The High Mile Club
- Thread starter Nick1994
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Its amazing how every body with a lease thinks 150,000 miles us high mileage.
I am bummed we did not make it to high mileage(200k+ to me) with our 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with 5mt major repair free. I have 170,000 miles on ours that does not leak nor burn oil and just minor issues.
The first CEL ever(on any car) and wow turned out expensive!!!! A misfire code turns out to be a burned valve so its in for a valve job($2400 at best case). But of course so much gets removed a lot of new parts on going in.
The first CEL ever(on any car) and wow turned out expensive!!!! A misfire code turns out to be a burned valve so its in for a valve job($2400 at best case). But of course so much gets removed a lot of new parts on going in.
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- Dec 30, 2006
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My dad had a 1990 Olds Delta 88 that had over 500,000 miles on it when he gave it to one of my nephews. Still ran like brand new. No oil leaks or usage at all. Original tranny went out after 400,000 or so. Pyb 10W30 since new.
Friend has a 1998 Nissan Altima that should be well over 300,000 miles by now. Only thing ever replaced was the alternator. Pyb 10W30 since new.
My highest mile car was a 1987 Olds Toronado Trofeo FE3. Had in the 250-300,000 mile range when I sold it to buy a 3000GT. GTX 20W50 all its life. Ran like a dream!
Friend has a 1998 Nissan Altima that should be well over 300,000 miles by now. Only thing ever replaced was the alternator. Pyb 10W30 since new.
My highest mile car was a 1987 Olds Toronado Trofeo FE3. Had in the 250-300,000 mile range when I sold it to buy a 3000GT. GTX 20W50 all its life. Ran like a dream!
Just sold our 04 workhorse 3500 Savana 6.0 gas engined van.
Just a tick over 500k miles in one of the toughest duty cycles imaginable, ran at over 95% of it's max GVWR EVERY SINGLE DAY of its life. No smoke, no oil consumption, no knocks, no leaks.
Purchased at full asking price by a helicopter mechanic from Michigan, he was utterly amazed at the ORIGINAL AC still working perfectly, trans shifting well, and of course that amazing Florida rust free under body.
They're not all that good...
Just a tick over 500k miles in one of the toughest duty cycles imaginable, ran at over 95% of it's max GVWR EVERY SINGLE DAY of its life. No smoke, no oil consumption, no knocks, no leaks.
Purchased at full asking price by a helicopter mechanic from Michigan, he was utterly amazed at the ORIGINAL AC still working perfectly, trans shifting well, and of course that amazing Florida rust free under body.
They're not all that good...
1995 Toyota T100 Pickup 2wd auto. 3.4 V6 - 462,000 miles
2nd owner, purchased in 2000. Mileage at purchase: 219,000.
Headgaskets and short block replaced at 262,000 (7/2002) - factory recall - Toyota's nickle.
1 fuel injector replaced, two sets of starter contacts replaced. Oil changes at 7000 mi. w/Mobil 1 5w30 and Toyota oil filters.
Transmission fluid exhanges every 50k. Still running OEM A340 transmission.
Currently installing a flexplate to replace the cracked original.
The most reliable and easiest to work on vehicle I've ever owned. It's now a project. I'm going to drive it till it won't go any more. I'm shooting for a million miles.
2nd owner, purchased in 2000. Mileage at purchase: 219,000.
Headgaskets and short block replaced at 262,000 (7/2002) - factory recall - Toyota's nickle.
1 fuel injector replaced, two sets of starter contacts replaced. Oil changes at 7000 mi. w/Mobil 1 5w30 and Toyota oil filters.
Transmission fluid exhanges every 50k. Still running OEM A340 transmission.
Currently installing a flexplate to replace the cracked original.
The most reliable and easiest to work on vehicle I've ever owned. It's now a project. I'm going to drive it till it won't go any more. I'm shooting for a million miles.
I also thought this was the mile high club...
My hi-mile vehicle was an '89 grand voyager w/ ultra drive and 3.0V6 that ran w/o drivetrain failure until 289k miles when it blew a head gasket. It had been smoking for about 240k miles at that point. Every other piece of the van was worn out by about 120k, but it still pulled my trailer to tracks all over the US every week.
That was when those transmissions rarely made it to 80k.
My next highest was 220k on a tundra w/ no repairs that were not caused by my abuse.
Both were bought new by me.
Current G35 is at 150k, I don't see it making it to 200k w/o a major repair. Same thing with our FX45 - currently about 110k, don't expect it to make 200k either. They just seem to be degrading faster than I expected.
My hi-mile vehicle was an '89 grand voyager w/ ultra drive and 3.0V6 that ran w/o drivetrain failure until 289k miles when it blew a head gasket. It had been smoking for about 240k miles at that point. Every other piece of the van was worn out by about 120k, but it still pulled my trailer to tracks all over the US every week.
That was when those transmissions rarely made it to 80k.
My next highest was 220k on a tundra w/ no repairs that were not caused by my abuse.
Both were bought new by me.
Current G35 is at 150k, I don't see it making it to 200k w/o a major repair. Same thing with our FX45 - currently about 110k, don't expect it to make 200k either. They just seem to be degrading faster than I expected.
Originally Posted By: asand1
1996 Nissan Maxima. 300,055 miles. Supertech 5w30 every 4000 miles since buying it 5 years ago.
...and who says the store brand oils aren't any good? I put 295K on a '99 Corolla using nothing but ST oil, and now my '04 Corolla just turned 200K on ST and doesn't use a drop...I'm hoping to get another 200K on this one...
1996 Nissan Maxima. 300,055 miles. Supertech 5w30 every 4000 miles since buying it 5 years ago.
...and who says the store brand oils aren't any good? I put 295K on a '99 Corolla using nothing but ST oil, and now my '04 Corolla just turned 200K on ST and doesn't use a drop...I'm hoping to get another 200K on this one...
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209,xxx on my Integra. I've had it for around 7.5 years. Bought it with around 120,000 on it. Usually just used whatever oil was on sale for 3000-5000 mile intervals. Occasionally used premium oil like Amsoil. Also used Pennzoil Platinum, Havoline, Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and probably others that I'm forgetting now. I haven't noticed much of a difference between brands/performance/longevity.
1.4 million miles on a Cummins N-14 without ever being opened up for a major repair and still ran good when I sold it. Got 30,000 mile oil changes with Kendall conventional oil. No bypass filter either. Ok, I know, not quite an apples to apples comparison as this was a diesel in a semi truck. But I still liked the results.
245k on a 3.4 v6 tacoma with manual trans. 7-10k OCI's with whatever synthetic is on sale. Original everything except water pump starter and radiator. Original rear brakes. Only on the second set of front brakes. 2nd owner, purchased at 80k.
249k on 97 Integra, automatic
230k on 95 Corolla, automatic
already wrapped around the 5 digit odo on my 93 Escort.
230k on 95 Corolla, automatic
already wrapped around the 5 digit odo on my 93 Escort.
363,000 on my daily driver S-10. needs a new cap and rotor. no reason to think I won't make it to 400-500k. 4.3 V6
1984 Civic wagon, S.Cal, 1.5 carb motor 428K miles. Original owner, still drive it every day. Runs great, no problems ever, everything works. No plans to ever sell it. I hope I can drive it to my funeral. AC failed a couple of months ago and I'm not sure about fixing it, expensive. I've done all the maintenance until very recently. Had that complicated carb rebuilt by a San Diego Carburetor. Stan did a great job, cheaper and better than a replacement. Car runs like new, again. It passes Cal smog, no problem.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
AC failed a couple of months ago and I'm not sure about fixing it, expensive.
Have you had it diagnosed?
Usually swapping out a compressor, condenser, expansion valve, and drier is something a DIY-er can do. An evaporator can be a challenge. You can buy a can of pressurized flush fluid.
You take your car to a shop, pay the guy to recover all the refrigerant, do your DIY stuff, then go back to the shop and have your system vacuumed out and recharged.
Sometimes you can get a re-engineered 100% new compressor that works better insystems that used to have R-12.
AC failed a couple of months ago and I'm not sure about fixing it, expensive.
Have you had it diagnosed?
Usually swapping out a compressor, condenser, expansion valve, and drier is something a DIY-er can do. An evaporator can be a challenge. You can buy a can of pressurized flush fluid.
You take your car to a shop, pay the guy to recover all the refrigerant, do your DIY stuff, then go back to the shop and have your system vacuumed out and recharged.
Sometimes you can get a re-engineered 100% new compressor that works better insystems that used to have R-12.
1991 Camry 2.0L 297k second owner bought in 1999 with 83k
2000 Silverado 1500 2WD 5.3L 245k second owner bought in 2007 with 96k
2000 Impala LS 3.8L 229k second owner bought in 2005 with 99k
Engines/transmissions are originals, except I had to have the Camry's head redone at 248k because I never checked the valve clearances and burnt an exhaust valve.
The Impala spent it's early life in Georgia, and my Silverado lived in Michigan but the owner was an older snowbird going down south during winter. Both of them are 99% rust free with yearly Carwell treatments. The Camry lived it's entire life in the northeast rust belt and it shows it
2000 Silverado 1500 2WD 5.3L 245k second owner bought in 2007 with 96k
2000 Impala LS 3.8L 229k second owner bought in 2005 with 99k
Engines/transmissions are originals, except I had to have the Camry's head redone at 248k because I never checked the valve clearances and burnt an exhaust valve.
The Impala spent it's early life in Georgia, and my Silverado lived in Michigan but the owner was an older snowbird going down south during winter. Both of them are 99% rust free with yearly Carwell treatments. The Camry lived it's entire life in the northeast rust belt and it shows it
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
AC failed a couple of months ago and I'm not sure about fixing it, expensive.
Have you had it diagnosed?
Usually swapping out a compressor, condenser, expansion valve, and drier is something a DIY-er can do. An evaporator can be a challenge. You can buy a can of pressurized flush fluid.
You take your car to a shop, pay the guy to recover all the refrigerant, do your DIY stuff, then go back to the shop and have your system vacuumed out and recharged.
Sometimes you can get a re-engineered 100% new compressor that works better insystems that used to have R-12.
So far I'm planning to use Freeze-12 but I need new hoses. The sight class blew out and all the R-12 was lost. I'm on a tight budget because of cancer and my healthcare policy getting cancelled. The new policy does not cover the cancer drugs and costs a lot more. It has a big deductible and higher copay, too. So, getting the AC fixed is on hold for now. And, by the way we're having a heat wave here in Southern California right now. Great timing.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
AC failed a couple of months ago and I'm not sure about fixing it, expensive.
Have you had it diagnosed?
Usually swapping out a compressor, condenser, expansion valve, and drier is something a DIY-er can do. An evaporator can be a challenge. You can buy a can of pressurized flush fluid.
You take your car to a shop, pay the guy to recover all the refrigerant, do your DIY stuff, then go back to the shop and have your system vacuumed out and recharged.
Sometimes you can get a re-engineered 100% new compressor that works better insystems that used to have R-12.
So far I'm planning to use Freeze-12 but I need new hoses. The sight class blew out and all the R-12 was lost. I'm on a tight budget because of cancer and my healthcare policy getting cancelled. The new policy does not cover the cancer drugs and costs a lot more. It has a big deductible and higher copay, too. So, getting the AC fixed is on hold for now. And, by the way we're having a heat wave here in Southern California right now. Great timing.
A previous Mk3 Mondeo 2.0 tdci (2005) had over 240k on it when i sold it.
Current Jaguar XJL 3.0D is about to hit 104k miles and is a Nov 2011.
Pathfinder has almost 121k miles on it. Intended to do an oci at 120k but not had the time as yet.
I still find it annoying that UK consumers undervalue higher mileage vehicles as much as they do.
My Jag has full Main Dealer history and has had several thousands spent on servicing alone.
Current Jaguar XJL 3.0D is about to hit 104k miles and is a Nov 2011.
Pathfinder has almost 121k miles on it. Intended to do an oci at 120k but not had the time as yet.
I still find it annoying that UK consumers undervalue higher mileage vehicles as much as they do.
My Jag has full Main Dealer history and has had several thousands spent on servicing alone.
I realize consistent maintenance is key for getting 200k+ miles out of a vehicle. However, do you follow the manufacturer's maintenance intervals or do you follow your own?
Example: Many manufacturers claim "life-long" fluid in the transmission. We all know there is no such thing as a "life-long" fluid, so we change the transmission fluid out every XX,XXX miles.
What intervals do you follow for the brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, etc?
Example: Many manufacturers claim "life-long" fluid in the transmission. We all know there is no such thing as a "life-long" fluid, so we change the transmission fluid out every XX,XXX miles.
What intervals do you follow for the brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, etc?
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