fridge is broken
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Originally Posted By: Wolf359
If you actually look at the amount of electricity that an old fridge uses vs a new one, the new one would pay for itself in just a couple of years.
More like 10 years at least,IIRC.Unless it's 70s model, then your are right.
If you actually look at the amount of electricity that an old fridge uses vs a new one, the new one would pay for itself in just a couple of years.
More like 10 years at least,IIRC.Unless it's 70s model, then your are right.
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Originally Posted By: Wolf359
If you actually look at the amount of electricity that an old fridge uses vs a new one, the new one would pay for itself in just a couple of years.
Based upon the total kWh I consume in the non-summer months my fridge can't account for more than about $10 a month. So, it could pay for itself in 4-5 years. But, if it has issues, or dies in less than ten I would not be terribly satisfied. I keep an eye on my interior temperatures and keep them at Consumer Reports' recommended levels (37° fridge, 0° freezer). No way I'm buying a new one until I have to.
If you actually look at the amount of electricity that an old fridge uses vs a new one, the new one would pay for itself in just a couple of years.
Based upon the total kWh I consume in the non-summer months my fridge can't account for more than about $10 a month. So, it could pay for itself in 4-5 years. But, if it has issues, or dies in less than ten I would not be terribly satisfied. I keep an eye on my interior temperatures and keep them at Consumer Reports' recommended levels (37° fridge, 0° freezer). No way I'm buying a new one until I have to.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I wouldn't run a 50 year old fridge. The ones made in the last few years use a lot less electricity than even those made 10-20 years ago. Every few years it seems they got better and better. If you can DIY, then go for it, but I've given up buying used fridge, they last a couple of years then go out. Basic 18 cu ft fridges are in the $400-$450 range if you use a 10% coupon code at Lowes which you can find in various places online. To me even a $150 fridge isn't worth the savings over a $400 one, it's used so it won't last as long and then you have to go out, load it on a truck, get it into the house and then get rid of the old one. That adds up to a few hours plus you also need to call around and find one. Lowes does free delivery so I don't even have to go to the store, I usually just call to make sure they have one in stock and they do free delivery the next day if it is. Takes 10 minutes. I'm a landlord though so that's my take on it, I buy several appliances every year.
My mid-80s Kenmore has outlasted many newer fridges. The new ones are just built badly.
I wouldn't run a 50 year old fridge. The ones made in the last few years use a lot less electricity than even those made 10-20 years ago. Every few years it seems they got better and better. If you can DIY, then go for it, but I've given up buying used fridge, they last a couple of years then go out. Basic 18 cu ft fridges are in the $400-$450 range if you use a 10% coupon code at Lowes which you can find in various places online. To me even a $150 fridge isn't worth the savings over a $400 one, it's used so it won't last as long and then you have to go out, load it on a truck, get it into the house and then get rid of the old one. That adds up to a few hours plus you also need to call around and find one. Lowes does free delivery so I don't even have to go to the store, I usually just call to make sure they have one in stock and they do free delivery the next day if it is. Takes 10 minutes. I'm a landlord though so that's my take on it, I buy several appliances every year.
My mid-80s Kenmore has outlasted many newer fridges. The new ones are just built badly.
^Not badly, but with really cheap components. How do these appliances sell for less, in adjusted dollars, than they did 20+ years ago? Economies of scale and technological advancements in manufacturing only explain so much. Almost all of the people I know who bought new refrigerators in the past decade did not do so because their current units were worn out. So, if you are going to replace it before it is non-functional, why make it last so long?
I don't think most manufacturers are savvy enough for truly planned obsolescence. I think they just build what people want to buy for the prices they are willing to pay. When refrigerators became part of decor and a kitchen remodel required replacement of appliances the fridge became more than just a practical device for preserving food and making ice.
I don't think most manufacturers are savvy enough for truly planned obsolescence. I think they just build what people want to buy for the prices they are willing to pay. When refrigerators became part of decor and a kitchen remodel required replacement of appliances the fridge became more than just a practical device for preserving food and making ice.
Originally Posted By: afoulk
just for future reference, what is a good quality brand in household appliances these days? I havn't had much luck with frigidare window a/c units, their drain system sucks and water collects around the evaporator, causing mildew to build up in the Styrofoam duct work after awhile. My parents had an Amana fridge that lasted for 20 something years. I've never had luck with anything GE, but its been years since I've had experience with anything from them. And, as with Maytag/Whirlpool, seems many of the companies have merged. Is Samsung or LG better than the others these days?
After I had the third repair on my Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator in 11 years, I asked the repair person the same question. His answer is that it doesn't matter, they are all junk.
just for future reference, what is a good quality brand in household appliances these days? I havn't had much luck with frigidare window a/c units, their drain system sucks and water collects around the evaporator, causing mildew to build up in the Styrofoam duct work after awhile. My parents had an Amana fridge that lasted for 20 something years. I've never had luck with anything GE, but its been years since I've had experience with anything from them. And, as with Maytag/Whirlpool, seems many of the companies have merged. Is Samsung or LG better than the others these days?
After I had the third repair on my Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator in 11 years, I asked the repair person the same question. His answer is that it doesn't matter, they are all junk.
ok guys, I think i've found the problem. this time I'll start at the end. I believe the start relay/ overload switch is bad. after doing some research, it seems these often go bad in about 3-5 years (mine just happens to be 5yrs old according to the build date, we bought it off the home depot floor 3yrs ago). It seems when they go bad, they rattle when you shake them and you usually get some pieces to fall out of it. I don't have pieces, but it does rattle, and putting my meter across the top two pins (compressor side of relay), I get just over 7M ohms, almost open. I did put my ohm meter across the pins on the compressor and the start and run windings are in spec, so I believe the compressor is good, unless there is a mechanical problem in it. Please let me know if I did not test the relay properly. Going to see if I can find a local store that has it in stock. The original part # was W10197427. The updated part is W10189190.
Now for the beginning. After getting the cardboard panel off the back, low and behold, these things come with a wiring diagram. It was stuck in the condensor fan (or is it the evaporator fan?)! I don't know if this actually kept the fan from turning, but if it did, I wonder if this may have caused the relay to over heat. I did plug the fridge in to see if by dumb luck this was causing all the problems. Ofcourse it wasn't, but I did verify that the fan works. Thanks for all your help guys.
Now for the beginning. After getting the cardboard panel off the back, low and behold, these things come with a wiring diagram. It was stuck in the condensor fan (or is it the evaporator fan?)! I don't know if this actually kept the fan from turning, but if it did, I wonder if this may have caused the relay to over heat. I did plug the fridge in to see if by dumb luck this was causing all the problems. Ofcourse it wasn't, but I did verify that the fan works. Thanks for all your help guys.
They do rattle when they go bad and power surge protectors seem to prolong the longevity of them.Condenser fan is the fan next to compressor,while the evaporator fan is inside the freezer.They usually stick the wiring diagram on the fan which is no problem,AFAIK.
You will definitely find this part in stock at an "half way decent " appliance parts store, don't buy after market parts,only genuine parts with FSP on the box.
You will definitely find this part in stock at an "half way decent " appliance parts store, don't buy after market parts,only genuine parts with FSP on the box.
Originally Posted By: Azeem
They do rattle when they go bad and power surge protectors seem to prolong the longevity of them.Condenser fan is the fan next to compressor,while the evaporator fan is inside the freezer.They usually stick the wiring diagram on the fan which is no problem,AFAIK.
You will definitely find this part in stock at an "half way decent " appliance parts store, don't buy after market parts,only genuine parts with FSP on the box.
ok, I figured that was the condensor in the bottom. I do ac work on heavy duty trucks and figured a fridge works under the same principles. There is no guard on that fan though, and the wiring diagram was actually wedged between the fan blade and the outer housing.
They do rattle when they go bad and power surge protectors seem to prolong the longevity of them.Condenser fan is the fan next to compressor,while the evaporator fan is inside the freezer.They usually stick the wiring diagram on the fan which is no problem,AFAIK.
You will definitely find this part in stock at an "half way decent " appliance parts store, don't buy after market parts,only genuine parts with FSP on the box.
ok, I figured that was the condensor in the bottom. I do ac work on heavy duty trucks and figured a fridge works under the same principles. There is no guard on that fan though, and the wiring diagram was actually wedged between the fan blade and the outer housing.
I'm kinda second guessing my diagnosis though. I decided to take the start relay apart, and its not really a relay per say, its actually a circuit board inside and that's what I could hear rattleing around. Im thinking since its an actual circuit board, this may be why my resistance was so high. However, the compressor terminals in the relay have two "springy" terminals on each one that make contact with the circuit board. There were marks either worn into the board, or burnt into it. He only thing that keeps tension on those terminals and keeps the circuit board in place is two halves of the plastic housing being clipped together. I'm thinking over time, vibration from the compressor causes the wear I saw. Oddly enough, once I put it back together, it didn't rattle anymore.
looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like it could be he thermostat or defrost control module to, they control what I would consider the "ground side" in a truck. However, the fans also share this same "ground" and those run as long as I have the fridge plugged in right now.
looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like it could be he thermostat or defrost control module to, they control what I would consider the "ground side" in a truck. However, the fans also share this same "ground" and those run as long as I have the fridge plugged in right now.
Its fixed
it was the starter/overload assembly. Picked one up today and put it on, its getting good and cold now. Yes the capacitor is piggy backed onto it, plugs right into it. $58 for the part vs over $300 that Maytag wanted to send someone out to look at it. Seems the starter assembly was only energizing one of the windings in the compressor, that's why I heard a slight humming from it, but after about 15-30 secs, when it normally would denergize the start up winding and run solely on the run winding, it would quit working since it was only energizing one of them to begin with. So, after fixing the fridge and mowing the yard this afternoon, I'm currently treating myself to a yuengling summer wheat, chilled in my repaired fridge
it was the starter/overload assembly. Picked one up today and put it on, its getting good and cold now. Yes the capacitor is piggy backed onto it, plugs right into it. $58 for the part vs over $300 that Maytag wanted to send someone out to look at it. Seems the starter assembly was only energizing one of the windings in the compressor, that's why I heard a slight humming from it, but after about 15-30 secs, when it normally would denergize the start up winding and run solely on the run winding, it would quit working since it was only energizing one of them to begin with. So, after fixing the fridge and mowing the yard this afternoon, I'm currently treating myself to a yuengling summer wheat, chilled in my repaired fridgeOh, and thanks again guys for all your help
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