2010 Toyota Corolla

[fresham]

I have a 2010 Corolla with a 1.8 L 4-cylinder (2ZR-FE) engine with 87,000 miles. I'd love to hear some feedback on what oil would work best for me. My goal is to keep this thing running as well as I can, as long as I can. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and I'll put as much effort into regular maintenance as can be beneficial.

Owners manual oil info:
Capacity: 4.4 qt.
Grade: ILSAC multigrade engine oil
Viscosity: SAE 5W-20 or SAE 0W-20 (0W-20 is recommended for fuel economy and starting in cold weather.)
Interval: 5,000 miles or 6 months

I live in Southern Illinois, so in the winter it can get down to 0°F and up to 100°F in the summer (That's the extreme, not the average.) On average, it's around 20° during the winter and °90 in the summer, but generally pretty temperate throughout the year.

I have a 40-mile commute to work, so I drive at least 80 miles per day (I plan to move soon, so hopefully that will go away). I tend to accelerate a bit hard and I drive 65-70 mph on the interstate. Then just a couple miles of 35-40 mph city driving. Also, I live in a small town, so we usually drive 15 miles or so to do things like grocery shopping or going out for food. I don't spend a much time driving in town or on shorter trips.

I have no problems with the powertrain that I know of. I do have a tire with shallow treads, but I'll be replacing it soon. Also, I'm having a very intermittent problem with what I'm guessing is the CV joint, but I have to look into that more. And, the starter occasionally grinds when its cold. I lubed the gear with some graphite (which helped some), but I haven't been able to take it out and bench test it yet. It doesn't happen very often and I saw no visible wear on the gear when I inspected it, but I'm prepared to replace it or rebuild it if it really starts acting up.

And, I just recently noticed that it won't shift into 4th (I think) when it's cold. I live right off of a main road where the speed limit is 45 and it will get up to 3000-3500 RPM and not shift at that speed. I try to let it run for at least a minute before getting on that road, and I accelerate very gently into it. Usually, I don't even go that fast because of it (and seeing as there's a stop about a half-mile down the road).

As a side note, this is my wife's car and I just recently (the last year or so) picked up maintenance on it. She had taken it to the dealer religiously, but I checked out the report after she took it in and saw that they were overcharging her, fudging the numbers on brake caliper measurements, spilling oil all over the engine, and more.

I would really appreciate any feedback and tips that you all might have. Thanks!

 

[Gokhan]

The oil specified for that car is TGMO 0W-20 SN and the OCI specified is 10k miles / 1 year. I wouldn't use anything else. I had the same car (2009 model). The reliability is excellent but it has a weird, vague steering at the center.

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The oil specified for that car is TGMO 0W-20 SN and the OCI specified is 10k miles / 1 year. I wouldn't use anything else. I had the same car (2009 model). The reliability is excellent but it has a weird, vague steering at the center.


The owner's manual online (from their site) suggests 5k or 6 months: http://i.imgur.com/dSsZCQE.png

There's nothing in their online documentation that directly says that, but that's what the maintenance log shows. Also, that's when the maintenance light comes on.

I've never tried the TGMO, but I've just been reading about how great it is, so I will definitely just use that. Last change I did, I used Royal Purple. My parents are both car people and that's what they always used. Where's the best place to get TGMO? Online?

 

[threeputtpar]

For the TGMO, try the dealer that was servicing the car prior to you taking over. Sounds like they owe you some, so maybe they'll throw you a bone on pricing. Usually internet purchases are a good price for the oil but the shipping kills the deal.

In all reality, if you're going to stick to the 5k miles change interval any conventional 5W-20 will be more than adequate. Pennzoil or QS seem to be the current favorites now, but any will do.

With the amount of highway driving you're doing now, even 7500 miles wouldn't be out of the question. When you do move closer and your commute shortens, go back to 5k mile OCIs.

 

[Gokhan]

They later changed it and 0W-20 is the only recommended oil. 5W-20 is no longer recommended:

http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM12C22U/pdf/sec_06-01.pdf

I think with TGMO 0W-20 SN full synthetic, you can go 10k miles with this car. You can reset the maintenance reminder at 5k miles and then go another 5k miles. Nevertheless, it's up to you. I wouldn't attempt 10k miles with Mobil 1 0W-20 SN, as it contains a lot of magnesium detergents and the TAN (acid level) may increase too much with 10k miles as a result.

You can only get the TGMO 0W-20 SN from the dealer. You should negotiate for the best price, just like buying a car. Under $6 is a good price. They could also give you a discount if you buy a case of 12. MSRP is $7.24:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

 

[fresham]

Gokhan, since you have experience with the vehicle, what oil filter would you recommend? I have no kind of knowledge about filters, except for which one fits.

 

[HangFire]

Fresham, welcome to BITOG.

I have the same car, I put a lot of miles on it, almost to 100K now. I've been using Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE with no complaints and genuine Toyota filters I buy in bulk. It gets 32-35MPG. Since it is under warranty I change it at 5K according to the reminder light. In the near future I will try Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 for the Summer and Mobil 1 EP 0w-20 in the Fall.

My local dealer is not known for great parts prices, but they do have TGMO and oil filters on special often for good prices. Start there.

No problems with the starter, I am chasing a small highway speed shimmy in the front end that comes and goes. I've had the wheels balanced and alignment checked and nothing unusual was found. I'll check the CV joints.

Mine also is slow to shift into 4th when cold, especially in cold weather. Since it warms up quickly the problem goes away quickly. I've already started an ATF replacement drain-n-fill cycle on it, and next cycle will also replace the ATF filter (yes it's a filter, not a screen). While there is no scheduled maintenance on the ATF, the manual does say to check it every 5K miles, so I checked it and I don't like the amount of metal debris in the fluid, which is otherwise bright red and smells OK.

Supposedly there is a Toyota bulletin allowing 10K changes for our vehicles. Since it is a direct descendent of a known sludger engine, I'm not keen on 10K changes, but I may slack off from 5K a bit once the warranty is gone.

 

[tig1]

TGMO 0-20 is a sugestion, not a requirement. Tgmo is made by M1(XM) for Toyota. I live close to you in Illinois, and can say M1 0-20 works great in my Ford I4s. As you can see I do 10K OCIs, and this oil works great for that OCI.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: fresham
Gokhan, since you have experience with the vehicle, what oil filter would you recommend? I have no kind of knowledge about filters, except for which one fits.

The filter is cartridge-type and located under the car. Get it from the dealer -- it's about $4. It comes with an O-ring. You unscrew the housing, remove the old cartridge, apply oil on the new O-ring, replace the O-ring, and reinstall it. Also, when you get the filter from the dealer, don't forget to get an OEM drain-plug gasket and change it every time. Note that you might have to raise the car a little. I was able to do it without raising the car but it was a long stretch and I was doing it without seeing it -- only feeling it.

Here are the official instructions I had posted:

http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21542-2009-corolla-18l-oil-filter/?p=157329

Note that back then, I was using M1 0W-20 SM because I didn't know better, but now, I use TGMO 0W-20 SN.

 

[fresham]

Awesome. Thanks for being so thorough! I really appreciate the info.

I did just let it go too long without an oil change (10.5k on Royal Purple), so I feel like I need to make it up to it.

But, since it can go that long, it's not as bad as I thought. I'll probably plan to change it around 7.5/8k. Is that a false economy? Will I just be wasting money by doing it a bit early?

I probably will go to the dealer and negotiate for some of that oil. I don't care about an extra 50 cents or $1 per quart, but I'll make sure I get a reasonable price. I went in after the last incident and confronted them. I imagine they didn't anticipate my wife checking their work. It was obvious that they knew they were caught taking advantage.

 

[fresham]

Thanks! Again, I greatly appreciate the thoroughness. I'll get some of those at the dealer too. Might as well stock up on both.

 

[Bandito440]

I had a 2005 with the 1.8 a few years back. It was good, basic transportation.

Pick a synthetic 0w-20 that's easy for you to acquire. Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Quaker State, Castrol, Valvoline, etc.

Napa has their synthetic on sale now for $3.49/qt. I just picked up 24 quarts. Their house brand synthetic is generally believed to be Valvoline Synpower in a Napa bottle. You can reserve it online for in-store pickup. You'll be hard pressed to find a better deal on 0w-20. Each case holds 12 quarts.

The Toyota filters are okay. If you end up buying the oil at Napa, you might as well pick up a matching quantity of Napa Gold filters. They're Wix with a Napa label, and a fine choice for the money.

I'd run it to 7,500 miles, and get a UOA if you want to go farther than that.

You're due for a replacement of transmission fluid if you haven't done that already. I like Maxlife ATF as a replacement for Toyota WS. Here is my experience.

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Fresham, welcome to BITOG.


Thanks! I love it so far. One of the most helpful forums I've ever used.

Originally Posted By: HangFire
I have the same car, I put a lot of miles on it, almost to 100K now. I've been using Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE with no complaints and genuine Toyota filters I buy in bulk. It gets 32-35MPG. Since it is under warranty I change it at 5K according to the reminder light. In the near future I will try Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 for the Summer and Mobil 1 EP 0w-20 in the Fall.

My local dealer is not known for great parts prices, but they do have TGMO and oil filters on special often for good prices. Start there.


I'll probably switch to the Toyota oil and filters, so I'll just go into my local dealer and stock up.

Originally Posted By: HangFire
No problems with the starter, I am chasing a small highway speed shimmy in the front end that comes and goes. I've had the wheels balanced and alignment checked and nothing unusual was found. I'll check the CV joints.


The starter usually only has problems when it's really cold. Luckily, the starter is fairly easy to replace and/or rebuild. I think I'll try to just rebuild it first, strictly for the experience. I've heard some anecdotal evidence that this is not an uncommon problem in Corollas.

I don't think I've noticed any steering issues in it. As for the CV, it makes a click/shuddering noise every once-in-a-while. I can usually only recreate it on one specific road where I turn onto our street (from that main road) and hit a bump. I also have to be going a decent speed (30-40 mph) to make it happen.

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Mine also is slow to shift into 4th when cold, especially in cold weather. Since it warms up quickly the problem goes away quickly. I've already started an ATF replacement drain-n-fill cycle on it, and next cycle will also replace the ATF filter (yes it's a filter, not a screen). While there is no scheduled maintenance on the ATF, the manual does say to check it every 5K miles, so I checked it and I don't like the amount of metal debris in the fluid, which is otherwise bright red and smells OK.


Yeah, I'm not too worried about the shifting thing because it goes away very quickly, just like you said.

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Supposedly there is a Toyota bulletin allowing 10K changes for our vehicles. Since it is a direct descendent of a known sludger engine, I'm not keen on 10K changes, but I may slack off from 5K a bit once the warranty is gone.


Yeah, I feel similarly. I'll probably do 7500 OCI for now and see how it goes. Especially since this is my first foray into going above 5k on any car.

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Napa has their synthetic on sale now for $3.49/qt. I just picked up 24 quarts. Their house brand synthetic is generally believed to be Valvoline Synpower in a Napa bottle. You can reserve it online for in-store pickup. You'll be hard pressed to find a better deal on 0w-20. Each case holds 12 quarts.

The Toyota filters are okay. If you end up buying the oil at Napa, you might as well pick up a matching quantity of Napa Gold filters. They're Wix with a Napa label, and a fine choice for the money.


That is a heck of a deal. I'm sure it would work just fine, too.

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I'd run it to 7,500 miles, and get a UOA if you want to go farther than that.


That's my plan for now. I've never done a UOA. I didn't even know it was a thing until now. After a bit of looking, that seems really awesome and I'm actually kind of excited about being able to be that familiar with how the car is performing. Thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
You're due for a replacement of transmission fluid if you haven't done that already. I like Maxlife ATF as a replacement for Toyota WS. Here is my experience.


My wife was still taking it to the dealer at 60k, so it got the 60k treatment from the dealer. I'm pretty sure that included transmission fluid replacement, but I'll double check the documents to be sure.

 

[Gokhan]

Sure! Regarding the wrench, I had bought an aluminum wrench but I have never used it. I had an old plastic wrench that has worked well. You can see if the dealer has some aftermarket wrench. I don't think you can find the OEM wrench (part no. 09228-06501), which looks like this:

If you do a UOA, make sure to get both TBN and TAN.

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Sure! Regarding the wrench, I had bought an aluminum wrench but I have never used it. I had an old plastic wrench that has worked well. You can see if the dealer has some aftermarket wrench. I don't think you can find the OEM wrench (part no. 09228-06501), which looks like this:

Surprisingly, I was able to find the exact filter wrench at my local AutoZone for like $8. The last time I changed the oil, I couldn't get the filter cap off. My wife had to take it to Dobbs before that because I didn't get a chance to change it. I figured it was just because I tried to do it cold, but Valvoline confirmed that most shops tighten that kind too tight. They had to really work it to get it off. The manager said they even keep spare caps around just in case they have to break it to get it off. Since I'll be doing the maintenance myself from now on, I probably won't have that problem. But I'll likely acquire a spare cap just in case it does stick, so I don't have to worry about breaking it. It's just a plastic cap, so they're probably not too expensive either.

 

[Gokhan]

Definitely do not overtighten it and don't forget to use oil on the O-ring. Specified torque in the official instructions should be OK. I never had problem removing it because I bought the car new and always did the oil change myself.

The cap is about $40 I think. There is no need to buy a spare if you have a good wrench.

With the canister-type oil filters, I never use a wrench to tighten them -- I always only hand-tighten them and I do not use a wrench when tightening. It's a trick I learned from an oil-change tech a long time ago. With these caps though, you need a wrench to tighten them because you can't grab them by hand.

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Definitely do not overtighten it and don't forget to use oil on the O-ring. Specified torque in the official instructions should be OK. I never had problem removing it because I bought the car new and always did the oil change myself.

The cap is about $40 I think. There is no need to buy a spare if you have a good wrench.

With the canister-type oil filters, I never use a wrench to tighten them -- I always only hand-tighten them and do not use a wrench. It's a trick I learned from an oil-change tech a long time ago. With these caps though, you need a wrench to tighten them because you can't grab them by hand.


That's a good point. I don't really expect to have a problem from now on.

 

[Gokhan]

Note that you're more likely to pay the MSRP than the online price. Since this particular dealer is nearby, I can order online and then pick up will-call without the shipping fee.

Filter cartridge with O-ring:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

Drain-plug gasket:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

Cap:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

 

[fresham]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Note that you're more likely to pay the MSRP than the online price. Since this particular dealer is nearby, I can order online and then pick up will-call without the shipping fee.

Filter cartridge with O-ring:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

Drain-plug gasket:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915

Cap:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.c...p;siteid=214915


My dealer's site doesn't have a part search, but that's a good reference point for what I should be paying at least. Like I said, I'm not gonna be cheap or pushy, I'm just gonna make sure they don't try to rob me on it.