2003 Hyundai elantra

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Hello everyone at btog just purchased a Hyundai elantra with 100,00km on the dial .
From fist service it has used castrol magnatec 15-40 professional with 5-10,000km intervals looking threw the filler cap it looks very varnished and has hard carbon around the oil cap hole.
The plan is to run penrite hpr5 5-40 full synth at 6month oci .
Is there anything else to look out for or replace on these cars
Thank you
smile.gif
 
Timing belt/pulleys/water pump. It's due right at 100k km. That's an interference engine, so if it snaps it takes valves out with it. Also, those cars like to eat emissions valves. It's a pain to replace the purge solenoid, despite its being out in the open.

Aside from that, it's a good little car and should soldier on for many more years.
 
Thank you for your reply
smile.gif
I'm very fortunate that it's already done this car is actually for my father he has cancer purchasing this car will make his life better as his current car has two doors and makes shopping and moving small things around difficult
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Timing belt/pulleys/water pump. It's due right at 100k km. That's an interference engine, so if it snaps it takes valves out with it. Also, those cars like to eat emissions valves. It's a pain to replace the purge solenoid, despite its being out in the open.

Aside from that, it's a good little car and should soldier on for many more years.


That vintage Elantra should be a very good, durable car. I would run A-RX or a couple of shorter synthetic OCI's to clean it up a bit.

I have a 2008 Elantra which I belive has the same Beta engine. What 'emissions valve' are you refering to? (I'd like to keep an eye on it).
 
Why are you using 15w40? Or even 5w40? I understand it's hot in Australia but it's hot where I live too, many people use 0w20 here too.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Why are you using 15w40? Or even 5w40? I understand it's hot in Australia but it's hot where I live too, many people use 0w20 here too.


Different regulations, etc. Even if it's a heavier weight, it still provides adequate protection.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Why are you using 15w40? Or even 5w40? I understand it's hot in Australia but it's hot where I live too, many people use 0w20 here too.


'cause that's what Hyundai tell people to use in countries that aren't CAFE driven ???

In the owner's manual no less...and no silly viscosity grade stamped into the oil cap just to make sure that people do it...

My parent's Elantra has been Magnatec SP 5W-40, but with Dad gone, Helix Ultra when it's on special, as Mum and 20L drums don't play.

The Penrite "synthetic" is a GrIII, but that's fine at the price-point.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Why are you using 15w40? Or even 5w40? I understand it's hot in Australia but it's hot where I live too, many people use 0w20 here too.

You're absolutely right, the OP would be better off running a 5W-30 if not a 0W/5W-20. There is no technical justification for a 40 grade oil other than the engine, as most engines, will tolerate the heavier lube at the expensive of fuel economy and performance.
 
15w-40 is for diesel motors. Had a friend put it in his 24 valve V8 Mercedes motor, and it toasted it. You should be using 5w-30 or 5w-40. Or if you idle a lot in hot weather... 10w-30 in my book. Just do what the owners manual says. Don't second guess the engineers (I should talk).
 
Originally Posted By: jsinton
15w-40 is for diesel motors. Had a friend put it in his 24 valve V8 Mercedes motor, and it toasted it. You should be using 5w-30 or 5w-40. Or if you idle a lot in hot weather... 10w-30 in my book. Just do what the owners manual says. Don't second guess the engineers (I should talk).



I really doubt that 15w40 toasted that MB motor. Most of them call for 40 weights.

Also in the original posters climate, that's not a terrible oil to use.

If you have access to a 5w40 or a Mobil 1 0w40, that would be my call.
 
Originally Posted By: jsinton
15w-40 is for diesel motors. Had a friend put it in his 24 valve V8 Mercedes motor, and it toasted it. You should be using 5w-30 or 5w-40. Or if you idle a lot in hot weather... 10w-30 in my book. Just do what the owners manual says. Don't second guess the engineers (I should talk).


15W-40 is a viscosity, it has nothing to do with Gas/diesel.

The rest of the oil formulation makes it gas/diesel/fleet.

Aside, 15W-40 didn't toast anything...
 
The 5W-40 should be just fine, although a 5W-30 would be as well.
Nothing wrong with a 15W-40 either.
I'm not sure how cold it gets during your current winter season, but I doubt that you see the kind of cold we see here.
I may have had 5W-30 or 0W-20 in all of the cars in winter use here, but we saw a winter low of -12F this past season and a number of mornings below zero, so even those grades weren't exactly thin at startup.
My point is that at warmer ambients, these thicker grades are probably thinner than are the thin grades in real cold.
If the engine appears dirty internally, a few short runs of any decent oil should help.
Ensure that the PCV valve is functioning and that any hoses to or from it are clear.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The 5W-40 should be just fine, although a 5W-30 would be as well.
Nothing wrong with a 15W-40 either.
I'm not sure how cold it gets during your current winter season, but I doubt that you see the kind of cold we see here.
I may have had 5W-30 or 0W-20 in all of the cars in winter use here, but we saw a winter low of -12F this past season and a number of mornings below zero, so even those grades weren't exactly thin at startup.
My point is that at warmer ambients, these thicker grades are probably thinner than are the thin grades in real cold.

It's not just about greatly improved cold start performance with the lighter grades. And when I say cold start performance I'm not talking just about sub-freezing temp's but room temperature. The advantage of a high VI OEM 0W-20 over a 5W-20 very much applies at typical start-up temp's not just at below freezing temp's.
And yes there is plenty wrong with using the archaic PCMO 15W-40 in a low powered engine for which a 0W/5W-20 provides all the high temperature protection you will ever need.
But as they say, ignorance is bliss. Since the preferred grade is not generally available at a reasonable price not many will ever know what they're missing.
 
Welcome back, Caterham!
While I may be blissful, I'm not among the ignorant, in that I've run a variety of grades in my engines over the years.
I really don't see any particular difference in ease of starting, fuel eceonomy or general engine performance between lighter oils and those a grade heavier.
There is a theoretical difference, but it's so small as to be undetectable in practice.
Nothing wrong with optimal, but the difference between it and something less is often vanishingly small.
 
Originally Posted By: Testoprop
Currently there is penrite 5-40 full synth
on sale at both local auto suppliers is this a decent oil ?


Penrite 5W-40 synthetic is GrIII "synthetic", but that doesn't make it bad for it's price point...$20 more and you can have Shell Helix Ultra, $5-10 less and you can have Penrite diesel 5W-40 blend

VI is 173, which isn't far off M1 0W-40 in reality.
 
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