Honda ATF Z1 11738 Mi 2006 Ody

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showed heat oxidation visually.

Blackstone labs.
Date 12/31/06
MI on oil 11738
Unit MI 11738
Sample Universal Average
Aluminum 30 25
Chromium 1 1
Iron 66 70
Copper 15 17
Lead 1 4
Tin 1 1
Moly 1 1
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 2 1
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 3 1
Boron 245 199
Silicon 11 13
Sodium 11 7
Calcium 357 366
Magnesium 223 157
Phosph 4 76
Zinc 342 263
Barium 14 4
SUS Viscosity @ 210F = 46.3
Should be 43-51
Flashpoint = 355
Should be >335
Water = 0.0
Should be Insolubles = 0.0
Should be <0.1
 
thanks for your interest in my results. more like dark purple. white paper towel test of side by side sample and virgin Z1 was evident for colr difference. not excessive sediment on the mag-plug. replaced with 4.0 Qt ATF-Z1, did not do 3 back to back d/f.
 
Great A/T UOA!!
bowdown2.gif
I hope my second drain/fill on my A/T looks this at 40K. I plan on having a UOA at that mileage. Did a D/F at 20K.
 
3-4 back to back drain/refills is equivalent to a flush.

The UOA looks good. I don't see it as great. Stick with that 10k drain/refill regimen.
 
UnDummy,

How does one do the back to back drain refills? Do you drive it around for 10 miles or so between each drain and refill? If you were going to do a pan drop to wipe it out and so forth would you wait until just before the last refill or would you do it after the first drain? I am not sure which would be best and you seem to know your stuff. (This would be on a 97 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 with a 4 speed Automatic.) Thanks.
 
Yep, 10 minute drive between each drain/refill is good enough.
Whether you drop the pan 1st or last does not make a difference.
The point of the drain/refill is to use the drainplug and not have to bother with dropping the pan. Of course, if you have >100k miles, you should drop/inspect/clean the pan and filter(if equipped).
 
one more time proved Honda Z1 sucks and the V6 tranny cannot hold up with such fluid, it goes burnt quick and watery

I changed my 02 TL to Amsoil ATF right after i got my tranny replaced and has no problem afterwards
 
with this transaxle poor reliability history, I would definitely consider adding a trans cooler if I had a vehicle with this transmission.
 
Quote:


with this transaxle poor reliability history, I would definitely consider adding a trans cooler if I had a vehicle with this transmission.




it just a waste of money, cooler or no cooler the tranny will still fail, some Acura TL guys put a cooler but doesn't help at all

the real problem is that the tranny is built with a weak clutch pack in 3rd gear, so it's a design flaw and has not much to do with a cooler or not

just give an ATF change every 2 Oil change or per year or per 10000miles would be a good thing, and do a drain and refill 2-3 times per ATF change so u will get a lot more fresh fluids into the tranny
 
VH45DE... Did you also change out the ATF filter???... I have the same year Odyssey, and this summer I am planning to do a ATF change (1st one was at 15000KM), and this summer I will do a ATF change again, and also change out the ATF Filter that our trannys has.. The ATF filter is accessible and it is a cartridge style…
 
It will be interesting to see how the UOA looks after with a combined fluid and filter change..

Originally Posted By: VH45DE
sorry for delay in reply.....
negative cartridge change. trans now at 43k--will prolly change filter at 50k.
 
Originally Posted By: dcoyne78
UnDummy,

How does one do the back to back drain refills? Do you drive it around for 10 miles or so between each drain and refill? If you were going to do a pan drop to wipe it out and so forth would you wait until just before the last refill or would you do it after the first drain? I am not sure which would be best and you seem to know your stuff. (This would be on a 97 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 with a 4 speed Automatic.) Thanks.


You can use the cooler lines.... a guy on You tube shows how to do it very very easy and fast with no mess.

You can see the color change

dark nasty ATF comes out while pouring in new ATF and when the color solid red and nice he is done.

thats the best way IMO

Plus he is using the AT own pump.. so its not using a device to suck or force it out.

Have you seen that video?

HE removes the Outlet line that goes to the cooler.... then blows just blows a lil bit of air to get the fluid out of the cooler..


I did that 1 time and it was not that hard.

but 4 drain and fills is not hard either but I think the way he shows is best
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
To VH45DE: Are you going with Honda's DW-1 or something else? Kira


Isnt the Honda DW-1 a better ATF then the Z-1 ???
 
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