MO-090 hacked open

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5100 miles with PYB 10w30. Very disappointed overall. It had a terrible rattle for a few seconds on 30*F and colder starts too. If I lived in Florida this wouldn't bother me.. I feel the OCOD would have been a better choice especially for the money.

Those metal end caps weren't glued to anything. They fell right off exposing the plastic end caps.




Nice wavy pleats. Very reassuring.




As much as that looks like a Purolator tear, I think it may have been flawed from the factory. It looks like the area that was glued to the end cap was slightly smaller than the depth of the pleat. That may have strained it and caused a small tear? It wasn't a clean cut second bypass tear like we are used to seeing.

Stay tuned. Ill have a WIX 51334 posted Tuesday!
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Worst Mopar I've ever seen.
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Are Puro's issues slopping over to other lines now? I hope not still like the Motorcrafts.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting!
 
The recent problems with the Purolator and Purolator clone filters are the reason why I switched over to Napa Silver when I did my last oil change. So far I have no problems to report, the Silver is a good filter made by Wix to Napa's specs.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
mopar is purolator made here in nj


I was under that impression too for here. IIRC, the Canadian version may be WIX? And from what I have read here, if it has a red ADBV, that may be WIX as well.. But those are normally smaller filers.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
mopar is purolator made here in nj


I was under that impression too for here. IIRC, the Canadian version may be WIX? And from what I have read here, if it has a red ADBV, that may be WIX as well.. But those are normally smaller filers.


Yup the Canadian Mopar filters are Wix, the U.S. ones are Purolator. That is pretty disappointing. Glad to see you have a Wix on the Jeep now.
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My dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee Hemi uses a Mopar filter for the life of the oil monitor, which comes on at about 9k miles. He has been getting it serviced at the dealership, but I think I'm going to try to convince him to let me do the maintenance now.
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Looking at the pics, including last with hand apparently on top of filter only, it 'appears' as though caps are attached. Regardless, as long as the leaf spring was/is functioning as designed and potting intact, falling off on disassembly wouldn't compromise filter function. The material under the end cap is the potting/glue material.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Looking at the pics, including last with hand apparently on top of filter only, it 'appears' as though caps are attached. Regardless, as long as the leaf spring was/is functioning as designed and potting intact, falling off on disassembly wouldn't compromise filter function. The material under the end cap is the potting/glue material.


Dug it out of the trash just for you. I lied.. The bottom one was still partially glued, but needed some persuasion for me to remove it.



Top end cap. No glue found.


Sprayed it down with carb cleaner (no wiping with a towel) and this was the remaining glue on the cap I tore off.


Tore it apart. Not sure what the material was, but it was a very spongy plastic. Didn't taste very good and I have a bit stuck in my teeth. HTH.
 
I mentioned this in my other thread, but the WIX filter has the same rattle this had on cold start ups. Its only about 2 seconds, but I still don't like it. It did it with the last WIX I used, but I just assumed it was the M1 oil.

Going to give this one a week to shut up then try a M1 (I have 3 in my stash), TG or XG. Heck maybe even a Napa Silver. Ill cut the 51085 up and post pics if the ADBV was flawed.
 
When you tore the cap off the dome end still glued, you likely damaged the potting in so doing with some left on the cap. Spraying down after the fact proves nothing as far as function being compromised.

As for thread end cap, no potting/glue present on cap, all glue present on pleat tops/end. Again, as long as leaf spring worked as designed as far as end caps go, function was not compromised.

And again, blackish material at pleat ends is the potting/glue. Probably not a good idea to put in one's mouth though.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
When you tore the cap off the dome end still glued, you likely damaged the potting in so doing with some left on the cap. Spraying down after the fact proves nothing as far as function being compromised.

As for thread end cap, no potting/glue present on cap, all glue present on pleat tops/end. Again, as long as leaf spring worked as designed as far as end caps go, function was not compromised.

And again, blackish material at pleat ends is the potting/glue. Probably not a good idea to put in one's mouth though.


2 things:

1. Yes I know I damaged the media when forcefully removing the dome end cap. I never claimed that to be an area of concern.

2. Spraying down the end cap wasn't intended to show a failure. It was taken to show the lack of glue used.. which it clearly showed.

If the glue wasn't needed because of the spring, why use any at all? I personally would rather see none than hardly any at all. My .02
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
..... Spraying down the end cap wasn't intended to show a failure. It was taken to show the lack of glue used.. which it clearly showed....

Actually it didn't clearly show that at all. All it may show is that some of the potting/glue was more adhered to the metal end cap in those areas than in others. The rest of the potting/glue can all be seen on the pleat tops/ends, the stuff you tasted.

Yes, ideally having the end cap be attached to the element on disassembly would be preferable. But, having them fall off doesn't automatically mean function was compromised, ie, oil bypassing.

And really forcing the endcaps off the ends where they are still attached proves nothing other than that they can be separated with some amount of force.
 
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