lifter tick?

[ram_man]

My saturn sl has done this since I bought it. When first starting it after its been sitting 30mins or so. Itll have a real fast ticking for about 2 seconds on intial start up. It goes away quick but is very noticable at first. I believe its coming from 4th cylinder intake valve. Oil has always been changed at 5000 miles. Different oils or filters didnt make a difference.
is their an additive I should use or just take them out and clean them? Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[901Memphis]

Have you tried a filter with a silicone ADBV like a TG to see if that helps? Aren't those filters completely sideways? The oil could drain back into the pan with nitrile rubber.

 

[Rolla07]

2 seconds? No ill effects? Leave it alone. If it aint broke dont fix it. My 2 cents.

 

[901Memphis]

Just re read the post and noticed you already tried different filters, but i still recommend the TG, which has been known to relieve the worst of start up ticks.

 

[ram_man]

As in fram tough guard? I usually use purolators.
im willing to try it though. Amd yes it is sideways. It doesnt seem to hurt anything but it kinda embarrassing. I hate the noise.

 

[actionstan]

Does it sound almost like a chain rattling? Mine has done that, but only with pure one oil filters, but it has not happened with every single one I've used.. Either way I doubt it's hurting anything especially if it goes away fast..

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
As in fram tough guard? I usually use purolators.
im willing to try it though. Amd yes it is sideways. It doesnt seem to hurt anything but it kinda embarrassing. I hate the noise.


Yes the TGs has probably the best media available for the non full synthetic filters. (It's a glass blended cellulose filter) The flow is supposed to be good as well as the efficiency.

 

[Merkava_4]

Try the Wynns lifter clean additive.

 

[JHZR2]

Have yoiu read my real world experiences? I did B-12 chemtool and restore and my tick is gone. Restore has a big following in the 4.0 jeep world for quieting ticks, but the solvent iMO is important to ensure full cleanliness.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Have yoiu read my real world experiences? I did B-12 chemtool and restore and my tick is gone. Restore has a big following in the 4.0 jeep world for quieting ticks, but the solvent iMO is important to ensure full cleanliness.


+1 getting the varnish and junk out is most important.
I stopped recommending Chemtool for a long time because Berryman's stopped recommending it for use in the oil.
Not that it isn't effective it is very effective but it was abused by many. Used only at idle it is safe but some folks were driving with it and lost the bearings and other damage.

I do use it myself sometimes but on the forum i recommend Kreen first because you can drive with it and not damage anything. The last thing i want is some poster saying i used what you said and it blew my engine.

By all means use Chemtool but use it right. Get the vehicle on the ramps if that what you use and pour the can into a cold engine.
Run it 10 min 15 min max, turn it off and drain the oil. Do not drive the car or place a load on the engine.
If that doesn't cure it don't repeat or be tempted to run it longer. Fix it.

 

[Realtech214]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
2 seconds? No ill effects? Leave it alone. If it aint broke dont fix it. My 2 cents.


I've given up looking for little noises in my 4.3 It runs great so I stoped caring

 

[Chris142]

most likely the lifter has too much of a gap between the body and the piston.this lets the oil bleed out of it when its not running. then it has to pump back up when started.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
As in fram tough guard? I usually use purolators.
im willing to try it though. Amd yes it is sideways. It doesnt seem to hurt anything but it kinda embarrassing. I hate the noise.


I second the TG, wean yourself off the Purolators until they get this tearing media problem worked out.

 

[Vikas]

I thought Saturn SL is overhead cam engine. If that is the case, then it has solid lifters. So where would the noise be coming from and why would anything added to the oil will fix the noise?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I thought Saturn SL is overhead cam engine. If that is the case, then it has solid lifters. So where would the noise be coming from and why would anything added to the oil will fix the noise?


Not all OHC engines have solid LA's, many have HLA's, hydraulic valved buckets, and Ford uses a mini HLA to keep tension on the roller follower on the Modular.

The DOHC Saturn is Cam-over-bucket. The SOHC Saturn uses HLA's and shaft-mounted rockers.

 

[ram_man]

Wish it was solid honestly generally more reliable.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
Wish it was solid honestly generally more reliable.


The Modular may argue to the contrary with you sir

A solid setup of course has fewer parts but you still have to manually check the lash every once and a while, which of course opens up the engine to potential dirt and debris.

And some of the solid setups can be a real PITA, as while some take shims others require the purchase of specific height replacement buckets. Of course Honda's little adjustable bolt/nut arrangement on the rocker is pretty easy

 

[ram_man]

This is true! I however really enjoy adjusting valves it's one of this easy maintenence things that gives you a good sense or gratification. Not to say hydraulic isn't reliable. I would say solid valve train will take more abuse.....maybe.

 

[ram_man]

I bought a fram tg. It was very difficult I've been trained to hate fram buying their filter was a tough thing to do. Lol

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
This is true! I however really enjoy adjusting valves it's one of this easy maintenence things that gives you a good sense or gratification. Not to say hydraulic isn't reliable. I would say solid valve train will take more abuse.....maybe.

The engine will rev higher with mechanicals and are preferred for high RPM and large cam engines. In these applications they are definitely more stable and reliable.

For a normal street driver hydraulics IMO are preferable especially when valve covers are buried and/or shims are used on the mechanical valve train. Big PITA more so if its a V engine shoehorned in there horizontal!