5W-40 All year round?

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To use 5W-40 in an older gas engine to reduce oil consumption is fine. However, to use 5W-40 in a brand-new gas engine that recommends 5W-30 as the preferred viscosity is simply misguided.

Chances are that you will not notice any difference in wear with 5W-30 or 5W-40 if both are allowed by the car maker. What you will notice is a small hole in your pocket. In my case, I saw 7% difference in fuel economy between 5W-30 and 15W-40 for gentle driving. For fast driving and acceleration, the fuel-economy benefits will be a lot less. However, even with a 3% difference, using 5W-40 would result in $100 more in fuel costs for 15,000 miles a year. Why would you throw away $100 knowing that 5W-40 does no good to your car? Even if it was only $50, it still makes no sense.
 
I realize that there is somewhat of a common perception that thicker is better, but one aspect to what oil is for gets overlooked occasionally. Think back to those I.E. classes in middle school and high school (for those of us that took them). Oil's purpose is not only for lubrication, but for cooling also. Oil absorbs heat. Now, a thinner viscosity oil will shed that heat faster than a higher viscosity oil. I have not been convinced, for some time, that using the max viscosity the OEM has on their recommendation charts is always a good thing. While CAFE standards are part of why OEM's are specing lighter oils, heat dissipation is an equal part of the mix. This is the primary reason that GM just took their newer engines to 5w20 oils and increased capacities to 8.5 qts (at least on the pickups). I am convinced, they finally pulled their brain out of a dope fogged stupor and realized that part of the problem with their AFM lifters was due to thicker oils not dissipating heat quick enough that it was coking in the lifters.

just another angle on the viscosity issue.
 
Specific heat of oil is pretty well a constant...pumps are positive displacement...how does a thinner oil move more heat ?

Just asking...
 
Use the 5w40 without issue if Hyundai says you can. IMO Gokhans experience of 7% loss of fuel economy is very unusual. Around 1-2% would be more realistic.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Specific heat of oil is pretty well a constant...pumps are positive displacement...how does a thinner oil move more heat ?

Just asking...

Two things:

(1) It's about the flow rate -- more the flow, more the heat removed. Flow rate is proportional to the pressure and inversely proportional to the viscosity. There is a relief valve at the oil pump that limits the pressure and flow rate will be smaller for high RPMs for a thicker oil, as the oil pressure will max out.

(2) Thicker oil has more hydrodynamic friction and runs hotter. It's the same effect that reduces the fuel economy: the reduction of fuel economy goes to heating the oil -- known as conservation of energy.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
(1) It's about the flow rate -- more the flow, more the heat removed. Flow rate is proportional to the pressure and inversely proportional to the viscosity. There is a relief valve at the oil pump that limits the pressure and flow rate will be smaller for high RPMs for a thicker oil, as the oil pressure will max out.


See that's the problem with taking engineering "soundbites" and playing them back.

That's the equations for flow in a hose, from a bucket, not from a positive displacement pump in an engine.

The flow IS the flow in an engine, however, you are right that the pump relief can limit the flow TO the engine...if it's in relief.

The statement was that thinner oil carries away more heat is not related to hose/bucket flow, nor to bypass operation.

when the bypass is closed, oil viscosity has no bearing to the amount of heat removed from components...

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
(2) Thicker oil has more hydrodynamic friction and runs hotter. It's the same effect that reduces the fuel economy: the reduction of fuel economy goes to heating the oil -- known as conservation of energy.


Yep, I agree...there are plenty on here who disagree that there's a temperature rise in bearings, and that bulk oil temperature is not representative of what's occuring in the bearings, but that's another issue.

...3-4C IN THE BEARING would be the max difference likely in an IC engine going from 5W-30 to 5W-40, and I doubt it would ever be that much given that 10-20C is the likely total temperature rise in a bearing. As the viscosity drops, the eccentricity ratio increases, and film thickness decreases, making the friction very non-linear...

however, the statement I was questioning was that thinner oil carries away more heat, not generates marginally less heat in itself.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
See that's the problem with taking engineering "soundbites" and playing them back.

That's the equations for flow in a hose, from a bucket, not from a positive displacement pump in an engine.

The flow IS the flow in an engine, however, you are right that the pump relief can limit the flow TO the engine...if it's in relief.

The statement was that thinner oil carries away more heat is not related to hose/bucket flow, nor to bypass operation.

when the bypass is closed, oil viscosity has no bearing to the amount of heat removed from components...


The bypass is open most of the time. Pretty much anything above idle. Otherwise the pressure would go to several hundred psi at redline.

I don't see a lot of mechanical aptitude in your posts. The last time we discussed this I had to remind you the oil pump has a bypass.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Specific heat of oil is pretty well a constant...pumps are positive displacement...how does a thinner oil move more heat ?

Just asking...


In my post, I referenced that a thinner oil will dissipate heat... you know, shed heat that has built up in the oil... faster than a heavier oil in the same application. I did not say it moved more heat, though that might be possible, depending on flow rate, since it is shedding the acquired heat faster. Higher vis oils will retain heat longer than lower vis oils.

Think we got caught up in what heat was being dissipated... the acquired heat in the oil itself, or the heat from the component. I was referring to the former.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette


The bypass is open most of the time. Pretty much anything above idle. Otherwise the pressure would go to several hundred psi at redline.

I don't see a lot of mechanical aptitude in your posts. The last time we discussed this I had to remind you the oil pump has a bypass.





Just so we are all on the same page here:

Oil pump rotational speed, and by extension of that, volume, correlates with engine speed. The pump has a pressure controlled relief valve that begins to open when the pressure, observed upstream of the pump, reaches a predefined point.

An engine's oil system will only "consume" a particular volume of oil oil at a given temperature at a given pressure. That is, since viscosity correlates with temperature, back-pressure from the engine has an inverse relationship with that; as oil temperature rises, viscosity drops. Which means that as viscosity decreases, less pressure is created by pumping a given volume of oil through the engine.

On a cold engine with thick oil, equipped with an 80psi pump relief, it may very well hit the relief at 1,500RPM. This does not mean that the relief flies open like a flood gate on Niagara falls though, it simply means that the relief valve opens enough to regulate the pressure to 80psi. On some engines, even with the relief wide open (I've seen this on an SBC with an HV pump and 15w-40 in it) the volume moved by the pump overcomes the ability of the relief to flow it and you see oil pressure well in excess of the relief pressure on the pump.

As the engine warms and viscosity drops, so does the resistance provided by the engine. This means that resistance for a given volume (RPM) decreases. Which is why you see less oil pressure when an engine is warmed.

On a stock pumped SBF with a relief at 65PSI, it wasn't unusual for my car, with 0w-40 in it, to sit at around 60psi on a cold start high idle (1,500RPM) and you could literally watch the pressure drop as the oil warmed. This resulted in about 35psi hot at idle (~185F coolant temps) and you were into the relief by around 4,500.

With 0w-20 in the pan, the same engine was around 50psi on a cold start, 32psi hot at idle, and into the relief by around 5,500RPM. But to be fair, I never really beat on it with the 0w-20 in it, so I'm sure oil temp was never as high as it was with the 0w-40. The 0w-20 was my "winter" oil, so ambient temps were much cooler as well.

I've observed the same thing with SBC's, as well as BBM's and a Ford Y-block (only have one data point for that last one unfortunately). Where it wasn't usual to see somebody sitting on the relief was with the guys using 20w-50 in an SBC or SBF with a High Volume oil pump. This was on an engine with stock clearances. Never understood that one
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So I don't agree with your premise that the pump relief is open most of the time. Perhaps on certain engine families that is the case (we've discussed this before on here and IIRC there were certain Mopar engines, running the spec viscosity oil that were on the relief frequently) but at least in my experience, running something in the neighbourhood of the spec viscosity on a warmed up engine, relief events only happen at the top of the RPM scale. So unless you are cruising down the highway at 6,000RPM, the relief is probably closed most of the time, LOL!

Of course that excludes warm-up where the relief will be approached more readily for a given volume of oil due to its increased viscosity and people running oil three grades heavier than spec, like 20w-50 in their F-body
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I appreciate all the input, I'm assuming if they list that oil than it must be safe to use in my engine. They even went so far as to recommend 5W-40 for improved vehicle performance it in the 2011 Manual, see the second to last paragraph.

My manual doesn't have this paragraph but still lists 5W-40, I honestly think it's a fuel economy issue. Remember Hyundai had that MPG fiasco over a year ago, they had to drop the Elantra to 38 from 40MPG. I'm not say it's directly related, but it might have something to do with why the manual was changed. Perhaps they didn't want customers complaining to them about fuel economy.

oil1e.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
To use 5W-40 in an older gas engine to reduce oil consumption is fine. However, to use 5W-40 in a brand-new gas engine that recommends 5W-30 as the preferred viscosity is simply misguided.

Chances are that you will not notice any difference in wear with 5W-30 or 5W-40 if both are allowed by the car maker. What you will notice is a small hole in your pocket. In my case, I saw 7% difference in fuel economy between 5W-30 and 15W-40 for gentle driving. For fast driving and acceleration, the fuel-economy benefits will be a lot less. However, even with a 3% difference, using 5W-40 would result in $100 more in fuel costs for 15,000 miles a year. Why would you throw away $100 knowing that 5W-40 does no good to your car? Even if it was only $50, it still makes no sense.


I would say your gas mileage cut is from the 15w rating.

I use 0w40 and get over 32 mpg with my Genesis coupe. That being said though it's thicker than I need for daily driving as it will hit the high pressure relief of 75 lbs at 7k rpm.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Specific heat of oil is pretty well a constant...pumps are positive displacement...how does a thinner oil move more heat ?

Just asking...


Thinking about the environment inside of an oil cooler:
Lower viscosity means higher Reynolds number --> better convective heat transfer.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
To use 5W-40 in an older gas engine to reduce oil consumption is fine. However, to use 5W-40 in a brand-new gas engine that recommends 5W-30 as the preferred viscosity is simply misguided.

Chances are that you will not notice any difference in wear with 5W-30 or 5W-40 if both are allowed by the car maker. What you will notice is a small hole in your pocket. In my case, I saw 7% difference in fuel economy between 5W-30 and 15W-40 for gentle driving. For fast driving and acceleration, the fuel-economy benefits will be a lot less. However, even with a 3% difference, using 5W-40 would result in $100 more in fuel costs for 15,000 miles a year. Why would you throw away $100 knowing that 5W-40 does no good to your car? Even if it was only $50, it still makes no sense.

I would say your gas mileage cut is from the 15w rating.

As I said, 7% improvement was for "gentle" driving, almost hypermiling. For more regular driving or fast driving, improvement would be a lot less. Also, as you said, 15W-40 has an HTHSV ~ 4.3 cP vs. 5W-40 HTHSV of ~ 3.9 cP, and the fuel economy correlates mostly with HTHSV.

So, for more regular driving, I would expect a fuel-economy benefit of 2 - 3% when swtiching to 5W-30 from 5W-40. Note that 5W-30 is an ILSAC GF-5 oil and 5W-40 is not but SN-only; so, 5W-30 will also have a lot more friction modifiers. You get some help from the friction modifiers in addition to the HTHSV. You may save $50 - 100 annually in fuel costs.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Specific heat of oil is pretty well a constant...pumps are positive displacement...how does a thinner oil move more heat ?
Just asking...

Thinking about the environment inside of an oil cooler:
Lower viscosity means higher Reynolds number --> better convective heat transfer.

Yup, just like the computer CPU fan spinning faster -- it generates faster air flow and more convection, and CPU gets cooler. When the viscosity is lower, you get faster oil flow and more convection, and the engine gets cooler.

As I said, thicker oil also generates more heat in the bearings because of more hydrodynamic friction (drag). This is an additional effect that leads to a even hotter oil and engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I'd go with the 40 wt year round.


Exactly how I feel, there are days were I drive the car hard, very hard.


I doubt it is harder than how Hyundai tested your car.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
I appreciate all the input, I'm assuming if they list that oil than it must be safe to use in my engine. They even went so far as to recommend 5W-40 for improved vehicle performance it in the 2011 Manual, see the second to last paragraph.

My manual doesn't have this paragraph but still lists 5W-40, I honestly think it's a fuel economy issue. Remember Hyundai had that MPG fiasco over a year ago, they had to drop the Elantra to 38 from 40MPG. I'm not say it's directly related, but it might have something to do with why the manual was changed. Perhaps they didn't want customers complaining to them about fuel economy.

oil1e.jpg


Ah, the Hyundai engineers...

Instead of "for improved vehicle performance", they should have said "for more protection in high performance". Thicker oil doesn't generate improved vehicle performance. In fact it reduces the horsepower and results in less vehicle performance. However, if the engineers think that you need a thicker oil to protect the bearings in high-speed scenarios because it's a turbo engine -- it packs more specific power density and oil runs hotter because of the turbocharger -- it's fair.

So, if they are actually recommending 5W-40 over 5W-30 for better protection in high-speed driving, give them the benefit of doubt and use 5W-40 (or 0W-40). It's funny that there is no such thing as ILSAC GF-4/GF-5 5W-40 -- they are all SM- or SN-only.

In my opinion though, a quality fully synthetic SN/GF-5 5W-30 is the best choice for this turbo application (less oil oxidization and evaporation with full synthetic at the turbo, cooler engine with thinner oil, and probably still sufficient wear protection).
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Gokhan - You said this;

"5W-30 will be a lot thinner than 5W-40 with a cold engine; therefore, it will offer better protection with a cold engine. Moreover, 5W-40 will put unnecessary strain on your oil pump at all temperatures. Use 5W-40 only if you are mostly driving the car in extreme speeds or in high speeds climbing mountains."

Can you provide any verifiable substance to these claims and suggestions?



Hi Doug,

I doubt you will ever get a decent answer to your question! But as some posters have it written here, many of us that own German cars are doomed because the xW40 oils that are specified are seriously hurting our engines, especially when cold, and will greatly reduce their life expectancy. Just as the engineers that designed them desired
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On the +'13s Genesis Cope turbos they raised the OK to Boost oil temp to 180F. You can barely get the oil to 160F in the winter. The came out with an ECU update but people in Canada will not get to even use the full boost for the winter time. My 201o has a 150F oil temp cut off.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
I may just keep my car on 5W-40 all year round if analysis yields good results.

It should offer the same protection as 5W-30 since they are both 5W oils right?? Just want to be sure I'm not missing something.

I did search the forums but saw some mixed results on what to use during the winter.




There is absolutely no issue with your continued use of 5W40. Obviously, you can always choose a 0W40 as well such as Mobil 1 / Castrol / Redline / etc. to further extend your cold starting capability (if you ever intend to start your vehicle at -40!!!). German Castrol 0W30 (or now Belgian Castrol should I say) is also suitable with an HTHS of > 3.5 cP, and will perform similarly to the euro 40 grade oils as it meets several of the same specifications.

Enjoy your ride!
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
(1) It's about the flow rate -- more the flow, more the heat removed. Flow rate is proportional to the pressure and inversely proportional to the viscosity. There is a relief valve at the oil pump that limits the pressure and flow rate will be smaller for high RPMs for a thicker oil, as the oil pressure will max out.


See that's the problem with taking engineering "soundbites" and playing them back.

That's the equations for flow in a hose, from a bucket, not from a positive displacement pump in an engine.

The flow IS the flow in an engine, however, you are right that the pump relief can limit the flow TO the engine...if it's in relief.

The statement was that thinner oil carries away more heat is not related to hose/bucket flow, nor to bypass operation.

when the bypass is closed, oil viscosity has no bearing to the amount of heat removed from components...




Thank you Shannow. The thing that most people can't see is that with a positive displacement pump, energy input is not a constant, which is a primary condition of using the above mentioned equation for calculating fluid pressure/flow relationships. With a positive displacement pump, if the oil is more viscous, it requires more HP to turn the pump at a given RPM... Same flow rate though (give or take a small amount accounting for any slip / leakage).

I can't remember how many times I've said the same thing on here at the risk of sounding like a broken record. No idea why the huge fixation on oil bypass all the time. Bearings generate their own internal pressures (by spinning) that are orders of magnitude higher than oil delivery pressure. Side leakage with more viscous oils is less thus requiring less "make-up" oil, therefore raising delivery pressure, and possibly causing the bypass to open. But surely, the bearings are well lubricated regardless. And of course, you already know that
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