Adbv Material

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Does the anti drain back valve material really make a significant difference?
I used to run Wix filters exclusively on my 360 magnum, until I found a parts store that was willing to give me a better deal on hastings Filters. For the past 2 oil changes I have ran a Hastings filter. I used to run a wix 51068 and now I run a hastings Lf196. The wix of course uses a silicone adbv and the hastings uses a nitrile adbv.
I live in Idaho where it gets 20-30 below in winter and winter is the longest season here, should I consider going back to wix because of the silicone adbv? I get charged 8 dollars and some change for the wix 51068 and I pay 5 dollars and some change running the hastings lf196. what do you guys think? My filter sits at an angle on my engine so drain back could be more of an issue then one that sits vertically.
 
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Millions of cars have covered countless miles with nitrile ones. Nitrile is also used in many OEM filters.

I don't think you'll see a huge difference, but if $3/filter gives you peace-of-mind, then go for it.
 
The nitrile ADBV's harden up after awhile which defeats the whole purpose of the ADBV being there in the first place. I have several silicone WIX ADBV's that I've saved after each OCI and they're just as flexible as the day they were new.
 
Originally Posted By: pjc360
I live in Idaho where it gets 20-30 below in winter and winter is the longest season here, should I consider going back to wix because of the silicone adbv?


I'd definitely use an oil filter with a silicone ADBV in temperature like that.
 
I normally run my oil for quite awhile because I run Valvoline synpower and I don't drive the truck all that much, I might put 3000 miles on it in a year. So I normally change the oil every 6 months if I have been driving it a lot, but recently I have not been driving it that much at all. So I might wait 9 months or even a year. Unless the oil can go bad sitting in the pan for that long?
 
The oil will not "go bad" if used over a year and only putting 3,000 miles on it. In cold weather, just try to drive some long distances at times to get the oil to full temperature to help burn off any condensation trapped inside the engine.
 
If the filter is mounted threaded end up, does it really make any difference what material the ADBV is made out of?
 
Originally Posted By: paulo57509
If the filter is mounted threaded end up, does it really make any difference what material the ADBV is made out of?


It still could if the filter's ADBV is positioned higher in elevation than the oil level in the sump.
 
The level of the fluid (oil) column above sump oil is what drives reverse flow, regardless the position or orientation of the filter. Think of a siphon arrangement.


A filter oriented sideways is actually more prone to drain through its outlet port, so in such cases the adbv becomes less impactful to keeping the filter full overnight (but still important to reducing backflow).


A main benefit of adbv isn't just keeping oil in the pressurized volumes, but preventing reverse flushing of the filter media, by keeping reverse flow rate to a minimum.


Take a filter into the cold and play with its nitrile valve?
 
Originally Posted By: TriboGeek
Take a filter into the cold and play with its nitrile valve?

By the time it's cold, it will be in position and sealing. I had a 1983 Ford LTD midsize with the 2.3 L. It ran on taxi, then I drove it for another couple hundred thousand kilometers. It had a pronounced tick at startup when a non-ADBV was used. It never saw a silicone ADBV in its life. All it ever had were non-ADBV filters and the AC and FL1A filters, both with nitrile. When using filters with ADBVs, I never had an issue with startup noise, even down to very frigid temperatures.

I prefer a silicone ADBV. That is not to say that a nitrile ADBV is a problem, much less a deal breaker.
 
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