Leaking fuel at pressure regulator - gm 3.1 v6

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Noticed a gas smell coming in the cabin and looked under the hood and my pressure regulator is leaking.

Found this video online for a 3.4L v6 that should be exactly the same. Video says i need 2x 15/16 wrenchs and a torx bit.

Biggest questions are is this a pretty straight forward job as far as depressurizing the fuel rail then just going at it with the tools? I guess i might need to use my PB blaster?

Also do i need to buy an OEM part for this, because oem is $61 on rockauto and the cheapest on rockauto is $24. Not sure if they are all created equal but it looks like a pretty simple piece; just a spring and diaphragm right?

Maybe its leaking due to my techron addiction? I am about 60 miles into my 12 oz dose on a full tank of 93 octane and it seems coincidental to say the least . Maybe this is why my MPG is so poor and i have the o2 sensor code also?
 
The ACDelco 17113622 is $51 on amazon and i have a Prime Trial, so i will probably be ordering from Amazon to get my vehicle up and running faster, but the Delphi FP10020 is about $42 and says "actual oe part" , not sure if the Delco is worth the extra $10 or if there is any difference at all?

Maybe someone could chime in on that matter.
 
Originally Posted By: cknight49090
I would order the cheapest one from rock auto or wherever there wont be a difference.


I thought that but i read a few reviews about cheap ones for my exact application that said the cheap one failed
 
The one on closeout is made my Standard they make very good products its not like its an off brand at all.Thats the one I would buy no second thoughts.Use the 5% off too.
 
I don't know if the brand will matter for this part or not. But the one time I tried ordering a Delphi part (a MAP sensor), I paid a premium for it believing it would be higher quality, and a better match to the original. Instead, the part I received was made in China, unlike anything that was ever original on the car. Why bother, if I wanted a Chinese part I can get those for half the price Delphi charges to slap their name on it.
Everybody calls their parts "OE", but I don't take Delphi as seriously since then.
I'm not saying you should get the cheap one - I just don't know. But lacking any evidence from people who have bought the particular part, I wouldn't assume that the "Delphi" part is necessarily any different than the others.
 
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Based off all the positive reviews and previous experience with cheaper parts i got the ACDelco 17113622 off Amazon. I may have gotten the standard motor part off Rockauto, but i need this up and running asap and i already have the amazon prime. To match the 2 day shipping on Rockauto i would be at around $40, so i went with the Delco.

I guess i shouldn't have expected a ton of quick replies this late at night but i tried.

If anyone has done this job before and has any advice to offer i would appreciate it.
 
It really is as simple as it looks. Although not necessary, it'll feel a lot safer doing this with a cold engine because you will spill some fuel. The little screw you need the torx for has threadlocker on it so don't be too surprised by the torque needed to crack it loose.
 
Do you have a fuel pressure tester? If the pressure is in spec then your other code is unrelated. Certainly a bad upstream o2 sensor can affect mpg.
 
I recall most GM cars would have a Schrader valve for testing fuel pressure, and it can be used to de-pressurize the system so it doesn't shower you in gas when you break the seal on the lines. Just stuff some rags under the valve to catch the fuel that will come out and use a valve core tool to loosen it slowly and release pressure.

It might be a good idea to replace the vacuum line that runs to the regulator as it may have been exposed to fuel now.
 
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The regulator is leaking, there is no need to release fuel pressure. Fuel additives didn't cause the leak, it's a common failure on the 31/3400s.

Replace with a decent brand though.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
Do you have a fuel pressure tester? If the pressure is in spec then your other code is unrelated. Certainly a bad upstream o2 sensor can affect mpg.


Fuel leaking through the regulator up the hose, and into the intake plenum causes a rich running condition especially at cyl # 5 but not so much at say, cylinder #2. This directly harms fuel economy. Uneven fuel distribution means that all cylinders will be running without feedback based fuel control and the oxygen sensor functions in a manner similar to a magic 8-ball except that the magic 8-ball doesn't get coated in black gunk from the poorly running engine.
 
It does have the valve to release pressure on the rail but I think it should be fine with just pulling the fuel pump fuse and running on to dead.

Looks like I'm going to have to get some cheap 15/16 wrenches that I'll only use one time.
 
Okay guys i am totally screwed, i got the old pressure regulator bracket off, and worked the o-ring part out but i can't get the part to turn at all to remove it from the metal fuel line! There is absoulutly no room to get a 15/16 wrench in there or a pair of pliers to turn this thing. One end i am smacking the fuel rail, the other end i am smacking the end of the intake manifold where the TB bolts to it!

It looks like i am going to have to remove the intake manifold, but i called Car X and they only quoted $183 for the total job with a standard motor regulator, i asked did that include the removal of the intake manifold, they said "you don't have to remove it" , but they won't tell me how to do it so i am stuck now.

There not even enough room to get the old one back in so i could at least drive it across the road to the mechanic! Any advice?

Oh and here is a picture of the AC Delco part i received off amazon, it looks nothing like the picture either. It also has some tooling marks on it so i guess they re build these and just strip them down to bare metal or re plate them?

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It's FIXED!

Thanks for the suggestion, but that probably wouldn't have helped. The problem was not exactly getting the wrench on the regulator, but having enough room to turn it at all. I managed to wiggle a little slack in the fuel line and pull the whole regulator/fuel line up a few centimeters to get the room to break the old one loose.

When i finally did get the room to turn the regulator, i managed to smash the hard plastic line going to the PCV valve into a few pieces, but nothing a spare rubber hose and some gorilla tape couldn't fix. I also noticed that the rear valve cover PCV fitting is very melted and loose fitting, so i hope i can find that odd piece online somewhere.

Anyways, i got the job done, no leaks, seems to be working great.

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It's very common for that rear breather fitting to be loose. The part should still be available- but as a set. I believe GM calls it a manifold. Comes with the PCV tube, MAP/fuel pressure tube, breather tube and the vacuum modulator tube... At least mine did.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Duct tape on the PCV tube isn't going to work for long.



It's gorilla tape .

I have a piece of stiff rubber hose there, the tape is just helping seal it.
 
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