I've always ran a 5w20 or 0w20 in the Accord, always synthetic. Would there be any advantage to go up to a 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic for wear benefits? It seems to run fine on 0w20, if not a little noisy at times. It has 120K miles on it, its the Honda 2.4 motor. If not now then when, if ever would be a good time to go up a grade?
When is it time to go up a grade?
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You stand a good chance of getting more quiet by going up a grade.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Noisy at startup or at operating temp?
After warm up. Ive noticed it after this past oil change, when accelerating I hear a faint tap tap tap in relation to the rpm. Its probably normal but I don't ever remember hearing it before. I used TGMO 0w20 last oil change and it was quiet so IDK what sparked this noise, the weather is heating up so that could be part of it. Start up is quiet except the usual piston slap. This noise starts after the enigne heats up, and I only notice it on acceleration. I do like the start up benefits the TGMO 0w20 provides, or any 0w20 vs a 5w30. Im just thinking long term here, I do mostly short trips to and from work, and driving around town. Oil is changed every 6 months.
Noisy at startup or at operating temp?
After warm up. Ive noticed it after this past oil change, when accelerating I hear a faint tap tap tap in relation to the rpm. Its probably normal but I don't ever remember hearing it before. I used TGMO 0w20 last oil change and it was quiet so IDK what sparked this noise, the weather is heating up so that could be part of it. Start up is quiet except the usual piston slap. This noise starts after the enigne heats up, and I only notice it on acceleration. I do like the start up benefits the TGMO 0w20 provides, or any 0w20 vs a 5w30. Im just thinking long term here, I do mostly short trips to and from work, and driving around town. Oil is changed every 6 months.
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A 10w40 high mileage would quiet that little motor down.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A 10w40 high mileage would quiet that little motor down.
Well to be quite honest, Im not too worried about noise. As long as the noise isnt causing wear its fine in my book. I'm just asking if anybody knows if a 5w30 would have any benefit of slowing down wear vs that of a 5w20 or 0w20 as the miles add up.
A 10w40 high mileage would quiet that little motor down.
Well to be quite honest, Im not too worried about noise. As long as the noise isnt causing wear its fine in my book. I'm just asking if anybody knows if a 5w30 would have any benefit of slowing down wear vs that of a 5w20 or 0w20 as the miles add up.
Usually, two surfaces need to come into contact with each other in order for there to be noise. If the two surfaces causing the noise are metal, the softest of the two metals is going to wear first. The whole purpose of oil is to keep the two surfaces separated - and that can only be done if the oil is thick enough.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Usually, two surfaces need to come into contact with each other in order for there to be noise. If the two surfaces causing the noise are metal, the softest of the two metals is going to wear first. The whole purpose of oil is to keep the two surfaces separated - and that can only be done if the oil is thick enough.
Not quite.
The tribochemical layer wears first,unless there is some other type of problem
Usually, two surfaces need to come into contact with each other in order for there to be noise. If the two surfaces causing the noise are metal, the softest of the two metals is going to wear first. The whole purpose of oil is to keep the two surfaces separated - and that can only be done if the oil is thick enough.
Not quite.
The tribochemical layer wears first,unless there is some other type of problem
Zero benefit, just disadvantages in going up a grade.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Zero benefit, just disadvantages in going up a grade.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
Awesome
Glad to have you back. Not too many cats get a "where is" thread. I've only seen one posted for ght many moons ago.
Anyways nice to see you again.
Zero benefit, just disadvantages in going up a grade.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
Awesome
Glad to have you back. Not too many cats get a "where is" thread. I've only seen one posted for ght many moons ago.
Anyways nice to see you again.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A 10w40 high mileage would quiet that little motor down.
Well to be quite honest, Im not too worried about noise. As long as the noise isnt causing wear its fine in my book. I'm just asking if anybody knows if a 5w30 would have any benefit of slowing down wear vs that of a 5w20 or 0w20 as the miles add up.
IMO, the noise typically is one indicator on how good the oil performing.
You can try 0w-30 and see how your car performs (torque, fuel economy) and hear the noise difference. The difference viscosity on 100 C between 20 and 30 weight is quite small, but sometimes it makes noticeable difference on old engine. However when the car comes with auto gearbox, it will be a challenge to notice it so probably the oil analysis route will be easier to spot it.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A 10w40 high mileage would quiet that little motor down.
Well to be quite honest, Im not too worried about noise. As long as the noise isnt causing wear its fine in my book. I'm just asking if anybody knows if a 5w30 would have any benefit of slowing down wear vs that of a 5w20 or 0w20 as the miles add up.
IMO, the noise typically is one indicator on how good the oil performing.
You can try 0w-30 and see how your car performs (torque, fuel economy) and hear the noise difference. The difference viscosity on 100 C between 20 and 30 weight is quite small, but sometimes it makes noticeable difference on old engine. However when the car comes with auto gearbox, it will be a challenge to notice it so probably the oil analysis route will be easier to spot it.
I have personally seen no difference in economy in the Pathfinder when using 5w30 instead of 5w40, both being A3,B3,B4,C3 oils.
A change to 5w30 A5/B5 Mobil Super 3000 FE, which has Saps below 1.0 so similar to C3 levels for the Dpf, has shown a tiny but ongoing increase in fuel economy numbers, from a rock steady 22.3mpg to a rock steady 22.8mpg vehicle does same journeys all the time at same times of the day.
I would have no problem running 5w30 or 0w30 in the OPs car as i don't think it will make much, if any, difference to the economy.
But it will likely protect the engine a little better.
A change to 5w30 A5/B5 Mobil Super 3000 FE, which has Saps below 1.0 so similar to C3 levels for the Dpf, has shown a tiny but ongoing increase in fuel economy numbers, from a rock steady 22.3mpg to a rock steady 22.8mpg vehicle does same journeys all the time at same times of the day.
I would have no problem running 5w30 or 0w30 in the OPs car as i don't think it will make much, if any, difference to the economy.
But it will likely protect the engine a little better.
I certainly wouldn't go up to 10w40 but 5w30 wouldn't hurt a bit especially in Florida. I often used 5w30 and 10w30 in my 2001 Accord which was spec'd for 5w20 and it didn't hurt a thing. I used these grades in the warmer months and stayed with the 5w20 in winter. (If I didn't have a stash I'd probably just run what is spec'd but when you find a great deal on oil, it's usually 5 or 10w30).
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've only seen one posted for ght many moons ago.
Speaking of ght,what ever happened to him?? This also made me wonder who here on BITOG still posts that`s been here the longest,maybe since day one of the forum? That`d be interesting to know.
I've only seen one posted for ght many moons ago.
Speaking of ght,what ever happened to him?? This also made me wonder who here on BITOG still posts that`s been here the longest,maybe since day one of the forum? That`d be interesting to know.
OP, does your Accord has mechanical valves? Since you've got 120,000 mi., it may be time for a valve adjustment. Perhaps one or two of them have a little too much lash.
Noise after 120k miles means that you need a valve adjustment. No oil will quiet it down.
I think you have it right.
This is noise from the valvetrain and indicates the need for valve adjustment.
Some of the clearances are too wide, which will do no harm but will make things noisier.
Some of the clearances could also be too tight as a result of valve stretch and seat recession over time, and this is a very bad thing, since it will result in damaged exhaust valves.
OP should either check the clearances himself (not that hard) or have it done.
This is noise from the valvetrain and indicates the need for valve adjustment.
Some of the clearances are too wide, which will do no harm but will make things noisier.
Some of the clearances could also be too tight as a result of valve stretch and seat recession over time, and this is a very bad thing, since it will result in damaged exhaust valves.
OP should either check the clearances himself (not that hard) or have it done.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I think you have it right.
This is noise from the valvetrain and indicates the need for valve adjustment.
Some of the clearances are too wide, which will do no harm but will make things noisier.
Some of the clearances could also be too tight as a result of valve stretch and seat recession over time, and this is a very bad thing, since it will result in damaged exhaust valves.
OP should either check the clearances himself (not that hard) or have it done.
Exactly. Go up a grade if consumption, or leaking you don't want to fix becomes an issue. Even then there are no guarantees.
I think you have it right.
This is noise from the valvetrain and indicates the need for valve adjustment.
Some of the clearances are too wide, which will do no harm but will make things noisier.
Some of the clearances could also be too tight as a result of valve stretch and seat recession over time, and this is a very bad thing, since it will result in damaged exhaust valves.
OP should either check the clearances himself (not that hard) or have it done.
Exactly. Go up a grade if consumption, or leaking you don't want to fix becomes an issue. Even then there are no guarantees.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Zero benefit, just disadvantages in going up a grade.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
Yeah, he's back!! lol
Zero benefit, just disadvantages in going up a grade.
There s virtually no chance that you would be getting
TGMO hot enough to thin it out to allow metal to metal contact in a running engine.
Put another way, the viscosity reserves in the specified 0W-20 grgrade are more than high enough to satisfy the requirements of your Honda engine with 120,000 miles on it unless the engine has been severely abused at some point in it's life to cause high engine bearing wear, and it doesn't sound like that's the case.
The sound you're hearing is likely from the valvetrain so first identifying what it is would be the first step, it likely has nothing to do with the oil's viscosity.
Yeah, he's back!! lol
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
OP, does your Accord has mechanical valves? Since you've got 120,000 mi., it may be time for a valve adjustment. Perhaps one or two of them have a little too much lash.
They were adjusted at 100K at the dealer.
OP, does your Accord has mechanical valves? Since you've got 120,000 mi., it may be time for a valve adjustment. Perhaps one or two of them have a little too much lash.
They were adjusted at 100K at the dealer.
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