I screwed up replacing lifters

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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Would I need to disassemble the lifter or just throw it in solvent in one piece? Or should I just replace it with a new one?


If you can get close to knowing which it is, Id just replace it. How much are they, like $16?


I am fairly certain based on tracking the noise that it is the very last
Lifter
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
The price is between 30 and 50 and of course has to be ordered


ouch, this might be one of those if it aint broke dont fix it moments.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: ram_man
The price is between 30 and 50 and of course has to be ordered


ouch, this might be one of those if it aint broke dont fix it moments.


I took it back apart and let them soak in b12 for about 6 hours now. That's probably enough I think. I called the part store and I looked it up on their website and they said they didn't have a listing for it so I provided the part number and then he said my car didn't have lifters.....I just said thank you and hung up. I called around its special order and would take a week to get them.
Talk about some pricey lifters.
If cleaning doesn't work I'll let her tick a little at start up. I'll just say it's her expressing her displeasure with mornings:)
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
The price is between 30 and 50 and of course has to be ordered


id keep shopping.. I can get OEM lifters for my BMW for $16 each.
 
Looks like the OP was banned???
21.gif
 
I'd bet a shiny nickel he put his lifters in with no oil again. You can get banned for that, right?
 
if he put a roller lifter in sideways, it would be destroyed seconds after the engine ran and he would have more than backfiring. like anything roller lifters will have a wear pattern to their cam lobe but to mix roller lifters is really not a big deal it certainly would not cause a problem immediately... maybe after 50k miles. if it had flat tappet lifters (i seriously doubt it but i don't know saturns) then those do wear into their respective cam lobes and a flat tappet lifter spins in it's bore as it rides the cam lobe based on a slight angle on the bottom of the lifter. when you mix flat tappet lifters to different cam lobes that normal spinning operation is upset and there's a high risk of the flat tappet lifter not spinning and wearing out the cam lobe.
i don't know saturns but my best guess is you have lifter preload wrong and the valve is not opening all the way or is hanging open, if the valve does not close and seat that will certainly cause backfiring. i would first undo the rocker arm on both intake and exhaust valve then pressurize the cylinder with air and verify both valves fully close and seat on their own and that you don't have a worn valve or valve seat.
then connect one rocker at a time and rotate engine observing valve operation making sure it fully opens and closes. I don't know saturn but you either have adjustable rockers or you don't. if you don't, then all you do is tighten down the rocker fully it's the length of the pushrod and the pedestal height of the rocker when tightened down that fixes your lifter preload, the rocker gets tightened with the lifter on the base circle of the cam where the lifter touches no part of the cam lobe, if it does then you have the possibility of offsetting the rocket and binding it when tightening down because you're going against valve spring pressure. if you have adjustable rockers, then you must have lifter on base circle of the cam and how far you tighten down the rocker nut determines preload and most likely where your problem is. a quick way to tell is on another cylinder you have not touched is see if you can tightened down it's rocker another 1/4 turn, if you can you have adjustable rockers, undo that 1/4 turn obviously and put that lifter preload back to where it's supposed to be.
and you do not have to soak or fill hydraulic lifters with oil. they fill immediately after oil pressure gets over 1 psi after the engine starts. at most you coat the outside of the lifter so it isn't dry and score the lifter bore when it first moves during engine cranking.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
What did chevyboy do this time?



Hehehe.
I don't know. I'll check out his posts,see who he spouted off to
 
and again i don't know saturns but all roller lifters need something to align them and keep them straight in their bores, so the wheel rides in line with the cam lobe. typical chevy small block lifters are round and use some means of keeping them straight whether it's both lifters for a cylinder connected or an alignment piece over the lifter bore. make sure you recognize/identify such a thing on yours, if you're roller lifters aren't kept straight they will destroy itself.

IMG_8678-500x333.jpg

ccrp_0710_07_z+hydraulic_roller_cams+ford_5.0l_w_stock_hydraulic_roller_cams.jpg
 
1 FMF:

I went and found us some pics of the OP's engine (though I believe he's been banned again so we likely won't be hearing back from him for a while):

5542spring_and_rocker.jpg

5542head_on_car_2.jpg

5542timing_cover_on_top_11_20.jpg


As you can see, the cam resides in the centre of the head with the lifters coming down from the top and the rockers, which are not adjustable, fitted to shafts on either side.

The lifters, with the tops visible in the last pick, are hydraulic roller and have a keep, like the Ford ones you posted in your last picture.

I was thinking perhaps he left the keep off and a lifter went sideways or was flopping around, as that makes a rather awful noise. However he confirmed that this was not the case so
21.gif


Also, with respect to soaking the lifters, that was something I was taught to do to ensure that, when they've been washed in solvent, that there is oil on the plunger assembly when it goes to operate once receiving oil pressure. I'm sure it isn't necessary, but it is something I've always done and I certainly don't see anything wrong with the practice.
 
Hey everyone so I was banned permanently for a week? And now I am not.... not quite sure why I was in the first place.
To give an update. The car is running fine but cleaning the lifter didnt help. What originally went wrong in regards to why it kept ticking after I removed amd reinstalled is I guess it lost its prime. It was only removed for a couple minutes so I didnt think I needed to re prime it. Anway. I let it soak in b12 then in oil started up sounded great but still does the start up tick. Ill probably get lifters eventually....
 
it does not matter if a lifter drains of oil.
it will fill back up immediately after the engine starts and the oil system pressurizes. if it is lifter tick, it is either a bad lifter that has internal leakage at the check valve and does not lock up. or you have worn lifter bores and it's the lifter rocking in the lifter bore- new lifters won't fix this.
 
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
it does not matter if a lifter drains of oil.
it will fill back up immediately after the engine starts and the oil system pressurizes. if it is lifter tick, it is either a bad lifter that has internal leakage at the check valve and does not lock up. or you have worn lifter bores and it's the lifter rocking in the lifter bore- new lifters won't fix this.


Yup, this.
 
I got it to stop by holding 1500 rpm for 1 minute. My friend (gm tech) told me to do that. It still does the 1 second tick on start up maybe 2 seconds but I think it's just a lifter bleeding down.....
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
I got it to stop by holding 1500 rpm for 1 minute. My friend (gm tech) told me to do that. It still does the 1 second tick on start up maybe 2 seconds but I think it's just a lifter bleeding down.....


Which points to what 1 FMF said above, probably the lifter is leaking at the check valve.
 
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