Recommend R134a refridgerant

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
577
Location
Chicago
I'm preparing to service my AC unit in the wifes car. I need you guys opinion, what is the better brand of R134a Syn or other wise out there? The AC was blowing hot Sunday so just tring to stay ahead of the heat. Oh, I have to buy the AC manifold Guage set, no one rents them out.
 
First why does it need service? Its a closed system.

You need a manifold gauge set, an A/C duct temp probe (cheap) and some plain R134a from NAPA. No "stop leak" added to the R134a.

If the system is low on R134a then there is a leak. The best solution is to find the leak and repair/replace what is leaking. Then evacuate the system, verify it holds a vacuum and refill with the exact weight of R134a as listed on a hood sticker.

Also the manifold gauge set should be purged of air before the valves are opened.

I would dump in one can of R134a and see if it helps the cooling. If it does not, bring it somewhere.

There is some knowledge that is needed to work on a car's A/C. And some expensive tools.
 
Auto zone carries a charge kit, one large can with valve meter unit included, for about $35.

also has instructions, the key thing is to make sure the compressor is cycling, or you wont get good readings. compressor on full cold with internal recycle button also pushed.

More than likely you have a leak, so its a $35 gamble to see any benefit, but that's the whole package , if you get no result, you'll just have to take it to the shop..
 
Last edited:
+1 with what Donald and Chris142 said.

DO NOT! I repeat: DO NOT tempt fate (if you don't know how to service A/C systems properly) with those A/C in a can with leak sealers in it.

Most A/C shops use A/C refrigerant recovery systems which, if sealer is present in the customer's car, will ruin their machines, costing hundreds, if not thousands of dollars of damage (which would require downtime to service the machine).

If they find you lied about having sealers in your systems, you are in a very interesting "surprise".

Proper A/C servicing requires vacuum pull-down and hold for at least 30mins or more. Injection of A/C oil dye to aid with the diagnosis of A/C leaks is the proper way to do it.

Bottomline: you don't know how to do it, or if you don't have proper machine (or even the gauge set + vacuum pump) to deal with it, don't do it.

Q.
 
I am used to seeing cars simply lose refrigerant gradually. I have successfully saved 3 cars in my family through adding refrigerant from cans.

In the past, my father was able to do the same thing. He had a 1979 Toyota and 1987 Hyundai Excel that could be made to blow cold by adding refrigerant every few years. Mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima was a different story, that car suffered from a bad air conditioning design, and suffered compressor and condenser failures more than once.

Use only R-134a that has no sealants or additives that say they improve performance. Also, you don't need one that adds oil, because PAG refrigerant oil tends not to leak out unless a major failure happens. The only additive that your can of R-134a can have is leak detection dye.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I am used to seeing cars simply lose refrigerant gradually. I have successfully saved 3 cars in my family through adding refrigerant from cans.

In the past, my father was able to do the same thing. He had a 1979 Toyota and 1987 Hyundai Excel that could be made to blow cold by adding refrigerant every few years. Mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima was a different story, that car suffered from a bad air conditioning design, and suffered compressor and condenser failures more than once.

Use only R-134a that has no sealants or additives that say they improve performance. Also, you don't need one that adds oil, because PAG refrigerant oil tends not to leak out unless a major failure happens. The only additive that your can of R-134a can have is leak detection dye.


They probably have o-rings that are slowly leaking. Thats why I suggested to add one can and see if it helps. Don't add a second can whether it helps or not.

I know they sell cheapo kits with a gauge for the low side and a can of R134a. You really need the high pressure gauge also.

If you do not have a manifold gauge set + vacuum pump then its doubtful you have the knowledge to do it properly.
 
OP did you say R134 Syn or otherwise? If you're looking for synthetic R134 i can help you out. I have a stash in my basement that I accumulated before the synthetic version was banned. It is the best, but it will cost ya!
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
R134a is the same regardless of brand. Dont use any with sealers or stop leak


Yup, it is all licensed by DuPont, the real name is DuPont Suva. Do not use anything with sealers, if you do and take it to a shop, you will be on the hook for the thousands in repairs to their equipment.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: Chris142
R134a is the same regardless of brand. Dont use any with sealers or stop leak


Yup, it is all licensed by DuPont, the real name is DuPont Suva. Do not use anything with sealers, if you do and take it to a shop, you will be on the hook for the thousands in repairs to their equipment.


ok... I obviously have a leak in mine(low side was only reading 10psi when i started), and i did what everyone is saying NOT to do.(2 cans-18&12oz, both with stop leak, using the included low side only gauge/hose) I have a appointment @ the Ford dealership this friday to have them check out the system.

so what do they do if some one tells them they DID use a stop leak product? am i just SOL?, Do i get to pay for an entire new A/C kit for my Sable? (iirc ~$1000) or do they have a different system to handle the Contaminated systems of us "helpful Idiots" in the Gen. Populace?
 
Bring the can of junk to the shop with you so they know what you put in there.

If the stop leak is just a seal conditioner, a solvent flush and a new dryer will take care of the problem. This won't cost too much.

If a glue-type stop-leak was used it will be necessary to replace the orifice tube and leave the system open to air for a while so the glue can set up inside your car rather than the recycler. An inline filter may be installed to keep the compressor from self-destructing. The condenser and evaporator will likely be damaged as well, but still usable if you're willing to accept reduced cooling efficiency.
 
Brand of r134a does not matter. As per everyone else, buy the stuff that's just plain r134a with no additives. If you need to add things like dye or oil, you can do that yourself just the same, and at least that way, you are adding the right grade of oil.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Bring the can of junk to the shop with you so they know what you put in there.

If the stop leak is just a seal conditioner, a solvent flush and a new dryer will take care of the problem. This won't cost too much.

If a glue-type stop-leak was used it will be necessary to replace the orifice tube and leave the system open to air for a while so the glue can set up inside your car rather than the recycler. An inline filter may be installed to keep the compressor from self-destructing. The condenser and evaporator will likely be damaged as well, but still usable if you're willing to accept reduced cooling efficiency.


thanks for being debbie downer...
those cans hit the landfill about 2 weeks ago...
but they were these:
http://idqusa.com/product/345_r-134asubzerosyntheticautoacrechargekit

http://idqusa.com/product/acp-105-ac-pro-advanced-stop-leak-professional-formula-r-134a-refrigerant

since i don't have the actual cans, would printing out the MSDS's do anything for the dealership?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: Chris142
R134a is the same regardless of brand. Dont use any with sealers or stop leak


Yup, it is all licensed by DuPont, the real name is DuPont Suva. Do not use anything with sealers, if you do and take it to a shop, you will be on the hook for the thousands in repairs to their equipment.


I understand what you are saying. But,the problem i have with that is in the case of a recently purchased used car.

Using a loosely modified version of My scenario as an example: I just bought this car in Jan.
If i had taken it in before adding anything, would tell them the truth, i added nothing.
so they hook it up, and their works gets all gummed up b/c the Previous owner, (unbeknownst to me) had dosed the system with stop leak.

Why should I be on the hook for equipment when I had no way of knowing the stuff was in the system?
 
Last edited:
I DO HAVE the manifold gauge set (hi & low) plus the shop manual the car. I talked to the service department to verify that the system takes 1.5lbs. The manual also states a pump that's 4 CFMs, I can buy one of those. Leave the pump on for 20-30min. I think that info and equipment should work for the DIY. What do you guys think in addition??
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: earlyre

thanks for being debbie downer...
those cans hit the landfill about 2 weeks ago...
but they were these:
http://idqusa.com/product/345_r-134asubzerosyntheticautoacrechargekit

http://idqusa.com/product/acp-105-ac-pro-advanced-stop-leak-professional-formula-r-134a-refrigerant


Those links make it sound like the first one has a fancy oil mixed in. The second says it has seal conditioner. A flush and new dryer should be enough do get rid of these and likely hasn't caused any additional damage to the car.
 
If it's leaking a lot, there is no point of recharging it before fixing the leak. There could also be some other problem. You might want to take it to an A/C shop. A/C jobs aren't meant for DIYers.
 
That 18 oz can is a lot, save the hose cause you can use it down the road. Generally if the system is just low and something hasn't totally failed, it will be more than adequate.

But your case it was totally blowing hot, so something should be definitely off, busted or broke.
Im sure the big dealerships will get you fixed up without any fuss.

I was going to get the tranny oil changed in my wifes rav 4 112,000 miles, and firestone wouldn't do it, too much risk for them with the mileage on there machine , even though the oil still looks good. So I have to eventually go to the dealer or AAMCO
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top