Barrel life

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Now, I am totally confused...

So, if the rod picks up abrasive material from the bore that would wear the bore, wouldn't the bullets pick up the same abrasive material? At far higher velocity, with a tight fit, they would wear the bore far more than a lightly pressured cleaning rod.

So, cleaning, then, still reduces wear by removing that material, right?

In that case, I don't see how barrels are worn out by cleaning...it just doesn't make sense to me...shooting wear, I can see, but cleaning wear?
 
You're confused about how abrasive material on a object ran back in forth on another object can create additional wear?
 
Originally Posted By: Sonataman
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Originally Posted By: Sonataman
.22 rimfire barrel life is a lot shorter than most people think. In as little as 5k rounds, the 6 oclock area already has a little checking and some erosion. It comes from all the left over powder and primer mixture laying at 6 o'clock in the barrel and every round pounds over it. The primer mixture contains a nasty and very abrasive mix, with glass.

Now, the barrel will still stabilise the bullet for a very long time, but ultimate accuracy is gone before 10k rounds in most cases.

And THAT is the question and the answer, barrel life is only as long as you consider it good enough for your needs...


Tell that to Eley regarding the test guns they use to check accuracy of the .22 ammo they manufacture.

They obviously have no idea what they are doing.


All you have to do is ask any top level rimfire benchrest shooter. I was never at the top but competed 4 years.
Won a good few club matches and even shot high target (target #8) at the ARA nationals.
My good friend is many time national champ in several disciplines and is also a World Champion.



So you're saying/claiming the folks that make Olympic ammo and the ammo the benchrest shooters use know little about barrel life, OK, if you say so.

From the Lilja site regarding .22 rimfire barrels

Quote: The best life can be expected from the 22 long rifle barrels with 5000-10,000 accurate rounds to be expected. We have in our shop one our drop-in Anschutz barrels that has 200,000 rounds through it and the shooter, a competitive small-bore shooter reported that it had just quit shooting.

Of course center fire is a whole different animal.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
You're confused about how abrasive material on a object ran back in forth on another object can create additional wear?


IMHO the force is insignificant compared to swagging spiral grooves into a solid copper clad lead slug with 25,000+ psi of expanding gas. There is plenty of debris left in a barrel to get caught between the bullet and the barrel.

How many times are steel casings slammed into the chamber area of weapons by large springs without ill effect?

People use brass hammers on steel without deleterious effect.

The idea that a soft aluminum or brass rod will damage a bore with typical barrel debris doesn't pass the smell test.

Solders with steel rods against the crown might be a different story.
 
These guys know a little about barrels.

Quote:
You should use a good quality one piece coated cleaning rod with a freely rotating handle and a rod guide that fits both your receiver raceway and the rod snugly. How straight and how snug? The object is to make sure the rod cannot touch the bore. With M14/M1 Garand barrels a good rod and muzzle guide set-up is especially important as all the cleaning must be done from the muzzle. Even slight damage to the barrel crown is extremely detrimental to accuracy.

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com
 
Also relevant to this thread.

Quote:
SERVICE LIFE:



Quite often we get asked about the service life of a barrel or “How long will my barrel last?”. The truth is a complicated result of many factors, ultimately service life is determined by a combination of cartridge, cleaning practices, shooting style, etc. A barrel is “Shot Out” or at the end of it’s service life when the throat erosion has resulted in the bullet no longer able to be seated to touch the lands and still remain in the case by a reasonable amount, and heat checking/cracking has progressed several inches forward of the throat. These are the normal determining factors that cause a degradation in accuracy from when the barrel was ‘fresh’ or new. Cartridge choice, powder selection, pressure (a combination of powder selection/amount, bullet weight, and cartridge design), and cleaning procedures will ALL have an effect on how long of a service life your particular barrel has. No two pieces of barrel steel will have the same exact properties either. We can give an “average” barrel life for a particular cartridge if it is a common one used in competition, but that is no guarantee of any round count due to all of the listed factors above. Most cartridge designs larger than .223 Rem or .308 Win in powder capacity to bore ratio will begin to erode the throat measurably in less than 1000 rounds.

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: hatt
You're confused about how abrasive material on a object ran back in forth on another object can create additional wear?


IMHO the force is insignificant compared to swagging spiral grooves into a solid copper clad lead slug with 25,000+ psi of expanding gas. There is plenty of debris left in a barrel to get caught between the bullet and the barrel.

How many times are steel casings slammed into the chamber area of weapons by large springs without ill effect?

People use brass hammers on steel without deleterious effect.

The idea that a soft aluminum or brass rod will damage a bore with typical barrel debris doesn't pass the smell test.

Solders with steel rods against the crown might be a different story.


Yeah, that makes sense to me.

This statement: "Not many do. More, excluding .gov/.mil, barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting." doesn't really make sense to me. More barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting...I just don't see it.

That would be an extreme cleaning to shooting ratio...abrasive particles or not...to wear out more barrels by cleaning.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: hatt
You're confused about how abrasive material on a object ran back in forth on another object can create additional wear?


IMHO the force is insignificant compared to swagging spiral grooves into a solid copper clad lead slug with 25,000+ psi of expanding gas. There is plenty of debris left in a barrel to get caught between the bullet and the barrel.

How many times are steel casings slammed into the chamber area of weapons by large springs without ill effect?

People use brass hammers on steel without deleterious effect.

The idea that a soft aluminum or brass rod will damage a bore with typical barrel debris doesn't pass the smell test.

Solders with steel rods against the crown might be a different story.


Yeah, that makes sense to me.

This statement: "Not many do. More, excluding .gov/.mil, barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting." doesn't really make sense to me. More barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting...I just don't see it.

That would be an extreme cleaning to shooting ratio...abrasive particles or not...to wear out more barrels by cleaning.


It isn't the solvent that is used to clean the barrel that is the problem it is usually the rod, and not using a bore guide. People damage the crown and rifling buy using metal rods that are screwed together and not using a bore guide. 1 piece coated rods like Dewey rods are the safest to use alone with a good bronze jag, and a bore guide. A sectioned metal rod flexing in the bore can easily damage the rifling. The problem arises where the rods are joined. The crown can get damaged by pushing the jag way past the crown then nicking it pulling it back through the barrel and out of the chamber again. Bore snakes are great for novice shooters.

I used to talk to a lot of Bench Rest shooters and many of them claim the most damage done to barrels was by novice shooters cleaning them wrong. It made a lot of sense when it was explained to me. Keep in mind most shooters don't shoot sub MOA groups so they might not notice barrel problems until they get real bad.
 
You naysayers clean your barrel however you want. People worried about their barrel's performance clean them a certain way. Sure if you have a $279 Walmart special and use it once a year to shoot a deer at 50 yards cleaning isn't a big deal. Why you'd want to haphazardly clean an expensive rifle you'd want to shoot tiny groups is beyond me.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
You naysayers clean your barrel however you want. People worried about their barrel's performance clean them a certain way. Sure if you have a $279 Walmart special and use it once a year to shoot a deer at 50 yards cleaning isn't a big deal. Why you'd want to haphazardly clean an expensive rifle you'd want to shoot tiny groups is beyond me.


Where did I say any of that? I don't clean haphazardly. I clean carefully. I don't own a single cheap gun of any kind. My guns (rifles and pistols) are meticulously maintained. I shoot often. Yesterday, in fact, I had a Glock, Beretta, AR-15 and M1 at the range.

As an experiment this morning, I cleaned my Garand with a bore snake. Subsequent patches run through came out dirty. The shape of the receiver precludes running a patch from the chamber forward, like I usually do, so I carefully ran them from the muzzle back using my brass rod and keeping it from hitting the crown.

Bore snakes are fine for a quick clean at the range or in the field, but they don't get the barrel truly clean. At least, not for me...

And I still don't see how those cotton patches with solvent, or CLP, do more damage to the bore than the bullets themselves...which was, in fact, your earlier claim.

Now, jam a steel brush into the bore with a steel rod? Sure, I can see that doing more damage than shooting...but being careful? Just don't see it.
 
Last edited:
Did you reads the posted link? I suppose you know more than barrel makers. Maybe you should e-mail them to set them straight.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hatt
Did you reads the posted link? I suppose you know more than barrel makers. Maybe you should e-mail them to set them straight.






Read them before. Read them again this time. Familiar with Kreiger barrels. I agree with Kreiger - correct cleaning is critical for barrel life. If what you said was true, that cleaning wears out more barrels than shooting, then Kreiger wouldn't be recommending cleaning.

But in fact, proper cleaning is critical to break in, accuracy and barrel longevity. Proper cleaning is what they're describing. In breaking in my LR-308 (which shoots MOA or better) I followed the process recommended by DPMS and it mirrors Kreiger's recommendations. Lots of cleaning...proper cleaning....

You said that cleaning wears out more barrels than shooting.

I disagree. I think that IMPROPER cleaning will wear out barrels. I think that proper cleaning is essential.

It's clear that Kreiger agrees with my contention. So, there's no need for me to write to them...
 
Few shooters clean a barrel the way Kreiger recommends.

Don't believe it? Go to a deer camp sometime.

Anyone who has been in basic training back in the 60's for sure understands how the barrel can be worn out from cleaning.

Have no idea how training and weapon cleaning is taught today.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14


You said that cleaning wears out more barrels than shooting.


Where did I say that? You're so interested in trolling you have no idea what I said.

What I said.
Originally Posted By: hatt
Not many do. More, excluding .gov/.mil, barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting.

And then I said
Originally Posted By: hatt
The cleaning rod without a bore guide is the culprit.

That's not up for discussion.

You and your couple of buddies can troll the missing airliner thread with the phantom pings but guns are my arena. You're out of your league.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: Astro14


You said that cleaning wears out more barrels than shooting.



Originally Posted By: hatt
The cleaning rod without a bore guide is the culprit.

That's not up for discussion.

You and your couple of buddies can troll the missing airliner thread with the phantom pings but guns are my arena. You're out of your league.


Hope you're not including me as "one of the buddies", I agree with you.
 
Sounds to me like you guys at this point are essentially saying the same thing
21.gif


I don't think this discussion is so dire that it deserves the attitude that is being shown at this point guys. Might be time for a relaxing cold one
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit


Hope you're not including me as "one of the buddies", I agree with you.

Not at all.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It isn't the solvent that is used to clean the barrel that is the problem it is usually the rod, and not using a bore guide. People damage the crown and rifling buy using metal rods that are screwed together and not using a bore guide. 1 piece coated rods like Dewey rods are the safest to use alone with a good bronze jag, and a bore guide. A sectioned metal rod flexing in the bore can easily damage the rifling. The problem arises where the rods are joined. The crown can get damaged by pushing the jag way past the crown then nicking it pulling it back through the barrel and out of the chamber again. Bore snakes are great for novice shooters.

I used to talk to a lot of Bench Rest shooters and many of them claim the most damage done to barrels was by novice shooters cleaning them wrong. It made a lot of sense when it was explained to me. Keep in mind most shooters don't shoot sub MOA groups so they might not notice barrel problems until they get real bad.

This is true; I have also spent a LOT of time with bench rest shooters and done some bench rest shooting myself. Multi-sectioned rods are pure junk (if you are concerned about the health of the barrel). While Dewey coated rods are fine when they are new, over time they become worthless too. The coating becomes impregnated with grit/abrasive and the coating flakes off leaving you with a rod that is nearly as bad as a multi-sectioned one. In the past 5 years or so I have dumped all of my Dewey rods and started using carbon fiber rods like the ones sold by Tipton. The handles are so much better than Dewey (I have large hands) and they feel much more sturdy.

The other issue with cleaning is allowing the rod to go out the end of barrel and then partially back inside (even if it is to only bump the end). Aside from the jag possibly hitting/snagging the barrel, the patch is loaded with crud and over time can have a "compounding" effect on the crown, thereby causing the barrel to be less accurate. I have also reduced the use of brass brushes (NEVER use a stainless brush on a bore), and have turned to using nylon brushes. In my experience, if the barrel is becoming so fouled that a nylon brush and patches will not clean it, then the powder/bullet combination needs to be examined or the barrel is too rough on the inside (which usually means it is not very accurate anyway). I use Hart barrels exclusively (I have used Shilen and Krieger in the past too), and my patches "squeak" when I run them through the bore--I have rarely if ever heard that on an OEM barrel.

To the OP's original thoughts, barrel life can vary depending on many factors. Some cartridges are more prone to throat erosion and barrel wear--particularly those that are "over bored" such as the WSSM family, .220 Swift, .22-6MM, belted magnums, most of the larger Weatherby cartridges, and the like. TBT many reloaders go for the "max load" (which can accelerate the wear) and it is not needed and in many cases is not the most accurate load.

Just my $0.02...
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It isn't the solvent that is used to clean the barrel that is the problem it is usually the rod, and not using a bore guide. People damage the crown and rifling buy using metal rods that are screwed together and not using a bore guide. 1 piece coated rods like Dewey rods are the safest to use alone with a good bronze jag, and a bore guide. A sectioned metal rod flexing in the bore can easily damage the rifling. The problem arises where the rods are joined. The crown can get damaged by pushing the jag way past the crown then nicking it pulling it back through the barrel and out of the chamber again. Bore snakes are great for novice shooters.

I used to talk to a lot of Bench Rest shooters and many of them claim the most damage done to barrels was by novice shooters cleaning them wrong. It made a lot of sense when it was explained to me. Keep in mind most shooters don't shoot sub MOA groups so they might not notice barrel problems until they get real bad.

This is true; I have also spent a LOT of time with bench rest shooters and done some bench rest shooting myself. Multi-sectioned rods are pure junk (if you are concerned about the health of the barrel). While Dewey coated rods are fine when they are new, over time they become worthless too. The coating becomes impregnated with grit/abrasive and the coating flakes off leaving you with a rod that is nearly as bad as a multi-sectioned one. In the past 5 years or so I have dumped all of my Dewey rods and started using carbon fiber rods like the ones sold by Tipton. The handles are so much better than Dewey (I have large hands) and they feel much more sturdy.

The other issue with cleaning is allowing the rod to go out the end of barrel and then partially back inside (even if it is to only bump the end). Aside from the jag possibly hitting/snagging the barrel, the patch is loaded with crud and over time can have a "compounding" effect on the crown, thereby causing the barrel to be less accurate. I have also reduced the use of brass brushes (NEVER use a stainless brush on a bore), and have turned to using nylon brushes. In my experience, if the barrel is becoming so fouled that a nylon brush and patches will not clean it, then the powder/bullet combination needs to be examined or the barrel is too rough on the inside (which usually means it is not very accurate anyway). I use Hart barrels exclusively (I have used Shilen and Krieger in the past too), and my patches "squeak" when I run them through the bore--I have rarely if ever heard that on an OEM barrel.

To the OP's original thoughts, barrel life can vary depending on many factors. Some cartridges are more prone to throat erosion and barrel wear--particularly those that are "over bored" such as the WSSM family, .220 Swift, .22-6MM, belted magnums, most of the larger Weatherby cartridges, and the like. TBT many reloaders go for the "max load" (which can accelerate the wear) and it is not needed and in many cases is not the most accurate load.

Just my $0.02...


Good info. With regard to the Dewey rods, I keep mine clean and get good service out of them. However if I see or feel any indication of wear or anything suspect with the rod it would get tossed and replaced. The bottom line is this: If you have a rifle you care about learn how to properly clean it, and use good tools to do it. There are other good cleaning rods on the market, Dewey is one of a few. I consider it a wear item and should have made that clear! Screw together sectional metal rods are garbage and can damage a barrel, especially when used w/o a good bore guide and in the hands of a novice barrel cleaner.
 
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