I am in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1981 Turbo Trans Am. It is a factory 301 Turbocharged V8. Engine is being rebuilt back to stock specs with a slight flat tappet cam upgrade and it is being converted to Fuel Injection using MSD Atomic EFI. It was originally spec'd for straight 30 weight back in 1981 but oil has changed so much I am thinking of running Brad Penn 10w30. Is this a good choice?
Pontiac 301 Turbo Oil ???????
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It would be good but pricey you could use rotella or defy.Or add a small amount of redline to boost the zinc if your that worried about it.
Defy 5w30 would be appropriate and much more affordable than Brad Penn. The Brad Penn is good stuff but pricey sometimes.
I agree with the 5W30 Defy.
I am currently useing QS DEFY 5W30 in my 1980 Firebird FORMULA 301 V8 non-Turbo(purchaced brand new) and I really like it...better than MaxLife though both are good!
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very important have that engine professionally balanced.. you will lose horse power and reliability if you don't.
If I had such an engine, I would use some conventional oil for break in, then go synthetic soon afterward.
Since you have a flat lifter cam that isn't stock, Shell RTS 5w40 would make an excellent oil because it has more ZDDP than many other synthetics with a 5w40 viscosity.
I would like to see pictures of your car and setup. I have been fascinated with what might happen if 1980s turbo engines were given a few very modern components.
Since you have a flat lifter cam that isn't stock, Shell RTS 5w40 would make an excellent oil because it has more ZDDP than many other synthetics with a 5w40 viscosity.
I would like to see pictures of your car and setup. I have been fascinated with what might happen if 1980s turbo engines were given a few very modern components.
I had looked into Defy but some had claimed the zinc levels weren't high enough for flat tappets.
Originally Posted By: JasonC
I had looked into Defy but some had claimed the zinc levels weren't high enough for flat tappets.
That issue might be overblown, but if not Defy, Valvoline VR1 10w-30 would be another fine option.
I had looked into Defy but some had claimed the zinc levels weren't high enough for flat tappets.
That issue might be overblown, but if not Defy, Valvoline VR1 10w-30 would be another fine option.
This is probably one of the "turbo oil cocking" engines
due to its age.
-Id use one of the hdeo´s since they are both sturdy and
turbo proven.
Try to find one of the xw-30 flavour or use the common
xw-40.
If you whant to thin the oil down use a good syn to dilute it with, not that i think its neccesary thou.
due to its age.
-Id use one of the hdeo´s since they are both sturdy and
turbo proven.
Try to find one of the xw-30 flavour or use the common
xw-40.
If you whant to thin the oil down use a good syn to dilute it with, not that i think its neccesary thou.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: JasonC
I had looked into Defy but some had claimed the zinc levels weren't high enough for flat tappets.
That issue might be overblown, but if not Defy, Valvoline VR1 10w-30 would be another fine option.
10w30 VR1 is some good stuff!
Originally Posted By: JasonC
I had looked into Defy but some had claimed the zinc levels weren't high enough for flat tappets.
That issue might be overblown, but if not Defy, Valvoline VR1 10w-30 would be another fine option.
10w30 VR1 is some good stuff!
I always recommend full synthetic oils for gasoline turbo engines, and the Pontiac 301 is from the era before water-cooled bearing housings, so bearing coking can be a problem if cooldown time before cutting the engine is not carefully observed. But the slightly wilder flat tappet cam makes me want to recommend high-zddp oils, which do not exist in modern full-synthetic 30-weights. That engine originally specified 30 weight. Brad Penn 10w30 may be a good choice, but it is only synthetic blend. Rotella T5 is also syn blend, but Brad Penn is higher in zddp (1400 vs 1200). M1 5w30 has the Honda HTO-06 approval, but is low in zddp (800), but you can fix that with a bottle of ZDDPlus added to the oil fill. M1 10w30 High Mileage is a heavy 30 with higher zddp (1000). Or M1 0w40 has a whole raft of approvals in high power and/or turbocharged engines, and has higher zddp (1000) than M1 5w30.
Doesn't adding zddp make the oil more caustic and potential pitting can occur.
And isn't extra zddp only an issue at break in,til the cam is work hardened?
I suggest M1 0w-40,or any other euro spec oil for that engine.
And isn't extra zddp only an issue at break in,til the cam is work hardened?
I suggest M1 0w-40,or any other euro spec oil for that engine.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
But the slightly wilder flat tappet cam makes me want to recommend high-zddp oils, which do not exist in modern full-synthetic 30-weights.
They do if one wishes to look hard enough. There is VR1 synthetic, RP HPS, and Red Line. That's ignoring the most expensive boutiques and dedicated race oils.
But the slightly wilder flat tappet cam makes me want to recommend high-zddp oils, which do not exist in modern full-synthetic 30-weights.
They do if one wishes to look hard enough. There is VR1 synthetic, RP HPS, and Red Line. That's ignoring the most expensive boutiques and dedicated race oils.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I have read that as long as zddp content is held to 1400 ppm of Phosphorous or less, corrosion is not a problem.
Interesting. Good to know.
So how much additive is required in each oil to stay under that 1400ppm figure?
Motorcycle specific oils would be perfect,in the 10w-40 grade flavours since they lack friction modifiers and are high in zddp.
For break in anyways.
I have read that as long as zddp content is held to 1400 ppm of Phosphorous or less, corrosion is not a problem.
Interesting. Good to know.
So how much additive is required in each oil to stay under that 1400ppm figure?
Motorcycle specific oils would be perfect,in the 10w-40 grade flavours since they lack friction modifiers and are high in zddp.
For break in anyways.
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I had a 1980 non-turbo 301 (4.9L) that could not get out of its own way so I pulled it and installed a 455 that definitely changed its perspective. If memory serves, there were several companies making "turbo shutdown oilers" for these cars (which had turbos more appropriately sized for a V-6) to prevent bearing coking. I would use something like M1 0W-40 or Rotella T6 5W-40 (synthetic in any case) and would be sure to allow the engine to idle for a few minutes if it was ran hard prior to shutdown. You may want to look at an "oiler" to aid in bearing lubrication, but then again, if the bearings lasted this long...
PS...what ignition system are you going to use?
PS...what ignition system are you going to use?
Mobil 1 0W40 does seem like a good choice too. Light 40 weight with high VI and loaded with additives.
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Mobil 1 0W40 does seem like a good choice too. Light 40 weight with high VI and loaded with additives.
Yup, that'd be my recommendation as well.
Mobil 1 0W40 does seem like a good choice too. Light 40 weight with high VI and loaded with additives.
Yup, that'd be my recommendation as well.
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