"New" Garage Door Purchase

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Good morning all,

I am shopping for a 'new' garage door.

Currently:
Size: 7' x 16'
Material: Steel
Windows: None
Rollers: Steel

Reason:
Paint has not held up (26 years old).
I have repainted (oil base) and that's now flaking off.
I will not repaint again. A 'new' door and I'm all set.

Question: Can anyone make any suggestions for a better door / install.
Question: Anyone regret having windows ? ? ?

Criteria:
* I will be going with Torsions Springs with 50,000 cycles instead of the Standard 10,000 cycles.
* I would like to have windows (opaque for security)
* Door will be steel, 24 gauge (.020")
* I want a strong "Reinforcement Kit" for the Door Opener.
* I don't really need the new type 'nylon' rollers.
* All other sheet metal parts are heavier gauge and (I believe) in proportion to the door gauge.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you.
 
When I looked, a decade or more ago, I learned that insulated doors are typically made with thinner metal, with a foam core bonded for rigidity. The result was effectively stronger and more resistant to most potential dents.

As a kid I adjusted the torsion springs on my parents double garage door. I later learned that torsion springs are considered far more dangerous than extension springs. That might be a consideration. Or you might just follow the "don't be stupid, and don't do stupid things" rule when you adjust it.
 
My garage doors date to the 1930s. Good wood doors. One window has a crack.


Is the garage attached/detached? Is insulation important?

I cant make recommendations for a brand, but my grandfather and I installed a door with regular coil springs once. Wasnt much to it - it came in sections and we lust took the old one out and put the new one in. then hooked up the cables/pullies and springs. Torsion springs probably need a pro...
 
I should have stated earlier:
* This is a Ranch House with an Attached Garage.
* Location is Suburbs

Overhead Door has something to fit your needs.
I'll check them out.

I think my tough choice now is Windows or not.
The installer I want to use sell doors made by C.H.I.
www.chiohd.com
 
I've had doors with and without windows. The windows are nice for letting light in but I don't miss them.

I replaced the steel rollers with Nylon and it is a night and day difference in noise. I won't use steel rollers again.
 
I had a garage door installed in Sept of 2013. It was 18 x 7 if I remember correctly. I bought it at Home Depot, brand was Clopay. A HD subcontractor installed it... did a great job (I watched).

Anyway, you could specify thicker than normal gauge steel, which I did (it was around $300 extra, if I remember correctly). I asked the installer if that was a common option, and he said heck no, and he wasn't really used to installing it. He noticed all the pieces were heavier. I believe that due to the extra heft, he didn't adjust the torsion springs correctly, but it was simple for me to adjust afterwards. People say it's dangerous to mess with that stuff, but compared to wrenching on a car, not even close.

I ordered the heavy duty rollers as well (relatively cheap, I believe) except windows... and no regrets. How often does one change a garage door?

After observing the installer change the door, there's no way I'd try to do it myself. This is basically how the installer did it.

1. Required us to clear out space (10 feet into the garage). The space in front of the door has to be cleared too. There's a pre-installation inspection to make sure you weren't tripping when measuring, if there are structural problems, etc...
2. He's got a truck with a big frame over the top of it, and he backs his truck into the middle of the garage.
3. He unbolts the garage door from the hinges and it falls on the frame.
4. He drives the truck out of the garage and then pivots the door about 90 degrees so it's aligned and ties it down.
5. Then he installs the new door, which isn't all that complicated if you do this sort of thing daily, but it's too specialized for an ordinary person, I think. Especially if something goes wrong. It's not like working on cars, which is a common activity so you can look up stuff on the Internet...

Good luck.
 
OP,
i installed a double garage door (no insulation, no windows) by myself.(after taking down the old busted door)also twice since i started wrong.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU THAT!!!
please make sure you are at least 2 and capable of lifting. your back will thank you
the rest should be simple.
make sure you have 2-3-4 clamps/locking pliers. big and working too.
take your time and have good light. like others suggested, clear anything can be a trip hazard.

oh and a safety could be 2 columns made of 2-3 5-galons buckets.
do not use just a 2x4 as a safety. it could make your door an accordion.
 
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I've installed a Clopay garage door with a friend. It was a generic install, replacing a similar segmented door in a garage with framed construction.

I considered it quite easy. With a good friend and a six pack of nice beer it made for a fun evening project that was done before dinner. Two drill/drivers with magnetic sockets (1/2"?) speeds things up considerably.

It would be considerably more awkward doing the job solo, and likely much easier with three.
 
You could probably spend anywhere from $800-3000 for a new 7'x16' garage door (door and install). So many choices. Not many of which would take a ball hit or whatever.. like your wood door will.

You must have something funky going on under the paint on your current door if the coating is failing like that.

FWIW, I have a wooden 7'x16'. Original equipment from ~1974. Last year I had both torsion springs, tube, pulleys, cables, etc replaced. It was just under $300 IIRC.
 
Go with the 2 inch blown in insulated models, the insulation makes a huge difference. I had one installed a few months ago, R rating of 17, most doors are down around 7-10. I did get windows this time and I tinted them myself, the tinting really reduces the sunlight and people cannot see in even with the lights on yet I can see out fine. I also had to get a new opener to power the heavier door, went with a battery back up unit in case of power loss. total cost with the door, motor installation removing all old equip with taxes etc was $2,300. Door itself was around 1,600, metal 2 inch insulation.. The pros did the entire installation in 3 hours, would have taken me days not having done one before. Buying from a dealer is also getting a different product line then from Lowes or Home Depot, dealers sell a better product even though the name may be the same the products do differ. I looked at several different brands and dealers before buying. You can negotiate a price also depending on the time of the year, if busy or not. for example a motor on line or from Lowes has a bar that must be assembled (2 pieces bolted together) , dealer gets you a single bar which I consider sturdier than a bolted one.
 
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One nice thing about windows in your garage door is you can line them up with lights in the ceiling so you still get light from that general area with the door open or closed.

I'll back a car in so the hood's open facing the driveway, start work in the afternoon, and sometimes finish in the evening. I like the natural light getting in then the transition to artificial isn't bad. The overhead light makes it around the hood onto the engine. You can frost the windows for privacy if you like.

Went with a clopay insulated from HD. Didn't reinforce it for the opener, and the bottom iced in place, warping the door when the opener pulled on it. We'll call it operator error. The reinforcement is a 2 foot vertical metal brace, but I wonder if a horizontal style might do better. My top door panel bent vertically... then mostly unbent itself when the opener jammed it back down next cycle.

A person can also adjust the kiddie proof knobs on the opener to not apply so much extra torque.
 
Well, I have made my decision and will contact the Installer today.
I am going with a small family business and received a good price. $1,950. (no Sales Tax).
Upgrades are:
1) 50,000 cycle torsion springs
2) 2" thick polyurethane insulation (increase rigidity)
3) Heavier #14 gauge horizontal track
4) A row of Windows with Inserts

I have given each decision a lot of thought and want to thank everyone for their input.
 
I have an insulated steel door,
the spring wire mount on one side broke and called the repair guys,
while they were here I was asking about replacing the entire door ( has dings and dents from vehicle hitting it).
I nearly flipped when the guy said $3k for a similar insulated double door.

I think I will keep what I have and just repaint it unless I can find it cheaper.
Pls post pic and final cost.
 
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