OIL - Why do you choose what you choose...

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Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
Sometimes I wonder if this is really an enthusiast forum.

A MagLite is a significantly improved piece of engineering over a dollar store flashlight, and similar, concrete examples abound when it comes to the categories you mentioned. Even the return on investment is an issue. A police officer will likely choose a MagLite before a dollar store special, if only because he'll be replacing the latter countless times. No one's going to scale Everest using a Bratz backpack, either.

For a vehicle with moderate oil recommendations (i.e. the 5w-20 or 5w-30 in SM/GF-4 or better with reasonable OCIs), spending a bunch of money on a boutique synthetic will provide no difference in engine longevity versus QSAD, PYB, Chevron Supreme, Mobil Super conventional, Castrol GTX, VWB, or any other basic ILSAC rated lube.
 
I research BITOG and other forums for the experience of others.
I check the oil analysis results of others on this forum plus my own results.
That said, I used Pennzoil Ultra in the Camaro until a cam and other modifications were added to the engine. Engine builder insisted on Royal Purple HPS to protect the cam so that's what's in it now.
From this forum I learned Rotella T-6 should be good for the Jeep and that's in it.
Blackstone Oil Analysis Reports for both vehicles showed Ultra was a great choice for the Camaro and T-6 a great choice for the Jeep.
 
On my Toyotas I am sticking with tgmo, at least for now, as it has a good rep, I do 10k OCI's and I worry about those long timing chains. On my Jetta I buy the oil online for ease, been doing that for a while. Some day I should do a cost analysis as I do seem to do around six oil changes a year.
 
M1 for when I dont feel like doing an oil change for the good part of the year.

Dino for when i'm low on cash and need to do an oil change.

When I get my next vehicle (hopefully a newer Silverado I will dedicate to synthetic.
 
1) manufacture's spec

2) name brand

3) price

I'll run about any synthetic from sopus or Mobil M1 0-w40. I like castrol 0w30 and 0w40 too. If I can score a oil local for a good deal vs buying at Walmart, I stash it. My metric has become the five quart jug of M1 0w40. I'm not going to order oil on line, unless deal is worth it, which hasn't happened yet.

For some reason, I've decided MS5k is the choice for the lawn mower. I have other oils in the stash which would do as well, but I just bought another change of MS5k 10w30 last trip to Wally.
 
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In the beginning of my Bitog days I was often swayed by oil that got hyped here for one reason or another. That can lead to changing brands often, and it can lead to some people who hoard oil scrambling to return their stash when the next latest and greatest Bitog favorite comes along.

I now use what I consider a high quality product, which is available everywhere I shop, and is on sale often. It makes life a whole lot easier. Until someone can prove to me a certain brand of oil can consistently extend engine life under any and all circumstances and in different car makes and models I'll be very interested in trying that product. Or if there's an outbreak of bad press about an oil or filter I'm using I'll make a change. For now it's back to the way I was before I was a Bitog member. I'm sticking with one brand for each of my vehicles, currently two oils from XOM and one from Havoline. I have no current plans on changing, at least in the near future.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In the beginning of my Bitog days I was often swayed by oil that got hyped here for one reason or another. That can lead to changing brands often, and it can lead to some people who hoard oil scrambling to return their stash when the next latest and greatest Bitog favorite comes along.

I now use what I consider a high quality product, which is available everywhere I shop, and is on sale often. It makes life a whole lot easier. Until someone can prove to me a certain brand of oil can consistently extend engine life under any and all circumstances and in different car makes and models I'll be very interested in trying that product. Or if there's an outbreak of bad press about an oil or filter I'm using I'll make a change. For now it's back to the way I was before I was a Bitog member. I'm sticking with one brand for each of my vehicles, currently two oils from XOM and one from Havoline. I have no current plans on changing, at least in the near future.


Almost identical feelings here. I used to be a diehard Amsoil fan and had the outrageous engine life and performance to prove it.

Then I met BITOG and everything is now quite different. Buy most oil at the local Wal Mart and simply use a quality product as per the "buzz" heard here...
 
1. Name brand, high mileage, on sale with filter. All my vehicles between 150K and 200K miles, I change every 3 months whether it needs it or not. I just like to get under the car and just makes me feel better.
 
I used to like Castrol GTX, and don't necessarily have anything against it, but while it did hold a 91 Dodge Stealth R/T NA 3.0 V6 DOHC 222 horsepower engine together under lots of abuse and many visits to 7300RPM, it didn't hold my highly modified twin turbo one together. Then again, I was ignorant with oil in 2004 and I didn't run synthetic oil in that beast. But, on the other hand, I ran it in my grandmother's 2000 Buick Park Avenue for a few years, only to see varnish on the inside and gain a leaking valve cover. I wasn't impressed with that.

It may have been around that time I started reading on this site. Either way, I choose my oils based on the vehicle and the UOA's I've seen on other similar engines.

I was using Pennzoil Platinum in all the 4.6 2v and 3v engines in my family. Still am, but will be watching UOA's on modular motors since Pennzoil went and changed everything up, again.

My 86 F150 5.0 EFI was also getting Castrol GTX 10W-30 and 10W-40 7 years ago. My first day of trying the magical Rotella T6 5W-40 gave me freer revving, both in neutral and under load. I kept that in there for a good 5 years straight. Just this passed winter I swapped it to Mobil1 0W-40, because I still wanted a 40 weight in it, still wanted higher zinc and phosphorous levels, but wanted something thinner to start up in the -5F to 10F cold mornings we were having.

Now, none of this means I'm right, it's just why I choose what I choose.
 
GTX held my 4G63 EVO VIII together for over 200k miles. But I didnt abuse it much , to be honest.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
What is the single most important factor in your oil purchase decision?



KV40.

No one would have guessed that though
grin.gif
 
The color of the bottle I'm drawn to on the day I go to buy oil.
 
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1) price
2) price
3) price

All other factors are a waste of money. When you can get synthetic rebate oil for free or nearly free, why would I use anything else?
 
Mobil 1 0w40 for me as it's one of the manufacturer's recommendations for my Saab 9-3 and I know I can't go wrong with that oil. I guess my answer to the OP's question would be "reputation".
 
Originally Posted By: Audioquest
If the oil is what the owner's manual specifies and it's from a reputable manufacturer, I'll always grab the cheapest. Never had an oil related issue yet.


Hey Audioquest,

What does the Juke require?
 
I'm a firm believer that the way the bottle is shaped and colored has a great influence on oil's performance. For example when buying synthetic, I avoid square bottles with sharp edges because synthetic molecules are like "marbles" and will get deformed when stored in container with sharp edges.
I do the opposite for dino oil. Its molecules are like cubes, so a square-ish container is perfect for dino oil.
Color of the bottle tells me what kind of oil is inside. White black or grey tells me that the oil inside is "meh", but I'll buy it on sale. brightly colored bottles, like yellow, red, gold, etc. get me all excited and tell me that the oil inside is "hot" or "top notch", but I still get them on sale.

I've been following that rule for years now with great results...
grin.gif
 
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