Budget Paint?

[00Crew]

Ok guys/gals, I will probably need to put on my flame suit for this.

My new to me 2002 White Chevy Silverado has the typical peeling of clear on the hood and roof. The rest of the paint is in great shape. My original plan was to do the Rustoleum roll on job on the hood and roof to protect it and maybe match somewhat well.

BUT, the whole reason I was going to do that was due to money restriction and I don’t have access to a big enough compressor. After further thought, this might not be my best option with a newborn at the house and considering the time that it would take to color sand. I don’t plan on attempting this until this summer so she will be a tad older, but still.

The new Turbine Paint System from Eastwood has peaked my interest:

Eastwood Turbine Paint System

That, coupled with the GM White Single Stage Acrylic Enamel from TCP would provide a very cheap alternative all things considered. And considering how well I could get the turbine to spray, minimal color sanding.

Current plan is to use my DA to sand down to primer, then depending on how the factory primer looks, either spray primer, or go straight to the single stage.

Any thoughts or reasons why my current plan won’t work? The Eastwood system is an easy sell to the wife too, since it can be used around the house as well.

Any and all opinions are appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[bepperb]

The Eastwood looks suspiciously like a Graco. You might buy a graco and a finer needle for the same price. 1.8mm seems large for gloss auto paint.

But sure, practice to get used to the machine. It's better than rattle cans. I've never rolled on rustoleum but have seen some pretty good jobs with that method on boats.

 

[zzyzzx]

Exactly how small is your current compressor? I used something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horsepower-8-gal-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-68740.html

Along with a small enough paint gun that I kept on refilling. I did premix my Rustoleum with my Naphta and had that in a jar before I started, and it was easy enough to refill my paint gun while I waited for my compressor to catch up.

The paint gun I used was a HVLP detail capacity paint gun, similiar to this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-detail-spray-gun-46719.html

The small detail paint guns don't hold much paint in them, which is why I had to refill it often. It did allow me to use my small-ish compressor.

When I was done repainting the hood, grill, front bumper and right fender, my car looked like this:

The Eastwood thing is interesting, I would experiment with something else besides the car to see if it's any good and perfect your technique first.

I do not recommend Rustoleum for car paint. I painted a car with it once, in 2007, and it has faded but still way better than a cheap MAACO type of paint job. I recommend something better, unless the car is a beater. Which brings me to my next question, since it's a 2002 car, is this car that you want to keep nice or is it something closer to a beater? I mean, your complaint is only about the clear coat, and can't you just reapply the clear coat? Am i missing something here?

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
The Eastwood looks suspiciously like a Graco. You might buy a graco and a finer needle for the same price. 1.8mm seems large for gloss auto paint.


I was also meaning to comment on the nozzle size being too large for oil based paint.

 

[00Crew]

What size tip would be ideal?

 

[00Crew]

And the original idea was to get all of the loose clear off, feather sand the edge and spray with rattle can clear, and sand/buff. BUT the rest of the clear on the hood is failing rather fast.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: 00Crew
And the original idea was to get all of the loose clear off, feather sand the edge and spray with rattle can clear, and sand/buff. BUT the rest of the clear on the hood is failing rather fast.


That would probably work, but I am not sure if you can make the rattle can clear look good in gloss over an area the size of a hood. I still want to know how big your air compressor is.

 

[00Crew]

My personal compressor is very small. Trying to determine the size of my FILs.

What are the very least I need to buy if his is big enough? Filter and regulator for it?

 

[00Crew]

Sorry, I worded that wrong. I had already started the rattle clear. Being white, after sand/buff it wasn't bad. But there are so many new spots it is just a losing battle.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: 00Crew
What are the very least I need to buy if his is big enough? Filter and regulator for it?


My above posted detail gun comes with a regulator. A filter would be nice, those are pretty cheap. I am using a regular filter (not the type that removes moisture) that looks a lot like this:

 

[zzyzzx]

If the whole clear coat is going bad, research how much to get the whole clear coat redone at a body shop. Having said that, I still have no idea if the car is a beater or not.

 

[00Crew]

Sorry,
Not a beater, but no show queen either. 2002 Silverado with 92,000 miles. And I wish it were that simple, but you can’t just strip clear and re-clear. In most cases anyways.

 

[hattaresguy]

If its just the hood and roof have you gotten a price from a body shop? If you do the prep and don't really care about match, just pay them to do a summit white spray it should be pretty cheap.

When I got my truck I had the local GM shop do my entire tailgate and for $100 it came out really well.

I'd prep the hood, pull it off and drop it down a shop for a respray. As for the roof no one can see that, ask them what they want. The roof I'd probably just do with some rattle cans. Tape it off, prime it and get some of the summit white rattle cans from Autozone.

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: 00Crew
What size tip would be ideal?


1.4-1.5

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: 00Crew
What size tip would be ideal?


1.4-1.5


I would use a smaller tip for oil based paint. More like .8

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: 00Crew
What size tip would be ideal?


1.4-1.5


I would use a smaller tip for oil based paint. More like .8


Most would not spray with less than a a 1.2mm most pros would use a 1.5mm to 1.6mm

 

[MarkM66]

I had Maaco paint my '85 S-10 about 10 years ago for their lowest paint job on the menu. Cost $250. It still looks pretty good for a truck the never gets parked inside.

Definitively driver quality. Not much worse then some of the stuff I see on new cars.

Just something you may want to think about.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: 00Crew
What size tip would be ideal?


1.4-1.5


I would use a smaller tip for oil based paint. More like .8


Most would not spray with less than a a 1.2mm most pros would use a 1.5mm to 1.6mm

1.2 and 1.3 produce the best finish with modern base/clear coats. 1.5 and 1.6 are a little on the large size for most clears.

http://www.finishsystems.com/qanda.html

 

[cptbarkey]

the big thing that i dislike about Rustoleum paint jobs is if you ever want to paint it again, its even harder to get rid of it.

I personally do not have the patience for the detail work involved, hours and hours of sanding, taping off, so on so forth.

Maaco did a very nice job on a subaru i flipped early last year and the entire thing was done for just under a grand. the thing with maaco is though every shop is different and managed differently so you really have to check things like local reviews online and whatnot.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
the big thing that i dislike about Rustoleum paint jobs is if you ever want to paint it again, its even harder to get rid of it.


True. I would want it removed unless I was painting over it with more Rustoleum. Having said that, I could probably remove some of it with tape, and this car was a beater in 2007 when I painted it and I did not expect to still have the car today.