Ailing Battle Civic

[Vikas]

You said you have no code on the OBD-II unit. Which unit do you have? Does it give you more data? For example, can you look at live data?

Start with basics. Verify that intake air path is clear. Grab a vacuum gauge and use it to see if there is exhaust restriction.

Which spark plug did you put in 2K miles ago? If they were anything but NGK or Denso, just buy new OEM spark plugs *before* doing anything else.

Some of the random parts which you can throw at this problem without doing any detective work
1) Double dose of good fuel system cleaner (Techron/Regane/Redline)
2) battery reset

You would be stupid to throw any expensive parts at this without doing the diagnosis work regardless of who tells you to replace. A sharp technician can narrow down the list considerably using good scanner. A better technician can actually pin point a failing component even before replacing it but these guys are very rare.

Are you interested in becoming one?

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Maybe the MAF failed.


MAP based as far as I can tell.

 

[Ausfahrt]

Update:
After work today I started it up, took it for a quick spin and it ran even worse. It would not even idle at all but..... the CEL lit up! So I hooked the scanner back up and got a P1129 which apparently is a fueling issue.

At least I have something to work with now. Thanks for the input fellas.

 

[Vikas]

The first hit on Honda Civic P1129 says timing belt jumped a tooth or two. How did you come up with "fueling issue"?

 

[Thermo1223]

First link on google:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/how-to-test-code-P1129-page-1

Again check the MAP sensor.

 

[Ausfahrt]

I was hoping for an intake manifold vacuum leak but I wasn't going to get out of this that easily.

So I replaced the MAP sensor and that wasn't it either. The easy/cheap fixes have been exhausted and I think that I have either a clogged cat and/or a timing belt that has jumped a tooth.

Vikas, I may owe you a cold adult beverage!

 

[Vikas]

The scanner with live data will give you engine timing. Unfortunately, you will need to compare that data with a good running similar car. Also the idle vacuum would be low with the slipped timing. Of course taking off the timing belt cover and actually looking would confirm it.

My advice still stands. Either find a great mechanic or become a good Sherlock Holmes yourself if you want to avoid throwing random parts at it.

 

[Thermo1223]

Ya I didn't say buy a new MAP, the link shows you how to check it with a DMM.

I will consult a FSM I have.

 

[Vikas]

Come to think of it (Eljefino is going to be on my case now when the engine has less vacuum, it is going to show up as "Too High MAP value (P1129)" Couple of reasons for low vacuum are 1)jumped timing belt 2)clogged catalytic converter. Either of these will give you the symptoms that you are having aka slugging performance at load or bogging down.

 

[deepsquat]

I had the cats get clogged on my corvette..your symptoms sound the same... rent a fuel pressure gauge at an auto parts store ...if you have good pressure then check the cat for high heat with an infrared gun ..search it on you tube before you throw parts at it ,,,but my $$ is on your cat

 

[Ausfahrt]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Either find a great mechanic or become a good Sherlock Holmes yourself if you want to avoid throwing random parts at it.


I get that.

I am reasonably handy with a wrench but certainly not a master mechanic. That being said, I am not going to take my cars to the shop when I need an oil change or brake pads.
My work and my family limit the amount of time that I have to wrench on my cars and bikes but I like to eliminate the simple/easy stuff before I take it to a garage.

So, in this case I did end up taking the Battle Civic

to a garage that was highly recommended on Angies List. The timing belt had jumped two teeth and I had it, the tensioner and the water pump replaced.

The car runs great now and is ready for another 100k!!

 

[Vikas]

I am glad that you came back and updated this topic. How old was the tensioner? It is NOT common to have the belt jump couple of teeth. A bad timing belt job can lead to jumped teeth but it will show up pretty quickly after the job, certainly within few thousand miles. A good quality tensioner should last at least the scheduled interval between the timing belt jobs. Usually, they last twice that interval.

PS To be honest, I don't even change my own oil or do brake jobs! My point was when good diagnostics is needed, you really need sharp person looking at it. Often times, the owner is the only one who has the time to methodically and heuristically look at the symptoms and experiment

 

[JamesBond]

How much? What brand parts? I need to do the tb on my '04.

 

[Ausfahrt]

The timing belt and tensioner were last changed at 112k miles (scheduled interval is 110k). The garage showed me the parts and the timing belt looked fine as far as I could tell. I am convinced that it jumped time when I started it up.

As far as cost, I had some other issues addressed while the car was in there so I don't know how much the timing belt alone would have been. I knew that the timing belt was due and had been considering doing it myself before this mishap.

linky

 

[Vikas]

Isn't this an interference engine? If so, you were lucky that you got out with only timing belt change! It is remarkable that it jumped right at the 110K mile point.