why pay so much for oil?
cheap oil from walmart is your best bet since you have to take out because of the leakage
cheap oil from walmart is your best bet since you have to take out because of the leakage
Amsoil SSO 0W-30, 1993 Civic, 3,007 miles
- Thread starter harry j
- Start date
Voltmaster, I don't do cheap, all I want the best oil I can get and price is not important....helps me sleep at night.
Originally Posted By: harry j
The Eric, I can't find any cracks in the intake system, I silicon sealed the box to hose interface and silicon taped the PCV conection.
I wanted to change the filter in case there was any gaps between the filter housing and filter seal. I didn't see any gaps, but it would only take a small imperfection to allow dirt infiltration.
Silicon is entering the oil from somewhere, I'm just trying to cover all the bases.
As far as silicon, I just have to point out you used silicon sealer on the intake tract. Not only could that be a source, but it could potentialy contaminate your oxygen sensor. The intake is no place for silicon. Perhaps try a worm clamp instead?
I can appreciate your high milage asperations! My Accord of the same generation is getting up there, but I obviously dont drive as much. I wanted to point out that two sources for coolant leaks on these hondas are the fast idle thermo valve ( fitv) on the throttle body, and where the intake manifold connects to the head, as coolant flows between the two with only a gasket holding back the coolant. I realize our engines may be slightly different, but both share hondas obd-1 setup.
Best of luck!
The Eric, I can't find any cracks in the intake system, I silicon sealed the box to hose interface and silicon taped the PCV conection.
I wanted to change the filter in case there was any gaps between the filter housing and filter seal. I didn't see any gaps, but it would only take a small imperfection to allow dirt infiltration.
Silicon is entering the oil from somewhere, I'm just trying to cover all the bases.
As far as silicon, I just have to point out you used silicon sealer on the intake tract. Not only could that be a source, but it could potentialy contaminate your oxygen sensor. The intake is no place for silicon. Perhaps try a worm clamp instead?
I can appreciate your high milage asperations! My Accord of the same generation is getting up there, but I obviously dont drive as much. I wanted to point out that two sources for coolant leaks on these hondas are the fast idle thermo valve ( fitv) on the throttle body, and where the intake manifold connects to the head, as coolant flows between the two with only a gasket holding back the coolant. I realize our engines may be slightly different, but both share hondas obd-1 setup.
Best of luck!
Miles on engine- 385,850
Miles on oil- 5,485
Amsoil AZO 0W-30
Amsoil EAO36 oil filter
Twin Filtermag CT3.2
Golden Eagle magnetic oil drain plug
6 ozs Lubro moly
Added 3/4 quart
Blackstone Labs; Thanks for the note about replacing a cracked cylinder head. That might be why cylinder area metals (aluminum, chrome, iron) are a bit high, due to wear in. Aluminum and iron are high enough to get a mark, but they should decrease on their own over time. Same for silicon, though it has always read a bit high on this engine. Potassium and sodium don't look any better, so keep an eye out for coolant loss. Hopefully the repairs fixed this problem and we'll see this stuff wash out too. The PC was 16/15/13 (the same as last time) and the TBN was strong at 3.4
Code:
[/code]
Aluminum-------------9-----------4 universal average
Chromium-------------3-----------1
Iron-----------------35----------8
Copper---------------3-----------3
Lead-----------------0-----------2
Tin------------------1-----------1
Molybdenum-----------503---------78
Nickel---------------1-----------0
Manganese------------1-----------0
Silver---------------0-----------0
Titanium-------------0-----------0
Potassium------------126---------3
Boron----------------52----------47
Silicon--------------33----------11
Sodium---------------27----------47
Calcium--------------3422--------2169
Magnesium------------14----------117
Phosphorus-----------698---------706
Zinc-----------------766---------828
Barium---------------0-----------0
Miles on oil- 5,485
Amsoil AZO 0W-30
Amsoil EAO36 oil filter
Twin Filtermag CT3.2
Golden Eagle magnetic oil drain plug
6 ozs Lubro moly
Added 3/4 quart
Blackstone Labs; Thanks for the note about replacing a cracked cylinder head. That might be why cylinder area metals (aluminum, chrome, iron) are a bit high, due to wear in. Aluminum and iron are high enough to get a mark, but they should decrease on their own over time. Same for silicon, though it has always read a bit high on this engine. Potassium and sodium don't look any better, so keep an eye out for coolant loss. Hopefully the repairs fixed this problem and we'll see this stuff wash out too. The PC was 16/15/13 (the same as last time) and the TBN was strong at 3.4
Code:
[/code]
Aluminum-------------9-----------4 universal average
Chromium-------------3-----------1
Iron-----------------35----------8
Copper---------------3-----------3
Lead-----------------0-----------2
Tin------------------1-----------1
Molybdenum-----------503---------78
Nickel---------------1-----------0
Manganese------------1-----------0
Silver---------------0-----------0
Titanium-------------0-----------0
Potassium------------126---------3
Boron----------------52----------47
Silicon--------------33----------11
Sodium---------------27----------47
Calcium--------------3422--------2169
Magnesium------------14----------117
Phosphorus-----------698---------706
Zinc-----------------766---------828
Barium---------------0-----------0
Code:
SUS Vicosity @ 210 F--------64.7--------------57-67 SHOULD BE
cST Viscosity @ 100 C-------11.53-------------9.4-12.4
Flashpoint F----------------415--------------->385
Fuel%----------------------- Antifreeze------------------POS---------------0
Water %---------------------0----------------- Insolubles %----------------0.4--------------- TBN-------------------------3.4--------------->1.0
ISO Oil cleanliness code= 16/15/13
>=2 microns-------934 particles
>=5---------------346
>=10--------------95
>=15--------------37
>=25--------------8
>=50--------------0
>=100-------------0Kuato, The original cylinder head developed a leak in the number 3 cylinder that was just getting worse. I was able to determine this when I was changing the spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX). The #3 cylinder plug's threads were encrusted with the anti leak material that I had added.
So far, the antifreeze level in the overflow container has remained at the full mark when cold. I look forward to the next UOA to see if I can extend the oil change intervals. 388,000 miles now.
So far, the antifreeze level in the overflow container has remained at the full mark when cold. I look forward to the next UOA to see if I can extend the oil change intervals. 388,000 miles now.
3,000 miles on new cylinder head now, antifreeze overflow reservoir still at the full line.
Originally Posted By: harry j
3,000 miles on new cylinder head now, antifreeze overflow reservoir still at the full line.
The best available, doesn't mean best for your car.
As far as your spark plugs go, use OEM speced NGK Cooper. The whole timing component depends on it, unless your not running stock ECU/setup.
I used(12 month period) ngk platinum spark plugs on my civic and it idled rough and miss-fired until I installed OEM specced plugs. Not only the car runs smooth since but also better fuel economy.
3,000 miles on new cylinder head now, antifreeze overflow reservoir still at the full line.
The best available, doesn't mean best for your car.
As far as your spark plugs go, use OEM speced NGK Cooper. The whole timing component depends on it, unless your not running stock ECU/setup.
I used(12 month period) ngk platinum spark plugs on my civic and it idled rough and miss-fired until I installed OEM specced plugs. Not only the car runs smooth since but also better fuel economy.
x2 on the plugs. I kept blowing out spark on a Mitsubishi with a large turbo on iridium plugs and then the cheapest copper NGK's made the most power and best idle.
jayg, not having a turbo, I have had no problems with the NGK Iridium IX plugs. The engine idle is good for a Civic (unless the A/C is on).
I like the fact that less voltage is needed to fire them. I checked the distributor cap at 25,000 miles and it was almost like new, I was surprised, it usually needs changing about then.
I like the fact that less voltage is needed to fire them. I checked the distributor cap at 25,000 miles and it was almost like new, I was surprised, it usually needs changing about then.
Originally Posted By: harry j
jayg, not having a turbo, I have had no problems with the NGK Iridium IX plugs. The engine idle is good for a Civic (unless the A/C is on).
I like the fact that less voltage is needed to fire them. I checked the distributor cap at 25,000 miles and it was almost like new, I was surprised, it usually needs changing about then.
??? My distributor cap is original, I actually get better then the suggested fuel economy by EPA, how did you determine 25,000 to be an interval? How did you even test it? Honda's schedule maintenance for the car never asks it to be replaced unless non-functional and they wrote the scheduled maintenance up to 120k.
jayg, not having a turbo, I have had no problems with the NGK Iridium IX plugs. The engine idle is good for a Civic (unless the A/C is on).
I like the fact that less voltage is needed to fire them. I checked the distributor cap at 25,000 miles and it was almost like new, I was surprised, it usually needs changing about then.
??? My distributor cap is original, I actually get better then the suggested fuel economy by EPA, how did you determine 25,000 to be an interval? How did you even test it? Honda's schedule maintenance for the car never asks it to be replaced unless non-functional and they wrote the scheduled maintenance up to 120k.
I read somewhere to check the cap every 25,000 miles. Some where in bad shape before I started using the iridiums.
That's great that you are still able to use the original cap, how many miles do you have on it?
That's great that you are still able to use the original cap, how many miles do you have on it?
I have only used them on distributorless ignitions but I have had caps last well over 100k miles on vehicles. Make sure you are using the right rotor. Some are similar but different enough to wipe the contacts faster.
Originally Posted By: harry j
I read somewhere to check the cap every 25,000 miles. Some where in bad shape before I started using the iridiums.
That's great that you are still able to use the original cap, how many miles do you have on it?
It has ~179k.
I read somewhere to check the cap every 25,000 miles. Some where in bad shape before I started using the iridiums.
That's great that you are still able to use the original cap, how many miles do you have on it?
It has ~179k.
179,000 miles on the original cap?! WOW! my original distributor didn't even last that long. The bearing failed and the whole thing had to be replaced.
390,000 miles now, coolant overflow reservoir still at the full mark
Miles on vehicle: 391,197
Miles on oil: 5,347
Amsoil AZO 0W-30
Amsoil EAO36 oil filter
Twin Filtermag CT3.2s
Golden Eagle magnetic drain plug
5ozs Liqui-moly
Blackstone: There are some notable improvements this time, which makes us wonder, did you fix the coolant leak?
Potassium and Sodium read the lowest on the page, so we put a question mark for coolant. If there is some present, it might just be a trace. Aluminum dropped into the average range, but iron was a little higher this time- not by much, but still enough to show excess wear on steel parts. The particle count was a bit dirty at 22/21/19, but insoluble were fine at 0.4%.
The TBN was good at 2.6, so there was plenty of active additive remaining. Nice improvements!
Code:
[/code]
Aluminum----6---------4 universal average
Chromium----1---------1
Iron--------37--------8
Copper------5---------3
Lead--------0---------2
Tin---------0---------1
Molybdenum--350-------78
Nickel-------0--------0
Manganese----1--------0
Silver-------0--------0
Titanium-----0--------0
Potassium----39-------3
Boron--------54-------47
Silicon------24-------11
Sodium-------14-------46
Calcium------3438-----2159
Magnesium----14-------123
Phosphorus---649------707
Zinc---------751------830
Barium-------0--------0
Miles on oil: 5,347
Amsoil AZO 0W-30
Amsoil EAO36 oil filter
Twin Filtermag CT3.2s
Golden Eagle magnetic drain plug
5ozs Liqui-moly
Blackstone: There are some notable improvements this time, which makes us wonder, did you fix the coolant leak?
Potassium and Sodium read the lowest on the page, so we put a question mark for coolant. If there is some present, it might just be a trace. Aluminum dropped into the average range, but iron was a little higher this time- not by much, but still enough to show excess wear on steel parts. The particle count was a bit dirty at 22/21/19, but insoluble were fine at 0.4%.
The TBN was good at 2.6, so there was plenty of active additive remaining. Nice improvements!
Code:
[/code]
Aluminum----6---------4 universal average
Chromium----1---------1
Iron--------37--------8
Copper------5---------3
Lead--------0---------2
Tin---------0---------1
Molybdenum--350-------78
Nickel-------0--------0
Manganese----1--------0
Silver-------0--------0
Titanium-----0--------0
Potassium----39-------3
Boron--------54-------47
Silicon------24-------11
Sodium-------14-------46
Calcium------3438-----2159
Magnesium----14-------123
Phosphorus---649------707
Zinc---------751------830
Barium-------0--------0
Code:
SUS Viscosity @210 deg. F-----60.7------57-67(should be)
cST Viscosity @ 100 C---------10.41-----9.4-12.4
Flashpoint F -----------------440------->385
Fuel%------------------------- Antifreeze%-------------------?---------0.0
Water%------------------------0.0------- Insolubles%-------------------0.4------- TBN---------------------------2.6------->1.0
ISO oil cleanliness code 22/21/19
>=2microns----69,816
>=5-----------25,867
>=10----------7,161
>=15----------2,765
>=25----------663
>=50----------64
>=100---------3
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WOW your civic engine is wearing like a GM engine, all that iron...in a civic? if your this OCD, why not get a properly built civic engine or rebuild yours?
two of my engines are rebuilt, now I'm rebuilding the Celica GT engine to get to NO oil burning at all, as I'm OCD about oil burning, a properly built Honda/Toyota engine that I have in my cars, shouldn't burn any oil.
My D16Y7 stopped burning oil after getting MaxLife 10w40 since last oil change, now 1200 miles later and the oil is still full, I'm not sure what to think.
two of my engines are rebuilt, now I'm rebuilding the Celica GT engine to get to NO oil burning at all, as I'm OCD about oil burning, a properly built Honda/Toyota engine that I have in my cars, shouldn't burn any oil.
My D16Y7 stopped burning oil after getting MaxLife 10w40 since last oil change, now 1200 miles later and the oil is still full, I'm not sure what to think.
Last edited:
Still no lead, 500k is in sight!
Have you considered a Fram Ultra filter?
Have you considered a Fram Ultra filter?
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