UPDATE: Metal shavings in oil

[Nick1994]

I posted at the end of January of the glitter look of what was in my oil after the oil change. Here is the link to the previous post: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3262736/Metal_shavings_in_oil#Post3262736

I put 4,500 miles on Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and a Wix filter. In the 4,500 miles I added 1/2 a quart of makeup and it was due for another top off when I changed it, it needs a new oil pan gasket that leaks pretty good only when I first start it up in the morning that I've been procrastinating changing. Almost 193,000 on the car now and I put in Pennzoil Ultra 10w30. I figured I'd use up the 10w30 from my stash for the summer. Some people thought from the previous post that the previous owner may have used a sealant in the oil to stop the oil leak because it was leaking when I bought it and that sealant that could have been "Restore" may be the glitter.

The chunks in the bottom of the pan are not magnetic and fall apart when you touch them, I'm thinking they're the oil pan gasket. I didn't cut open the filter this time, the last time when it had more glitter in the drain pan I cut it open and it looked great in the filter. This car still blows my mind. What do you guys think?

Clean drain pan when I started

 

[OVERKILL]

Looks like bearing material to me

 

[urrlord]

Holy Cow!
Did someone pour a bottle of higher grade radiator sealant into
the oil?Some of those have what looks like mica/fools gold in them.
Only thing I can think of.

 

[Electrajoe]

Some times the oil pan gasket will shrink with age and the bolts will be loose. Snug the bolts up. Maybe this will fix the oil pan leak/seep.

 

[Falken]

Could also be the piston skirts?

It looks pretty bad!

 

[urrlord]

Originally Posted By: urrlord
Holy Cow!
Did someone pour a bottle of higher grade radiator sealant into
the oil?Some of those have what looks like mica/fools gold in them.
Only thing I can think of.


let me amend this.

Only thing I can think of that is not really,really bad.

 

[bigt61]

Pull the oil pan and clean it next time you change the oil. Replace gasket. I wouldn't worry unless you start hearing a lower engine knock. Drive it gently until you get the pan off. Likely still rinsing some miracle sealer junk.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Looks like bearing material to me

Would the pieces be so consistent in size?

OP
That is not restore. Restore is blue and has no visible particles.
It is also not oil stop leak. It might be radiator stop leak which does not belong in the oil. Do you understand? Nod if you understand.

We went thru all this the first time around. It needs to be flushed.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Looks like bearing material to me

Would the pieces be so consistent in size?




Good question. Without a nice close-up I can't really tell if they are or not. I have however seen similar "swill" from an engine with a munched bearing. YMMV of course.

 

[hattaresguy]

Lots of copper. I'd just run cheap oil and drive it. Might last 5k or 50k more miles who knows.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

If you're curious enough to spend the money, maybe a UOA would give some answers.

 

[Hootbro]

So why start another thread when nothing was determined last time? Just gonna get the same WAG answers unless you actually send a sample off to get tested.

 

[901Memphis]

You need a uoa. Dump the new PU at 3k to get a fair baseline of wear metals.

 

[hattaresguy]

Whats a UOA going to tell him? Other than lighten his wallet. Also stop throwing pricy synthetic at it every 3k, its not a Ferrari its an old Toyota motor, save your money for something else.

The motor is either fine, and in that case don't worry about it just drive it. Or its not fine and has a failing main or rod bearing, in that case sooner or later it will start to knock. The only fix is either to rebuild/replace the motor or car. In the mean time drive it, that motor might go another 50k miles or more.

How will spending $35 on a UOA help him?

Now if this were a very expensive under warranty motor, than yes start to build a case for a warranty claim. Than I would say get a UOA right out, maybe to two labs.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Whats a UOA going to tell him? Other than lighten his wallet. Also stop throwing pricy synthetic at it every 3k, its not a Ferrari its an old Toyota motor, save your money for something else.

The motor is either fine, and in that case don't worry about it just drive it. Or its not fine and has a failing main or rod bearing, in that case sooner or later it will start to knock. The only fix is either to rebuild/replace the motor or car. In the mean time drive it, that motor might go another 50k miles or more.

How will spending $35 on a UOA help him?

Now if this were a very expensive under warranty motor, than yes start to build a case for a warranty claim. Than I would say get a UOA right out, maybe to two labs.



I didn't buy pricy oil for it, AutoZone had a clearance in December and I got 31 quarts of PU for $1 per quart.