Holy Purolator Flip Flop!

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Just serviced the signature vehicles and completed oil filter autopsy... The P1 off the Suburban looked good. Wasted a MLNG oci of 3,000 due to fear of P1 failure. (edit-mod) However, the Purolator Classic that came off the Kia was a TRAIN WRECK. Torn media both top and bottom of pleats on either side of the seam -- with only 3,000 miles the oci. Now I'm done w/all Puros. I hope the SOPUS filters I put on will be better (aren't they Puros though ?)
 
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I believe the SOPUS filters are indeed puro classics.. Did you happen to save/take pictures of the classic that was a train wreck? I think more and more solid evidence will turn this into a biggest case.
 
Originally Posted By: possum328
However, the Purolator Classic that came off the Kia was a TRAIN WRECK. Torn media both top and bottom of pleats on either side of the seam -- with only 3,000 miles the oci.


What's the "Tornmlator" filter part number on that Classic? Did it have a metal crimped seam?
 
Sorry, no pics yet. Part # L14459, yes it has metal crimp. WIDE pleats on either side too.
 
This post has inspired me to contact purolator regarding all of these tears. I dont know if anyone else has tried, but I have just sent a rather long email to them. I am a big fan of their product, but it seems like more and more failures are being reported with a rather small sample group.

I will probably make a new thread and post the response if they provide something more than just the basic PR protect the company type response.
 
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Originally Posted By: Padawan
Out of curiosity, how much did the Classic cost?


Bout 3.50
 
It's just as well you got the P1 off at 3k, hard to tell how much longer it would have went. Yours may be the same filter number I used on my GM V8. It was bad around 5k. What was your P1 filter no? Mine was a PL14006.
 
Upsetting to hear all the bad reviews on here lately about Purolator filters. I have used them many times and always thought they were a great filter; the ones i've cut open have always looked good. I have one more Napa Gold & "OLD" PU combo left for my next OCI. Than time to use cheap dino and filters for me!
 
Originally Posted By: sprite1741
It's just as well you got the P1 off at 3k, hard to tell how much longer it would have went. Yours may be the same filter number I used on my GM V8. It was bad around 5k. What was your P1 filter no? Mine was a PL14006.


Same.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Glad you checked, we need some pics of the "train wreck" though please.


It's gonna look the same as all the other media tear failure photos posted. It's a very repeatable failure.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Glad you checked, we need some pics of the "train wreck" though please.


It's gonna look the same as all the other media tear failure photos posted. It's a very repeatable failure.


This.
 
I have yet to open a P1 that didn't look fine. I swore off standard Purolators many years ago.

That said, I'm mostly running Royal Purple synthetic (Champion), Fram Ultra, or Purolator synthetic these days. Wire mesh-backing the filter media cures a million potential failures IMO.
 
Just quit buying Purolator and start buying Wix. It couldn't be simpler.
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Ok, I am going to throw out an idea. I just cut open a purolator from my 2005 ram hemi and it was very wavy and some of the pleats looked crushed but no tears (used 1700 miles thru the winter months). Being concerned I wondered what was going on. Normally filters on this vehicle look good upon inspection. What I also noticed was that the bypass valve took an extreme amount of force just to open off its seat compared to other brands of filters . I know this is very unscientific but the amount of force to open was almost ridiculous. I think Purolator may have something bad going on with their bypass valves causing deformation of the media and tears on cold starts or higher flow. This particular one has the bypass valve with the circular leaf spring.
 
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