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Dodge Viper- Which Motor Oil
- Thread starter BlackMoon
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Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Oh, and another thing: The high speed gear train in your Paxton supercharger will shear oil very badly. You need oils that have very little or no Viscosity Index Improvers, which also points to RedLine.
This is the point I was about to make. 10w-40 over 0w-40 for just that reason.
Oh, and another thing: The high speed gear train in your Paxton supercharger will shear oil very badly. You need oils that have very little or no Viscosity Index Improvers, which also points to RedLine.
This is the point I was about to make. 10w-40 over 0w-40 for just that reason.
I was kidding about using 2 quarts of each. I'm going to drain the VR1 and order some 10-40 Redline. I just bought some new Michelin Pilot Super Sports today so my wallet needs to catch it's breath overnight before I spend anything.
I'm using the recommended Mopar oil filter as advised by the better Viper builders out there.
I'm about to change pulleys and up my boost so I want to make sure I have the BEST possible lubrication in the engine.
Thanks
I'm using the recommended Mopar oil filter as advised by the better Viper builders out there.
I'm about to change pulleys and up my boost so I want to make sure I have the BEST possible lubrication in the engine.
Thanks
Good luck! That RL is resistant to shear for sure, but I think a UOA would do you well at some point. You could always move up to the SAE40 Racing Red Line if need be.
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
Not look so good in what way?
Originally Posted By: mcrn
Just so you know too.....your first oil change with redline might not look good.....but that could be normal.
The numbers can be falsely elevated. Give it like 2 or 3 oil changes with redline first.
Not look so good in what way?
Originally Posted By: mcrn
Just so you know too.....your first oil change with redline might not look good.....but that could be normal.
The numbers can be falsely elevated. Give it like 2 or 3 oil changes with redline first.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
No problem. I had always run the recommended Mobil ! 10-40 but after this issue just put in the Val VR1 20-50.
When hot the car runs right at 200-210 (water) but the oil stays down at 185-195.
I'll have to check but the pressure should be 80 psi under normal driving.
I only went to the track a few times. Now it's only street driving but it's pretty aggressive. Alot of curves and room here but even on major roads I usually accelerate pretty hard. Many shifts between 5,000 and 6200. If I have room I'll do an occasional 80-180 pull just to get my older blood flowing.
Honestly Viper forum members (for the most part) are pretty uneducated when it comes to their cars compared to others I've been on. Maybe most of them just use the dealer for their maintenance. I do all my own work in my garage so I like to learn what's best rather than relying on others. If you talk to the Viper builders they all have their own preferences. Like they say opinions are like (*), everyone has one and they are all a little different.
My main questions are 1. Synthetic or Dino oil? 2. Any good additives, friction modifiers, etc. recommended? 4. Am I changing my oil too frequently? 5. If Synthetic which is the best?
6. If conventional which is the best.
Thanks Mene,
Sal
Sorry that took me so long to answer specially since I was the one who asked for more info, my bad, trapped with other things. I've read to the end so far, 80 PSI seems high to me, Do you know what the FSM says and at what RPM? I don't want to be a pessimistic but the devils advocate, the engine is not a real stressed engine in the proper sense, even if you are at 800 HP on boost we are talking of less than 1 HP/100cc and those are big journals, I'm concerned that the bearings might not been well fed, in other words there is something choking the oil flow perhaps a casting defect by the oil galleys to the bearings, that will explain the high pressure and the "not so perfect" bearings. If that is the case, a "thinner" oil will be better, (I hope turttlevette is not reading this). What made you take it apart to check the bearings? Did you have a hunch?. I would go with Redline too, now please understand that conventional 10W40 is a grade that uses a lot of viscosity improver, a bad thing in this situation, even Redline uses some here and there. This is what I would do in your shoes, first I would send the oil you have now to do an UOA as a baseline, then I'll try Amsoil ACD, it is a 10W30 with good HTHS (3.4) and very important "no viscosity improver" run it 100 miles and replace it with the same just to remove most of the old oil, run 2~3K miles write pressures at idle and at 4K RPM then send for UOA; next do the same with 0W20 TGMO; repeat with Redline or M1 0W40. A lot of work and coins but it will leave you with a good idea of what works and what doesn't and if you haven't find the right oil and viscosity by then you will have the right direction to go. Just for kicks, I'll try a Fram HP filter just to make sure is not the filter the problem.
No problem. I had always run the recommended Mobil ! 10-40 but after this issue just put in the Val VR1 20-50.
When hot the car runs right at 200-210 (water) but the oil stays down at 185-195.
I'll have to check but the pressure should be 80 psi under normal driving.
I only went to the track a few times. Now it's only street driving but it's pretty aggressive. Alot of curves and room here but even on major roads I usually accelerate pretty hard. Many shifts between 5,000 and 6200. If I have room I'll do an occasional 80-180 pull just to get my older blood flowing.
Honestly Viper forum members (for the most part) are pretty uneducated when it comes to their cars compared to others I've been on. Maybe most of them just use the dealer for their maintenance. I do all my own work in my garage so I like to learn what's best rather than relying on others. If you talk to the Viper builders they all have their own preferences. Like they say opinions are like (*), everyone has one and they are all a little different.
My main questions are 1. Synthetic or Dino oil? 2. Any good additives, friction modifiers, etc. recommended? 4. Am I changing my oil too frequently? 5. If Synthetic which is the best?
6. If conventional which is the best.
Thanks Mene,
Sal
Sorry that took me so long to answer specially since I was the one who asked for more info, my bad, trapped with other things. I've read to the end so far, 80 PSI seems high to me, Do you know what the FSM says and at what RPM? I don't want to be a pessimistic but the devils advocate, the engine is not a real stressed engine in the proper sense, even if you are at 800 HP on boost we are talking of less than 1 HP/100cc and those are big journals, I'm concerned that the bearings might not been well fed, in other words there is something choking the oil flow perhaps a casting defect by the oil galleys to the bearings, that will explain the high pressure and the "not so perfect" bearings. If that is the case, a "thinner" oil will be better, (I hope turttlevette is not reading this). What made you take it apart to check the bearings? Did you have a hunch?. I would go with Redline too, now please understand that conventional 10W40 is a grade that uses a lot of viscosity improver, a bad thing in this situation, even Redline uses some here and there. This is what I would do in your shoes, first I would send the oil you have now to do an UOA as a baseline, then I'll try Amsoil ACD, it is a 10W30 with good HTHS (3.4) and very important "no viscosity improver" run it 100 miles and replace it with the same just to remove most of the old oil, run 2~3K miles write pressures at idle and at 4K RPM then send for UOA; next do the same with 0W20 TGMO; repeat with Redline or M1 0W40. A lot of work and coins but it will leave you with a good idea of what works and what doesn't and if you haven't find the right oil and viscosity by then you will have the right direction to go. Just for kicks, I'll try a Fram HP filter just to make sure is not the filter the problem.
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