amsoil Z-Rod 20w-50. It seems to have all the right ingredients and I already buy Amsoil for my truck.


There is nothing wrong with Mobil 1 15/50 in that motor. It actually had pretty decent ZDDP, but you could add an ounce of Redline break in additive, per quart.



It doesn't have a lot of zddp.

The amsoil z-rod oil is made for this type of application. I'd skip the additive though. Pm Pablo for the oil and pick his brain on zddp numbers for it.

And I'm certain that motorcycle specific oils are LOADED with zddp,and no friction modifiers,just in case you get stuck and need oil a mc specific oil will do and can be found anywhere.
 
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