Brake Fluid Flush

[AKhan87]

Cars in question are the celicas in my signature, both of them actually.
I'm looking for anything that will last at least 3 years without needing change as my wife will be helping me...

Wife:in Pharmacy College.
Me:will be in pharmacy college in a year.

First of all what brake fluid?

I was thinking Dot 5.1 available at 15.99 per quart at O'Reilly.

or should I go with Dot 3 only as it's the OEM fluid specced for the car?
will Dot 4 work fine as well? as far as cost goes whatever will last 3 years at least and will be considered safe during that time frame.

DIY I only know about this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O_pbC8R2E
where do I get that long pipette? I have searched and came up with some really small ones from walmart, and where do I get a clear tube that would fit the bleeders like that?

Any tips on the DIY? I have no intention of using any 1 man vacuum machines, my 96 Civic was done using the two man method with a mechanic friend of mine (I only did the pedaling and didn't know what was going on outside) and It brakes better then my 2000 civic did when new till 320k(death). What can I do to make sure there is no air left in the brake system?

00 Celica:
1. New Wagner Rotors Front & Back
2. New Wagner Ceramic Brake Pads Front & Back
3. 77k/7.5year old Brake Fluid (original owner had it done then)

96 Civic:
1. Old Rotors
2. Old Brake Pads
3. 10k/1.5year old Brake Fluid

96 Civic brakes probably 2 times better I "feel" then 00 celica even though it has only brake drum/shoes in the back...

 

[riggaz]

Brake fluid only usually lasts for 2 years as a rule. ATE SL6 is what we use in our workshop to good effect, guaranteed to last for 2 years.

Silicon brake fluid is not hygroscopic so will last for 3 years ok but I've heard reports of poor pedal feel and also ABS system and seal incompatibility, basically, don't use it.

Get a pressure bleeder, they are best and will guarantee no air in the system.

Vacuum bleeders are ok but will require some skill

Manually bleeding will involve some skill with a spanner (being able to turn it clockwise and anti clockwise) and the knowledge to do it correctly. Sometimes the seals on the master cylinder can get damaged when doing manual bleeds.

They'll hold about 1 litre each but you'll need half again the total capacity to flush all the old fluid out.

But if your brakes feel bad then poor quality brake pads and discs will give you that performance.

Start with the bleed nipple furthest away from the master cylinder first as a rule and don't let the reservoir run dry.

 

[CharBaby]

I like to flush my brake system about every 2-3 years. Most folks that I know never do anything and never have any issues with stopping power. It's a good rule-of-thumb to flush the system on some regular basis.

 

[Nyquist]

I like to gravity bleed the system if possible. Just open up the bleeders & leave the master cap slightly off-center. Run a can or two of fluid through all four wheels. Then perform the pump, hold & bleed method. I've always had great luck going this route.

 

[EvanD]

Don't mix 3 and 5. Not compatible. I would just gravity bleed them.

I am a pharmacist. Good luck on school.

 

[GutsyGecko]

DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with anything. Dot 4 is better than DOT 3. DOT 5.1 is better than DOT 4. Do you need a fluid that boils at 700 F? Probably not. But what they do have is a higher wet boiling point. Meaning that on a street driven car you have more room to absorb water before you have a problem on your hands.

 

[andyd]

My brake flushes usually coincide with hard line replacements. In order not to mess with the ABS on the 528s, I must keep the MC filled. I buy brake fluid by the qt. DOT 4 is just DOT 3 with a higher boiling point. It is fine for the driving I do.
A gravity bleed will only work if the system is tight, so I use it to test my work. I use a gravity bleed, then I follow up with an simple air lock. A piece of clear tubing pushed onto the bleeder and stuck into a a small bottle of BF is all it is. That way I can pump the pedal by hand and watch the bottle. Best pedals ever. If you are flushing a system, use at least a qt. Brake fluid doesn't keep well ,once opened

 

[djb]

There is a tradeoff between moisture affinity and boiling point. A high boiling point DOT4 fluid is likely to attract more moisture than a DOT3 fluid. That said, it's possible to have a cheap minimum boiling point DOT3 fluid that also sucks moisture quickly. The trick is to synthesize a fluid that simultaneously has a high initial boiling point and low moisture attraction.

 

[tommygunn]

Yes, that Wagner DOT 5.1 is great stuff and will work well in your car.

Dot 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 will be fine

Changing it every 2-3 years is much more important than what fluid you actually use.

Speed bleeders make the job easier.

 

[mene]

You ask for 3 year brake fluid, ATE TYP 200 "is" a 3 year DOT4 fluid, check it out. If you are not proficient doing a two man/woman brake bleeding I highly recommend a pressure or vacuum bleeder, I know a lot of people baulk at it but I like reverse brake bleeding, I have had better results with it, with the pumping method you have to be aware that if you haven't touched your master cylinder you need to limit the travel of the pedal to what normally is while you drive or you might damage the seals in it and will need replacement soon. If you have the time and don't have any air in the system you could try the gravity method is very easy, a hose in each bleeder and a catch can in each hose, open and let them bleed slowly, when the master cylinder reservoir is almost empty fill it with the brake fluid and let it bleed until almost empty again, repeat a third time and should be enough, close bleeders and you are done. I like Pentosin LV and ATE SL.6 too because of the lower viscosity and SL.6 is amber in color, easy to see in translucent reservoirs, but they are a 2 years fluids. Best of luck

 

[JHZR2]

I'd just run a good quality dot 3 or 4. Dot 4 supposedly absorbs water slightly faster, but both dry and wet boiling temperatures are higher.

So you may want to read the trades on using for 3 vs 4, then just pick one and use it. Best practice is 12-24 months, but plenty of people never flush fluid... So three years is surely fine.

 

[deanm11]

Would you mind elaborating why you say this is the case? I have always done a pump method and have not had any problems.

Originally Posted By: mene
.... I have had better results with it, with the pumping method you have to be aware that if you haven't touched your master cylinder you need to limit the travel of the pedal to what normally is while you drive or you might damage the seals in it and will need replacement soon. ....

 

[artificialist]

I always choose to replace DOT3 with DOT4 in my families cars. Automotive manuals usually say DOT3 degrades more quickly than DOT4, but I find the opposite is true.

On cars with ABS, I use Pentosin DOT4LV. Pentosin says that fluid has a lower viscosity, and that helps the ABS system perform better. I never have pushed the brakes to the need for ABS, but I feel good knowing that my ABS brakes are performing as well as possible.

 

[tommygunn]

@artificalist, all DOT 5.1 has that low viscosity by definition. The viscosity limit is half that of DOT 4.

 

[mene]

Originally Posted By: deanm11
Would you mind elaborating why you say this is the case? I have always done a pump method and have not had any problems.

Originally Posted By: mene
.... I have had better results with it, with the pumping method you have to be aware that if you haven't touched your master cylinder you need to limit the travel of the pedal to what normally is while you drive or you might damage the seals in it and will need replacement soon. ....


What happens is that seal residue from degradation and water accumulates in the area of the cylinder that is not swiped by the piston on a regular basis creating a rough surface capable of damaging the seals. Now, that is not the case every time, but it is easier just to limit the travel and pump few more strokes than risking to have to replace the MC and having to bleed all over again. IMHO

 

[AKhan87]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I'd just run a good quality dot 3 or 4. Dot 4 supposedly absorbs water slightly faster, but both dry and wet boiling temperatures are higher.

So you may want to read the trades on using for 3 vs 4, then just pick one and use it. Best practice is 12-24 months, but plenty of people never flush fluid... So three years is surely fine.


Okay where do I find a pipette as big as the video shows, and also where do I find the clear plastic tubing to bleed all the bleeders into a container?

any links please? I searched and didn't find much.

 

[mene]

Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I'd just run a good quality dot 3 or 4. Dot 4 supposedly absorbs water slightly faster, but both dry and wet boiling temperatures are higher.

So you may want to read the trades on using for 3 vs 4, then just pick one and use it. Best practice is 12-24 months, but plenty of people never flush fluid... So three years is surely fine.


Okay where do I find a pipette as big as the video shows, and also where do I find the clear plastic tubing to bleed all the bleeders into a container?

any links please? I searched and didn't find much.


The pipette is called turkey blaster and can be found at any grocery store, I bought mine at a Dollar General, the hose I have used the ones for aquariums, you can buy the one man kits at auto parts stores and they come with a hose they are cheap and are made to do the job. Did you check for the ATE TYP 200?, it is the only one I have found with a 3 years lifetime.

 

[AKhan87]

please give link for the brake fluid your referring to so I could find prices and availability near me, Thank You.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/otc-f...e+fluid+bleeder the one man kit? that is an absurd price tag...

links would be greatly appreciated as they help me narrow down the references to the items your posting about.

Trust me I am researching as much as I know before asking for help.

 

[mene]

Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
please give link for the brake fluid your referring to so I could find prices and availability near me, Thank You.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/otc-f...e+fluid+bleeder the one man kit? that is an absurd price tag...

links would be greatly appreciated as they help me narrow down the references to the items your posting about.

Trust me I am researching as much as I know before asking for help.


This is one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autoc...e+bleeder+tools

Brake fluid:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=ATE&model=Type+200+Amber+Brake+Fluid
http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATE-Type-200-DOT-4-Brake-Fluid-/360761417059?hash=item53ff0e5d63&vxp=mtr
also most auto parts stores that cater to european cars should have it, it is the most popular brake fluid among them.

 

[mene]

[Trust me I am researching as much as I know before asking for help. [/quote]

I believe you, IDK but when I do research I'm always steered to the same things so it is difficult to find different options or answers, is like somebody or something wants you to get this solution or answer and anything else; you will find that the TYP 200 is everywhere, you will never know unless you are looking for info on a european car, it is my favorite for a non electronic brake system, no ABS,TCS,ESC, etc.