Summer Car - start up

[2stroker]

Noob post...
I've got a 2000 T/A Firehawk with 7,700 miles on it.
I use 5W/30 as per manufacturer (Mobil Syn). Car sits for 7 months, Oct-May each year.

I'm thinking I should be using 0W/30 to help with start up & summer driving?

Then again maybe it doesn't matter. I cringe at start up each season.

Matt

 

[Shannow]

I'd suggest that you refrain from that first start.

If you didn't need it the rest of the year, you don't need it now.

 

[GutsyGecko]

Fog it before storage.

 

[05foresterXT]

Amsoil z-rod 10w30 might be a good choice for a car that sits. Maybe you should get a block heater, and drive it a couple times in the winter if the first start of the season bothers you. There won't be much advantage to a 0w30 over a 5w30 or 10w30 for that first start if it sat all winter. Just make sure you get the oil nice and hot and go for a good long drive every time you start it up.

 

[rob6773]

I would use Mobil Euro 0W-40. High TBN, a little thicker @full temp., more zinc and phosphorus. LS engines like oil that is slightly thicker.

 

[il_signore97]

Originally Posted By: 2stroker
Noob post...
I've got a 2000 T/A Firehawk with 7,700 miles on it.
I use 5W/30 as per manufacturer (Mobil Syn). Car sits for 7 months, Oct-May each year.

I'm thinking I should be using 0W/30 to help with start up & summer driving?

Then again maybe it doesn't matter. I cringe at start up each season.

Matt




I don't think there is anything wrong with your oil choice. Using a full syn is a smart move, and you can't really do much better. A 0W30 would be fine as well, but I'm not sure it would help you much with the first start of the year.

Firstly, I just want to say that although you may not like the sound of the first start, the reality is likely that it will not appreciably affect the longevity of your engine in any meaningful way. However...

There are some things you can do to help ease your mind if you choose.

The best option, but also the most work, is to pull each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder after it has been parked for it's last time at the end of the summer. Replace the plugs, pull out the fuel injector relay / fuse, and crank the car briefly to circulate the oil in the cylinders. The fogging oil prevents rust build-up in the cylinders while sitting during the winter, and the associated ring / cylinder bore wear on that first start-up. This is overkill, but some people do this and there is arguably some benefit to it. However, many 4-stroke engines sit un-fogged and run fine for many many years.

A second thing to do is right before your first start-up in the summer, keep that fuel injector relay / fuse out and crank the car for about 3 seconds to start "pre-lubing" the engine prior to actually firing it up. Again, this is likely unnecessary but might be of "some" benefit.

 

[Eddie]

+1 Shannow. Just follow wht you are doing with a SYN 5w30.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: il_signore97
Originally Posted By: 2stroker
Noob post...
I've got a 2000 T/A Firehawk with 7,700 miles on it.
I use 5W/30 as per manufacturer (Mobil Syn). Car sits for 7 months, Oct-May each year.

I'm thinking I should be using 0W/30 to help with start up & summer driving?

Then again maybe it doesn't matter. I cringe at start up each season.

Matt




I don't think there is anything wrong with your oil choice. Using a full syn is a smart move, and you can't really do much better. A 0W30 would be fine as well, but I'm not sure it would help you much with the first start of the year.

Firstly, I just want to say that although you may not like the sound of the first start, the reality is likely that it will not appreciably affect the longevity of your engine in any meaningful way. However...

There are some things you can do to help ease your mind if you choose.

The best option, but also the most work, is to pull each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder after it has been parked for it's last time at the end of the summer. Replace the plugs, pull out the fuel injector relay / fuse, and crank the car briefly to circulate the oil in the cylinders. The fogging oil prevents rust build-up in the cylinders while sitting during the winter, and the associated ring / cylinder bore wear on that first start-up. This is overkill, but some people do this and there is arguably some benefit to it. However, many 4-stroke engines sit un-fogged and run fine for many many years.

A second thing to do is right before your first start-up in the summer, keep that fuel injector relay / fuse out and crank the car for about 3 seconds to start "pre-lubing" the engine prior to actually firing it up. Again, this is likely unnecessary but might be of "some" benefit.


Please don't do that...The engine will have oil pressure faster and more volume when started over sitting there cranking it over with the starter.

Check everything over, fire it up, then enjoy the car.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Brent_G
Originally Posted By: il_signore97

A second thing to do is right before your first start-up in the summer, keep that fuel injector relay / fuse out and crank the car for about 3 seconds to start "pre-lubing" the engine prior to actually firing it up. Again, this is likely unnecessary but might be of "some" benefit.


Please don't do that...The engine will have oil pressure in fewer rotations when started over sitting there cranking it over with the starter.

Check everything over, fire it up, then enjoy the car.


I agree with Brent G. on this one. I go out of my way to make sure my engines do NOT crank for extended periods after they've been sitting. All a few seconds of low-speed cranking does for you is squeegee away the remaining oil film that's been coating the parts. My '66 Polara has an electric fuel pump, so when its been sitting for a a few months, I visually check the engine bay for debris or critters (never found any- I store it so that's unlikely). Then I deliberately let the fuel pump run for 10-15 seconds to fill the carb bowl, then pump the squirters a couple of times, and fire it up in as few compressions as possible so that the oil pressure builds in as few turns of the crank as possible. Granted, its got a flat lifter cam so the "squeegee" effect is even more important with it, but the same applies to a lesser degree to rollers, cylinder walls, and basically all the moving parts.

As for oil choice- you're doing fine. M1 0w30 (AFE or the new EP either one) are also excellent, but frankly not all that different in first-start of the season performance IMO. EP maybe a little better because of slightly higher percentages in the anti-wear additive package, but its not a big difference.

 

[650NutKase]

Id be more concerned with the fuel system getting clogged somewhere with stale gas. What I would personally do is put the gas pedal to the floor (clear flood mode) and give it about 5-10 seconds of cranking. This will get the oil circulating and the fuel system primed, with the exception of the injectors. This way, you wont have a dry start with no oil circulated.

 

[Brent_G]

Cycling the key once or twice would achieve the same result without the dry cranking.

On our cars oil pressure comes much quicker and higher starting normally over cranking. The hemi for instance carries 15 psi after 3 seconds while cranking and slowly climbs to 20 after about 15 seconds - by that time it gets enough fuel to light off and jumps to 2k rpms and 80ish psi. The 512 uses the same oil system/clearances and 2 pumps of the throttle it fires up in seconds with immediate 80 psi.

Is it a huge deal? IMO not really but I would rather have the increased rpms/pressure right away.

 

[2stroker]

Great replies, pretty active forum compared to others.

Think I'll stick with the 5W. I'm attempting to be a good "custodian" & keep the car in good condition for the long haul.

Thought about fogging in the fall. I do that to most of my other machinery. More difficult with the plug locations, etc on the LS1 motor.

I'm probably over thinking the issue...

Again - appreciate the replies. Take all the suggestions seriously. (with the exception of not starting it at all) lol.

 

[KrisZ]

OP is worrying about start up wear, but obviously not enough. People that truly worry about the start up wear would do the following:
- install coolant heater.
- install oil pan heater.
- install the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- buy Sustina 0w20, or whatever the lightest oil there is at about $20 a quart.
- pour out the storage oil and fill up with the thinnest stuff.
- fire up all heaters for several hours.
- fire up the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- fire up the engine for 30 minute idle.
- drain out the uber expensive, thin stuff and pour in the proper spec oil.
- drive to the recycler and dump the super expensive, thin stuff.
- sleep well knowing that you just extended the life of your car by few miles... maybe...

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
OP is worrying about start up wear, but obviously not enough. People that truly worry about the start up wear would do the following:
- install coolant heater.
- install oil pan heater.
- install the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- buy Sustina 0w20, or whatever the lightest oil there is at about $20 a quart.
- pour out the storage oil and fill up with the thinnest stuff.
- fire up all heaters for several hours.
- fire up the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- fire up the engine for 30 minute idle.
- drain out the uber expensive, thin stuff and pour in the proper spec oil.
- drive to the recycler and dump the super expensive, thin stuff.
- sleep well knowing that you just extended the life of your car by few miles... maybe...

Or if you want to minimize start up wear never shut the engine off...always running - no start-up wear!

 

[TomYoung]

This car needs to be driven more. If you watch Mecum, you'll see a lot of these ultra-low-mile, mint condition sleds go for low money, or not make reserve. If you dont eventually get the money out of the car, which is a possibility, you are just missing out on the fun on using it.

Your oil choice is perfect. 0W 30 Mobil 1 would be fine also.

 

[stockrex]

most of my vehicles sit a lot,
I just change with synthetic and that is it.

 

[Mud]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
OP is worrying about start up wear, but obviously not enough. People that truly worry about the start up wear would do the following:
- install coolant heater.
- install oil pan heater.
- install the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- buy Sustina 0w20, or whatever the lightest oil there is at about $20 a quart.
- pour out the storage oil and fill up with the thinnest stuff.
- fire up all heaters for several hours.
- fire up the auxilary oil pre-luber.
- fire up the engine for 30 minute idle.
- drain out the uber expensive, thin stuff and pour in the proper spec oil.
- drive to the recycler and dump the super expensive, thin stuff.
- sleep well knowing that you just extended the life of your car by few miles... maybe...

well said

My 57 sleeps sometimes for months at a time, I just start it up, using 5W-40 in the BBC. I've never had an issue, I built that engine in '87. I may have enough increased start-up wear to force a rebuild by 2030

 

[2stroker]

Originally Posted By: TomYoung
This car needs to be driven more. If you watch Mecum, you'll see a lot of these ultra-low-mile, mint condition sleds go for low money, or not make reserve. If you dont eventually get the money out of the car, which is a possibility, you are just missing out on the fun on using it.

Your oil choice is perfect. 0W 30 Mobil 1 would be fine also.


Bought it from the orig owner 2 yrs ago. I'll get using it....not daily though. I'm into it on the low side to start. All good. Won't lose a cent on it. Just for putzin around on a nice summer day.

Matt

 

[RedOakRanch]

If the car is accessible I would start it once a month or so just to keep the battery and oil OK. I do this for my dozer and everything stays nice and ready to go. If not just start it the first of summer like you dont know any better. One dry start per year won't kill the engine anyway.

 

[Chris142]

i dont know where the idea of cranking it w\o spark comes from.its a real bad idea. just start it.starting it gets oil pumping much faster with less wear.