Remove air filter for better MPG?

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hi,

i have ford pinto engine and 32/26 dgav weber carb.

my mpg is kind of low
and i think my cheap paper filter blocks air and causing rich mixture and get low mpg

i'm planning to do this
remove my air filter in cap
i mean this
http://www.tekford.com.tr/backoffice/pic...11006_large.jpg

leave cap without filter, and apply air entarance with curtains, cover from leaves, bugs etc.

incoming fuel is fixed with afr screw on carburator
and i will make more air and mixture will lean, and better mpg
(i think my mixture richer than 14.7 now)

this is my theory
i searched too much, k&n and other staff wont make a difference but how about without filter ?

waiting your advices,

Thanks.
 
I am too young to know enough about that kind of air setup, but I can tell you that silicon (dust) inside engine oil can act like little metal pieces and scrape the [censored] out of inside, in high levels of course.

cannot recommend it,
if your having issues with intake I'd try to find the issue. If you cant leave it unless you really dont care about longevity of engine and hoping to get every last "penny" from higher MPG.

Probably worth the try if you dont live near desert area. I mean its free.
 
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I wouldn't. That's one of the cases where it might be worth considering a K&N. Nonetheless, I don't think you'll notice a huge difference with a regular paper filter, a K&N, or nothing at all.
 
Leave it alone, leave the air filter on.

I think the AFR screws are just for idle mix; if you want to change cruise you need to re-jet the carb.

However it sounds like your carb is just plain tired and needs a rebuild.

Make sure your choke is pulling off all the way.
 
Swap that junk emissions weber for a 350cfm holley two bbl and watch mileage and performance climb. Leave the air filter off and watch how fast it starts using oil
 
I think it is a bad idea. You need a proper filter on the air intake, not a home made screen.

I remember guys doing this back in the '70s when I was in high school for the same reason you gave - to get more power and improve fuel consumption. I never saw anyone gain meaningful power or better fuel efficiency just from removing an air filter.

If you do remove the filter you can be certain your engine will ingest everything smaller than "leaves, bugs etc." in the intake air, and then real engine wear will begin. You will not like the result of that.
 
No. Bad idea. A little bit of resistance is good. I've found when the intake and exhaust move too fast,without a bit of resistance the exhaust goes lean and it get "poppy".
Maybe affects the velocity of airflow?
Spitballing.
 
Bad idea.

The carburetor was originally jetted with the air filter installed. If you take off the air filter, the mixture will go leaner. Put in a new air filter, and make sure the carb is working right.
 
The carb has to be running at optimum or else you won't get decent power or fuel economy. Tune that first. In a quest for excellent fuel economy, your accelerator pedal should be pressed as little as possible. This means your throttle plates should be more closed than open. Your throttle plates provide way more restriction than any other part of the intake system, filter included.

As been said, no filter is a no no. Unless you want to rebuild your engine as often as drag racers do, keep it on.
 
everyone says, dont do this

ok, i wont remove my filter and not put my self in action for 1mpg and 1hp

and what about aftermarket filters ?

af085ab1-df92-4025-980f-f2000710e4cb.jpg


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Redline-32...8-/281257274487

open pod will make difference, my traditional paper filter ?
 
Originally Posted By: Dogan
i will kiss my engine if i reach 25mpg


I was referring to the extra +0.25 MPG (if lucky) while running with no filter. It's not worth the risk.
 
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there is misunderstanding...

my mpg is really low, around 20mpg
i will kiss my engine if i hit 25mpg
smile.gif


for fuel injection engines difference might me minimal but carburated engines ?

ECU know less air, less fuel

Carburator spray same amount of gas even fully clogged or no filter

i think there would me much difference but how much ?

may it lower from 20lt/100km to 15lt
 
Originally Posted By: Dogan
may it lower from 20lt/100km to 15lt

I don't think you'll find anywhere near that significant of a difference. As you point out, a carb is different than fuel injection. However, going from a reasonable air filter to no air filter will not save you 5 litres per 100 km. If your Pinto is doing 20 L/100 km, there is something desperately wrong with the carburation, rather than airflow.
 
Visit ecomodder.com where they advise you on ways to make your current ride get better fuel economy.

1) http://ecomodder.com/forum/fuel-economy-mpg-modifications.php ... modifications from mild to wild. You could probably benefit from a warm air intake, front air dam, side skirts, partial grill block, smooth wheel covers, air up tires to at least 36-38psi...just to start. Nothing will make a bad carb tune better thi...get that first.

2) http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php ... tips on how to drive more economically...once again from mild to wild. Driving style has more to do with fuel consumption than any other factor.
 
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Originally Posted By: Motorking
Swap that junk emissions weber for a 350cfm holley two bbl and watch mileage and performance climb.


Baloney. It's sometimes amazing the mis-information that appears on the internets.
Weber carburetors are precision instruments with a wide variety of jets and emulsion tubes etc. to tailor the carb to the engine.
Parts can be changed in a few minutes with the carb on the engine.
There's books dedicated to setting up Webers for street or racing use.
The DGAV is not an "emissions" carb. It's a customizable unit sized for medium displacement 4-cylinder engines.
A 350cfm Holley would be way too big for this application and have poor driveability.
I ran a DGEV (electric choke) on an '81 Accord for many years.
I adjusted the jetting (lean primary + rich secondary) to get better MPG than stock with an aftermarket cam and exhaust header.

At one time the MPG dropped drastically so I opened up the carb to see what was going on.
Turned out a little piece of gasket had fallen into an emulsion tube.
Cleaned it out and all was well.

The DGxV carbs (and most newer carbs) vent to the area inside the air cleaner, so filter and intake restriction is compensated for.
Filter restriction will NOT make them run richer.
 
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Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: Motorking
Swap that junk emissions weber for a 350cfm holley two bbl and watch mileage and performance climb.


Baloney. It's sometimes amazing the mis-information that appears on the internets.
Weber carburetors are precision instruments with a wide variety of jets and emulsion tubes etc. to tailor the carb to the engine.
Parts can be changed in a few minutes with the carb on the engine.
There's books dedicated to setting up Webers for street or racing use.
The DGAV is not an "emissions" carb. It's a customizable unit sized for medium displacement 4-cylinder engines.
A 350cfm Holley would be way too big for this application and have poor driveability.
I ran a DGEV (electric choke) on an '81 Accord for many years.
I adjusted the jetting (lean primary + rich secondary) to get better MPG than stock with an aftermarket cam and exhaust header.

At one time the MPG dropped drastically so I opened up the carb to see what was going on.
Turned out a little piece of gasket had fallen into an emulsion tube.
Cleaned it out and all was well.

The DGxV carbs (and most newer carbs) vent to the area inside the air cleaner, so filter and intake restriction is compensated for.
Filter restriction will NOT make them run richer.


thank you and all, i will keep my air filter maybe buy open type air filter i gave link above

and @circuitsmith
may i ask, how to adjust first barrel run economic and second barrel run rich for performance
3236dgv+jetting+001.jpg


i have secondary carburator which same 32/36 using on my car
im trying to figure out
primary and secondary main jets fully tightened
if i loose them i make them lean ?

and same question for idle jets

if i loose so much they removing from their place
 
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