Based on your last post, it sounds like the dyno shop tuned the advance using the "total advance at XXXX RPM" method. That method really (in my experience) works great if you don't ever use vacuum advance, but results in way too much advance when you hook up the vacuum advance. I'm not saying its impossible, but those are the results I've consistently gotten. When I'm planning to use the vac. advance at all, I do the old school "set the base timing at idle with vacuum disconnected, and let total advance fall where it may. If I then go back and look at how much total advance results from that method (comparing apples to apples by leaving the vacuum disconnected during the total advance test), I have always found it to be significantly less than when I set the total advance directly.
It may be that switching to ported vacuum solves the problem, too. Hooking direct to manifold vacuum causes the engine to idle with all the vacuum advance dialed in, so when you first hit the throttle, it takes a fraction of a second for the vacuum advance to retard, and you can get a burst of pinging off the line or during sudden throttle application. And then the engine kinda falls on its face when the advance comes off :-/ That's why I've never liked setting an engine up with manifold vacuum to the advance can, and why so few manufacturers ever did so (Ford in the emissions years being one of them). Ported vacuum was almost universal pre-emissions, and in fact *most* cars remained set up from the factory with ported vacuum advance (and even using orifice valves and thermal valves to delay it even further) right through the emissions years.
I live in the Mopar world- your mileage may vary.