0W20 Recommendation for 2012 ACCORD

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Mazda's (Idemitsu) 0w-20 has 600 ppm of moly for extra protection. Most oils take a different approach, using between 0 to 300 ppm moly. It may be the old dimer moly (not the newer better trimer form, aka 'trinuclear moly'), but 600 ppm is a lot.

If Mazda's on-the-bottle claims are correct, the extra moly protects at startup and cold running when heat has not activated the ZDDP in the valvetrain and bearings.
 
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After running them all, Id say VSP 0w20 - until I get some time with the new GTL Pennzoil stuff. Early SN QSUD and M1 were too dirty on the Subaru FB25 motor - which is now HARD on oil - constant sticking TC tensioners and heavy varnish in the fill tube and around the VCT housing - which is readily visible. I was impressed how clean the VSP 0w20 is keeping things over the other so called top pseudo-syns.
 
I have been using M1 0-20 in my Fords for several years now and my engines are like new clean through the oil fill hole. At 10K OCIs this oil works very well.

 
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Originally Posted By: kenpoed
excuse my ignorance, what is TGMO?
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil ... or it could mean Tightwads Got More Oil, not sure...
 
I would recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 from Wally World. Especially with the rebate that is going on. It comes to about $1 per quart after rebate. It will keep your engine nice and clean. Just follow the Oil Life Monitor. No need to do a 6k OCI.

I have run a lot of different oils in my Hondas. I very much prefer the Pennzoil Platinum over everything I have used, IMHO.
 
I'd stick with an OEM 0W-20.
The reason being that they are generally much lighter on start-up even at room temperature, that the after-market offerings.

TGMO,MGMO, Mitsubishi 0W-20 and Honda 0W-20 in that order would be by recommendation.
 
I would recommend using whatever you can get the best deal on (i.e. the cheapest) for the major brands. They will all probably work well enough in your application.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I'd stick with an OEM 0W-20.
The reason being that they are generally much lighter on start-up even at room temperature, that the after-market offerings.

TGMO,MGMO, Mitsubishi 0W-20 and Honda 0W-20 in that order would be by recommendation.

When we speak of Honda 0w20....we are talking about the "normal" Conoco synthetic blend they make for Honda correct? Not the Honda full synthetic..which is quite $$
 
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Chances are that the TGMO, M1, and Pennzoil all use the super-potent trinuclear moly. However, since the TGMO 0W-20 SN has the highest concentration (~ 100 ppm Mo), I would go with the TGMO 0W-20 SN.

I'll post a new VOA for the TGMO 0W-20 SN next Friday or so.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I'd stick with an OEM 0W-20.
The reason being that they are generally much lighter on start-up even at room temperature, that the after-market offerings.
+1. specially if you desire superb fuel economy.
 
Originally Posted By: kenpoed
Does TGMA only come in syn blend? I cant seem to find full synthetic

TGMO 0W-20 SN only comes in full synthetic. It doesn't come in synthetic blend.
 
Kenpoed, if your Accord is a 4-cylinder you can use ANY available 0W-20 for 6k OCIs, the K24 is VERY easy on oil and extremely durable, it doesn't really matter WHAT brand of oil you use. Just buy whatever is on-sale, readily available, and/or easily obtainable. Someone else already mentioned that NAPA Synthetic is on sale right now for only $3.49/qt, use IT in your Honda. Your Honda won't know the difference but your pocketbook will!
On my K24 I have not noticed ANY difference in fuel mileage with any of the brands.
 
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NAPA syn at $3.49/qt would be a good deal and is an Ashland product either close or identical to Synpower.
You can register this '12 for both the Pennzoil and Quaker State "engine warranty" rebates and get twenty bucks MIR on a jug each of Plat and QSUD 0W-20.
Wally is clearancing the QSUD at many stores for $17.00, so you'd even be a couple of bucks ahead.
You could also stash some Plat 0W-20 using the current ten buck MIR as well as FRN credits, which provide for substantial savings on fuel at participating Shell stations.
I have a nice stash of Idemitsu HGMO, as well as a few changes worth of Amsoil SSO 0W-20 so I won't be needing oil for my '12 Accord for quite some time.
I'll second those who've written that you should change oil by the IOLM.
When the MM hits 15%, start thinking about an oil change, rather than every 6K.
I went to 8700 and 15% MM on the FF, since Honda is adamant about running a full interval on the FF, while the second run, under different driving consitions yielded but 6.5K to 15% MM.
If your car has an IOLM, and your Honda does, use it to save yourself some dollars on unecessarily frequent drains.
 
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