So my check engine light came on for my 95 buick century 3.1 v6 and mechanic hooked up his scanner and the egr code came up so he said to replace the egr valve but i read online u can try cleaning it first without dumping money into it so how do i go about that? and if that doesnt work and i buy a new one do i just take the old one out and put the new one in and im good to go or i have to do something else?
How do i clean the egr valve on my 95 buick centur
- Thread starter boostedtsiawd
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ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I always pull it off and use carb and chock cleaner. At least that is the way I did it on my old TBI 454 and 4.3. Used it on my TDI as well to clean all the carbon out of the intake and exhaust gas cooler.
^ +2
The pintle will be covered with carbon, just poke it with a screwdriver while spraying carb cleaner into its various holes until it springs freely.
Might not work for long but it's super cheap and easy. That said I usually get a year or two or more from the same valve on my saturn.
The pintle will be covered with carbon, just poke it with a screwdriver while spraying carb cleaner into its various holes until it springs freely.
Might not work for long but it's super cheap and easy. That said I usually get a year or two or more from the same valve on my saturn.
so just remove the egr valve and spray it down with carb cleaner then install it back? should i let it dry first?
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
You may have to do a bit of scraping with a screw driver. I would get a new gasket if the old one is beat up. I always let mine dry, but it dries quick!
freakin mechanic trying to charge me $200 with labor just cause thats what the scanner read i mean sht he couldve just said let me clean it for you for $30 and see how it goes.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Was that labor with the part? You have to figure even if he pulls it and cleans it, he is into it for about 1 and a half hours.
Lets say 80 bucks an hour, plus materials and tax.
To quote a line from Joe Dirt...
"Maybe one day UNICEF will get into the impound business...
but until then, we're the people to see."
Substitute car repair for impound.
Lets say 80 bucks an hour, plus materials and tax.
To quote a line from Joe Dirt...
"Maybe one day UNICEF will get into the impound business...
but until then, we're the people to see."
Substitute car repair for impound.
yea he said parts n labor $200
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I have replaced a few EGR's that did not correct the code.Its like a catalytic converter code if its running good i wouldnt worry about it.
Originally Posted By: boostedtsiawd
freakin mechanic trying to charge me $200 with labor just cause thats what the scanner read i mean sht he couldve just said let me clean it for you for $30 and see how it goes.
Sounds reasonable to me, parts and labor.
I'm sure your mechanic has been burned plenty a time by people who say they just want their car halfway repaired. The same people who want it half done are the same ones that return constantly until the mechanic gives in and fixes it right for free even though they understood in the first place that the original repair might not function well.
If you want it done cheaply, just do it yourself.
You'll probably need a new gasket when you put it back together. A wire bristle brush will work well to clean it, they even make small ones the size of a toothbrush.
freakin mechanic trying to charge me $200 with labor just cause thats what the scanner read i mean sht he couldve just said let me clean it for you for $30 and see how it goes.
Sounds reasonable to me, parts and labor.
I'm sure your mechanic has been burned plenty a time by people who say they just want their car halfway repaired. The same people who want it half done are the same ones that return constantly until the mechanic gives in and fixes it right for free even though they understood in the first place that the original repair might not function well.
If you want it done cheaply, just do it yourself.
You'll probably need a new gasket when you put it back together. A wire bristle brush will work well to clean it, they even make small ones the size of a toothbrush.
well i unplugged the positive terminal to clear the code so if it comes back ill mess with it or get it fixed.
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Oh i forgot to mention the day before the check engine light came on they replaced my spark plugs, wires n fuel filter can any of these things cause that egr cell to come on maybe the fuel filter or spark plugs they installed are faulty?
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I can't imagine any of that stuff would cause it.
I had a SIMULAR thing happen on my '02 Explorer.I took it to advance auto and they pulled the EGR fault code. So I read a little about it online. What I found was they said 99% of the time it's not the actual EGR valve, but the sensor that reports to the computer, to light the light. I shopped around and found they wanted between $60-$80 for the EGR valve, and $22 for the switch. Me being the cheapskate I am, bought the switch. I put the switch in, removed the battery cable , hooked it up, then started the car. The check engine light was out and hasn't come back on in about a year. There are ways of actually checking the EGR valve, but I didn't have anything to use as a tester. So I guess it was cheaper to buy the cheap part, then spend money on a tool I'll use once in my lifetime.,,
This is 3100 SFI engine with aluminum heads, right? Note that an EGR insufficient flow code is very rarely caused by a problem with the EGR valve itself. What are the more common causes of an EGR low-flow code?
1) Clogged passage in the intake plenum.
This is extremely common and is the real problem 80%-90% of the time. The exhaust gasses rapidly cool while flowing through this passage and crud drops out causing a clog. To test: remove the EGR valve and start the engine. It will make loud exhaust noise; don't worry about that. If the engine starts easily and the idle speed is close to normal you have a clog. With the EGR valve removed, remove also the throttle body, then mechanically clean out the little tunnel that runs between the EGR valve and the throat of the plenum.
2) Wire broken at the EGR valve electrical connector.
This causes maybe 2/3 of the EGR insufficient flow codes that aren't the result of a clog. Usually the wire breaks off right at the connector which is easy to see if you try moving the wires. Sometimes they break inside the insulation up to an inch away; to check for this hold each wire between your thumbnail and index finger and drag along the wire feeling for a thin spot. Another thing that can happen is that someone performing a repair fails to properly secure the wiring harness into place and the wires contact the exhaust crossover pipe and burn through/ground out. You can check this visually by looking at the exhaust crossover pipe.
3) Faulty EGR valve.
4) other problem
1) Clogged passage in the intake plenum.
This is extremely common and is the real problem 80%-90% of the time. The exhaust gasses rapidly cool while flowing through this passage and crud drops out causing a clog. To test: remove the EGR valve and start the engine. It will make loud exhaust noise; don't worry about that. If the engine starts easily and the idle speed is close to normal you have a clog. With the EGR valve removed, remove also the throttle body, then mechanically clean out the little tunnel that runs between the EGR valve and the throat of the plenum.
2) Wire broken at the EGR valve electrical connector.
This causes maybe 2/3 of the EGR insufficient flow codes that aren't the result of a clog. Usually the wire breaks off right at the connector which is easy to see if you try moving the wires. Sometimes they break inside the insulation up to an inch away; to check for this hold each wire between your thumbnail and index finger and drag along the wire feeling for a thin spot. Another thing that can happen is that someone performing a repair fails to properly secure the wiring harness into place and the wires contact the exhaust crossover pipe and burn through/ground out. You can check this visually by looking at the exhaust crossover pipe.
3) Faulty EGR valve.
4) other problem
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well no i did a tune up cause i noticed when i drive off and stop the car would shake alot but it would run smooth if the engine was hot just felt like it needed a tune up plus i never did one for like 3yrs and the mechanic said he recommended i change the fuel filter with the tune up so he did that to then the next day i was driving it and bam the service engine soon light came on so i was thinkin it was from the parts they replaced but i guess not
anybody else?
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