1997 E39 528i

[bowlofturtle]

Consider getting one. Got a lead on one. Always loved the styling.

$3500, fairly decent maintained, havent seen it yet. The owner doesn't know too much but that there was a fair amount work done to it. Its an AUTO.

Yea yea i know old BMW can be money pit. But at that price point, i can always walk away. Big thing about the e39 is that plenty of DIY and parts out there.

So far i googled that 1997.5 had what they call a MID that looks like this

Well this car doesn't have it from the few pictures i saw, its more of

Which means its 1st year model, made in the 1st half year.


So main good and weak points? MPG expected? I've done work on a E46 CCV and idle air stuff, nothing new to me there.

 

[Quattro Pete]

This link with common DIY items is a decent indication of some of the things that can and do go bad or need attention:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sho...-Check-here!%29

Cooling system is the #1 weak spot on these cars, and if you don't catch it in time, you'll be looking for a new engine.

Auto trans might be another potential problem area, but I have no personal experience with it. Mine's a manual.

In terms of MPG, you can click on the link in my sig to get some idea. Figure 1 or 2 mpg less if it's an auto. You can also browse more vehicles like the one you're interested in on that site.

 

[kschachn]

Mine is an E34 with the M60 engine, so I know it isn't exactly the same. But I just did a complete cooling system overhaul on my car when it blew an engine mount. The fan disintegrated into the radiator, and while investigating that I noticed the water pump shaft had about a 3/16" wobble in it and felt like it was turning in gravel. I was lucky that although the radiator had some deep dings in it, nothing was leaking.

11 cooling/heater hoses BTW. Two water pumps, two cooling fans, an electrically-controlled distribution valve, two cooling pipes under the intake manifold, and a separate coolant reservoir. I'm not really sure how BMW could have made it more complicated.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This link with common DIY items is a decent indication of some of the things that can and do go bad or need attention:

Cooling system is the #1 weak spot on these cars, and if you don't catch it in time, you'll be looking for a new engine.

 

[Lolvoguy]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Mine is an E34 with the M60 engine, so I know it isn't exactly the same. But I just did a complete cooling system overhaul on my car when it blew an engine mount. The fan disintegrated into the radiator, and while investigating that I noticed the water pump shaft had about a 3/16" wobble in it and felt like it was turning in gravel. I was lucky that although the radiator had some deep dings in it, nothing was leaking.

11 cooling/heater hoses BTW. Two water pumps, an electrically-controlled distribution valve, two cooling pipes under the intake manifold, and a separate coolant reservoir. I'm not really sure how BMW could have made it more complicated.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This link with common DIY items is a decent indication of some of the things that can and do go bad or need attention:

Cooling system is the #1 weak spot on these cars, and if you don't catch it in time, you'll be looking for a new engine.


wow, really DIY friendly

 

[bowlofturtle]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This link with common DIY items is a decent indication of some of the things that can and do go bad or need attention:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sho...-Check-here!%29

Cooling system is the #1 weak spot on these cars, and if you don't catch it in time, you'll be looking for a new engine.

Auto trans might be another potential problem area, but I have no personal experience with it. Mine's a manual.

In terms of MPG, you can click on the link in my sig to get some idea. Figure 1 or 2 mpg less if it's an auto. You can also browse more vehicles like the one you're interested in on that site.





What exactly is the cost and general items replaced in a cooling system overhaul?

Water pump, upper/lower hoses and Radiator? Thermostat housing unit.



Like i said ive only done a misfire issue, which i replaced both intake boots, IAVC, CCV an some vac lines. All under $500, wasn't horrible just annoying to get to.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
What exactly is the cost and general items replaced in a cooling system overhaul?

Look at one of the links in the DIY post I provided:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

I think this outlines most of it. I believe I had most of it replaced on mine. The cost of parts was around $600-$700 (from Autohausaz), plus about $350 for labor. If you're sticking with OEM plastic parts, figure on having to do it every 60-80K miles if you want to be proactive.

 

[kschachn]

His prices seem a little low, probably due to the fact that the post was from 2008. I'd say add about 30 or 40% to it. Does the E39 have the aux coolant pump and valve, or the aux electric fan?

Also don't forget a couple gallons of BMW blue coolant, about $25/gallon.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
What exactly is the cost and general items replaced in a cooling system overhaul?

Look at one of the links in the DIY post I provided:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

I think this outlines most of it. I believe I had most of it replaced on mine. The cost of parts was around $600-$700 (from Autohausaz), plus about $350 for labor. If you're sticking with OEM plastic parts, figure on having to do it every 60-80K miles if you want to be proactive.

 

[OVERKILL]

I love my E39, and the M5 apparently doesn't share the cooling system issues, as mine has been perfect.

 

[Chris142]

does this car have that assanine electric water pump?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Does the E39 have the aux coolant pump and valve, or the aux electric fan?

No aux coolant pump. No aux fan.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
does this car have that assanine electric water pump?

No. It's belt driven.

Also one of the last 5-series that still has an engine oil dipstick.

 

[kschachn]

Well, it would have both if we are talking about the same thing.

If it doesn't have that pump (and the associated valve) then it will save you about $300 on a rebuild, unless you delete/bypass it.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Chris142
does this car have that asinine electric water pump?

No. It's belt driven.

 

[djb]

The e39 is a remarkably good car. There are a few issues to watch out for.

You are picturing the difference between the "high" and "low" instrument clusters.

The MID is the 'radio'. It's actually just a keypad and display that communicates over a low speed serial link with the audio system in the trunk.

Both the "high" cluster and the MID have problems with cracks forming in the flexible circuit film to the LCD display. New circuit films are readily available for a few dollars, but they are a PITA to install. It's not that expensive to send them out for repair, but you'll need to do without them for a week.

The cooling system is always an issue with BMWs. There is always something that's failure prone. The '97 was before the failure-prone electrically adjusted thermostats, so it gets the crack-prone plastic thermostat housing. You get a choice of replacing with another plastic one from BMW, or an aftermarket aluminum casting with porosity issue.

The radiator hoses usually last 15 years, which makes them about due for replacement. While you are at it, change the radiator overflow nipple ($1-$2).

Cooling system problems need to be corrected right away. Running the system low will result in a warped head. At least the '97 has a cast iron block, which survives the overheating. 1999+ models switched to an aluminum block which often fails (head bolt threads let go). If you see recent cooling system work, check that that exhaust gasses aren't getting into the coolant.

 

[bowlofturtle]

thanks for the tips and advice. Keep them coming if you got some more.

Ive been on the fence with getting another car as a summer daily. The early LS400 was my first choice, again everything i can think of has a DIY and its a good looker. the E39 is my 2nd choice, mainly because i dont know what i'm getting into with a BMW.

How is rust on the e39? Hopefully its not rusted out on the bottom.

 

[ecotourist]

I have a 2000 528i, a 5 speed manual with M-sport and appearance packages. Mine has quite low mileage, at about 140,000 km (87,000 miles).

I've had it for 11 years and like it a lot. They do require more maintenance than a Toyota or a Honda, similar to my 1986 Volvo.

The cooling systems are a weak spot. Mine has been fairly good but even then I've replaced 2 hoses and had 2 cracked bleeder valves. The other weak point is their electronics. I'm currently dealing with problems with the traction control, ABS and speedometer. Fixing all that may require only one fairly straighforward repair - fingers crossed!

The power train (with a manual transmission) has been solid except for the double Vanos system (which was repaired under warranty) but the 1997 had a single Vanos system which seems to be more reliable.

The mileage is very good for such a large and comfortable car. I get about between 32.4 and 36.8 miles/imperial gallon (about 28 miles/US gallon) on longer trips.

My advice is to buy a really good one. It won't be much more than a mediocre one. A prepurchase inspection is essential.

All things considered I think I'd go for a 2001 530i - same great body with a little better performance and better mileage besides.

If you buy one, you'll want to frequent the bimmer roadfly site and get a set of Bentley manuals.

 

[hattaresguy]

Find a better and a newer one. I think 2001 was the last year of the decent BMW's so I'd look for one of those. Might as well get a 540I with a stick....


The trick to buying older high end cars is to find one with records that was owned by someone who could afford the car. Avoid 2-3+ owner apartment complex cars, once they get that far down the food chain maintenance suffers. One of the problem's with German cars in general is they hold up very well cosmetically so you could be looking at a POS but it will look and drive awesome if your not used to the model.

The last W140 I helped my buddy buy was owned by a judge who bought it almost new, the car was in fantastic shape. He replaced it with a new AWD S550. It only cost probably a grand more than a used car lot special but its ten times the car.

OTOH if you really know what your looking at you can score some great deals on marginal high end cars when the current owners run out of money. But to play that game you really have to be familiar with the vehicle.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
The trick to buying older high end cars is to find one with records that was owned by someone who could afford the car.

+1

This is very critical.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Find a better and a newer one. I think 2001 was the last year of the decent BMW's so I'd look for one of those. Might as well get a 540I with a stick....


The 540i's have been plagued with timing chain guide issues, especially the ones that don't have the big double row chain (like the one in the M5). VANOS problems, valve cover leaks....etc. All of those are far bigger PITA's with the 540i than they are with a 530i for example. Yes, you get more power but.... Is it worth it?

 

[hattaresguy]

Depends what you want. I'm traditional so for me to be interested in a BMW it has to be RWD have a manual and a screaming I6 or V8.

I guess a 530I would probably be a good car, I6's are usually more DIY friendly.

Or just buy a W210 vintage E55 AMG and get the power with none of the engine problems...

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
VANOS problems, valve cover leaks....etc. All of those are far bigger PITA's with the 540i than they are with a 530i for example.

Not really. 530i suffers from these issues just as much as the 540i. Oil leaks as well: from oil filter housing, oil pan, and rear main seal. I experienced all of the above except VANOS before 60K miles.