How well did the car run on the trip between the dealer and your house ?
EGR failure on a 2010 Honda Fit, hard to fix?
- Thread starter Blue_Goose
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
How well did the car run on the trip between the dealer and your house ?
It ran fine although the cel light was off. I imagine they can reset it with scanner
I took it out tonight and drove it around for like 20 minutes and it ran fine. The light did come back on however
How well did the car run on the trip between the dealer and your house ?
It ran fine although the cel light was off. I imagine they can reset it with scanner
I took it out tonight and drove it around for like 20 minutes and it ran fine. The light did come back on however
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
It ran fine although the cel light was off. I imagine they can reset it with scanner
I took it out tonight and drove it around for like 20 minutes and it ran fine. The light did come back on however
In that case don't sweat it. The CEL came back on because the computer doesn't like the opening percentage of the EGR. You'll need a new EGR before it's time for your next smog test. In the mean time, you can check the EGR connector to make sure you have the required 5 volts reference feed going to the EGR. All you need is a test light and the key on engine off. One of those 5 pins should be the 5 volts reference.
It ran fine although the cel light was off. I imagine they can reset it with scanner
I took it out tonight and drove it around for like 20 minutes and it ran fine. The light did come back on however
In that case don't sweat it. The CEL came back on because the computer doesn't like the opening percentage of the EGR. You'll need a new EGR before it's time for your next smog test. In the mean time, you can check the EGR connector to make sure you have the required 5 volts reference feed going to the EGR. All you need is a test light and the key on engine off. One of those 5 pins should be the 5 volts reference.
I am floored at the price to fix from dealer. I say this because I live potentially in your locale and got a much less quote($400-$500) to likely replace the EGR on a 07 Acura MDX at an Acura dealer who was going to loan me a brand newish Acura too.
I light went away to never to return in 35k miles.
I light went away to never to return in 35k miles.
I found a brand new one on eBay from a 2009 Fit. Seller bought engine to race and is parting out emission parts
35 bucks. Overnight shipping gonna be double lol
Still coming out way ahead
Should the cel go out when new EGV installed ?
35 bucks. Overnight shipping gonna be double lol
Still coming out way ahead
Should the cel go out when new EGV installed ?
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
These EGR's are ELECTRIC. The solenoid probably burn out.
On my saturns, let's say the electromagnet can pull the pintle with 5 lbs of force. There'll be six pounds worth of goo on there. Free it up with something pokey, get it bouncing smoothly again, good to go for another year plus.
An electromagnet shouldn't care if it's stalled and can't move.
I just cleaned mine a couple weeks back; wonder if this harsh winter of cold driving, short trips etc threw some extra carbon at it.
These EGR's are ELECTRIC. The solenoid probably burn out.
On my saturns, let's say the electromagnet can pull the pintle with 5 lbs of force. There'll be six pounds worth of goo on there. Free it up with something pokey, get it bouncing smoothly again, good to go for another year plus.
An electromagnet shouldn't care if it's stalled and can't move.
I just cleaned mine a couple weeks back; wonder if this harsh winter of cold driving, short trips etc threw some extra carbon at it.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: accent2012
I'm surprised a stuck or "bad" egr valve would cause the car to not run at all.
Most EGR valves are spring loaded to the closed position, but there's some out there that are spring loaded to the open position. The electric solenoid move the pintle against spring pressure. If the solenoid (on a spring loaded open EGR valve) quits working, then it will drown the combustion chamber with exhaust when the engine is trying to idle.
I see. Seems pretty flawed to me. Rather have no exhaust recirculation than constant circulation. Not everything should be controlled electronically. My GFs friend drives a brand new MKZ and her transmission is all buttons... no shift lever, nothing. I'm sure those buttons will fail past 100k miles.
Originally Posted By: accent2012
I'm surprised a stuck or "bad" egr valve would cause the car to not run at all.
Most EGR valves are spring loaded to the closed position, but there's some out there that are spring loaded to the open position. The electric solenoid move the pintle against spring pressure. If the solenoid (on a spring loaded open EGR valve) quits working, then it will drown the combustion chamber with exhaust when the engine is trying to idle.
I see. Seems pretty flawed to me. Rather have no exhaust recirculation than constant circulation. Not everything should be controlled electronically. My GFs friend drives a brand new MKZ and her transmission is all buttons... no shift lever, nothing. I'm sure those buttons will fail past 100k miles.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
These EGR's are ELECTRIC. The solenoid probably burn out.
On my saturns, let's say the electromagnet can pull the pintle with 5 lbs of force. There'll be six pounds worth of goo on there. Free it up with something pokey, get it bouncing smoothly again, good to go for another year plus.
An electromagnet shouldn't care if it's stalled and can't move.
I just cleaned mine a couple weeks back; wonder if this harsh winter of cold driving, short trips etc threw some extra carbon at it.
Yes, unfortunately today's techs have little troubleshooting knowledge, but instead are trained to be "parts changers" because it's more profitable that way. If I'm not mistaken, Merkava is a tech in training, which would explain his immediate recommendation to change the EGR valve with a new one.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
These EGR's are ELECTRIC. The solenoid probably burn out.
On my saturns, let's say the electromagnet can pull the pintle with 5 lbs of force. There'll be six pounds worth of goo on there. Free it up with something pokey, get it bouncing smoothly again, good to go for another year plus.
An electromagnet shouldn't care if it's stalled and can't move.
I just cleaned mine a couple weeks back; wonder if this harsh winter of cold driving, short trips etc threw some extra carbon at it.
Yes, unfortunately today's techs have little troubleshooting knowledge, but instead are trained to be "parts changers" because it's more profitable that way. If I'm not mistaken, Merkava is a tech in training, which would explain his immediate recommendation to change the EGR valve with a new one.
To be fair Merk did say that if the car is running fine now I should be good to go.
What might have been lost in this is I picked up a brand new one for under 100 bucks that I should be getting tomorrow.
Looking at the picture I posted where should I have cleaned? I dont see an in port and out port that was described earlier? I noticed on the port that is attached to the car that there is some carbon "edged" build up there. I'd like to clean that a bit but dont want pieces to tumble down the hole
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset. I imagine it came back on due to the EGR
What might have been lost in this is I picked up a brand new one for under 100 bucks that I should be getting tomorrow.
Looking at the picture I posted where should I have cleaned? I dont see an in port and out port that was described earlier? I noticed on the port that is attached to the car that there is some carbon "edged" build up there. I'd like to clean that a bit but dont want pieces to tumble down the hole
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset. I imagine it came back on due to the EGR
This is the portion the needs to be cleaned. You probably have to push in the plunger and clean the mating surface.
Aha gotcha. When I put the new one in tomorrow I'll take a closer look at the one I'm replacing and see how much it cleans up
All swapped out in about 4 minutes. Thanks guys
Less than 100 bucks
Less than 100 bucks
That is good news. If I was in this thread earlier, I would simply warn you nor to use an aftermarket EGR valve. I dealt with too many 2001-2004 Civics that would once again have a check engine light when the discount EGR sensor was installed.
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset.
The computer will turn the CEL off after a few ignition cycles if the EGR circuit passes inspection.
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset.
The computer will turn the CEL off after a few ignition cycles if the EGR circuit passes inspection.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset.
The computer will turn the CEL off after a few ignition cycles if the EGR circuit passes inspection.
Went out first thing this morning
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
I'm just wondering if when I installed the new EGR tomorrow if the CEL will go out or if I'll need it reset.
The computer will turn the CEL off after a few ignition cycles if the EGR circuit passes inspection.
Went out first thing this morning
Thanks!
Less than 10 minutes DIY with $100 part, while dealer charges more than $500 part and labor, unbelievable !
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