My ATF still isn't red after changing it!

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96 ES300 (Camry) 1MZ automatic

I changed the ATF with Maxlife last week, and the fluid is still showing up on the dipstick as brown and not red!
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The ATF was also changed about 6 months ago (and 5000 miles) with Mag 1 synthetic low-vis, and it wasn't red then either.

Funny though, both times, when I drained it, it came out a fairly dark red but still red.
 
How did you change it?

Drain and fill?
Take out the oil pan, clean the pan, refill then cooler line flush? or any combination?

For 6 cyl Toyota Engine, you need at least 12 qts for cooler line change/flush.

I notice the toyota's trans fluid are not very red after changing but as long as trans does not fail or have burnt smell, I would not worry about it.
 
Last edited:
I plug drain and refill only changes about 35% of the total. You will need to ~ 3 plug drains and refills to achieve ~ 90% new fluid. In addition; you will need to drive ~ 20 miles? between each to throughly mix the fluid. Ed
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
You exchanged a total of how many QTs? You would need around 9 QTs minimum in a cooing line exchange.


Just under a gallon each time.

Originally Posted By: JMJNet
How did you change it?



Drain and fill, through the drain plug.

The transmission does shift nice and smooth, and the fluid doesn't smell burnt at all.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
The transmission does shift nice and smooth, and the fluid doesn't smell burnt at all.


so what's the problem?
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
you will need to drive ~ 20 miles? between each to throughly mix the fluid. Ed
Really? With the amount that flows during the cooler-line flush process, I would think it would be thoroughly mixed with just a few minutes of idling. Having said that, I usually drive around the block when doing multiple drain & fills, but 20 miles seems excessive.
 
You can change it until you have completely clear fluid and that will help, no doubt.

In reality, it's a Toyota transmission. It still has a lot of life left in it.
 
Drain plug drain and fill, as stated above, is only getting a small % of the.fluid. It has ben changed twice in the last 6 mos. In that position I would be inclined to drain and fill every 15k until it comes out a good reddish color, then extend to 30k.

Since it is an older vehicle you seem to be giving it a good cleaning.
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Here's a link to my Partial Drain Calculator Spreadsheet which I feature in a thread in this ATF forum.

You must dowload it for it to calculate for you, it is an EXCEL Worksheet. Dropbox will just show a preview.

I have seen to many people miscalculating the percents and numbers on partial drains and refills on their transmissions.

What folks commonly say is "if I drain 2 of 6 quarts over 3 times, heck I can have a full changeout by the third time..BEWARE! That's not the case... because of mixing, it wont be until the 7th fluid change that you actuially reach a 95% total new fluid.

I used university mathmatics people to design this spreadsheet which is verified as accurate. It gives you percentages, volumes of how much is now old vs. new, it tells you how many partial changes it will take to achieve your desire percent total of new fluid.

Partial Drain Calculator Spreadsheet Link
 
That's a great spreadsheet, thanks. I did a 3x3 and I am at around 80%. I can live with that since I had dealer do a drain and refill with new DW-1 fluid at 20k. I did the 3x3 at 35k 2 weeks ago. It comes out cherry red and cat pee pungent smell just like Amsoil ATF does.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
96 ES300 (Camry) 1MZ automatic

I changed the ATF with Maxlife last week, and the fluid is still showing up on the dipstick as brown and not red!
mad.gif


The ATF was also changed about 6 months ago (and 5000 miles) with Mag 1 synthetic low-vis, and it wasn't red then either.

Funny though, both times, when I drained it, it came out a fairly dark red but still red.


You can't drain the torque converter through the drain plug so half the oil is still in there.

We've done a few auto box oil changes in the past and if we don't have the procedure to drain the torque converter then we drain the sump then refill, start the engine and run it through the gears for a minute to pump the fresh oil into the converter and dirty oil out into the sump and then drain again. We've found this works better than taking it for a drive which mixes the dirty oil in with the fresh too much. I found when i drained it for the second time, when it started to come out it was dirty again then at the very end ran clear, refilled again and drew a line under it.
 
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