Compact Fluorescent Lighbulb Q?

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I was looking at getting some of the GE 60W Equivalent Reveal (2500K) A19 CFL Light Bulbs.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60W-Equiva...1vZbmatZ1z0u18r

Hoping that they would be a little more yellow than most CFL's as my eyes dont like cool white light.

I'm still using mostly incandescent bulbs but would like to start switching over.

I'm picky, I was a Lighting and Staging shop supervisor for years in NYC.
 
I find the 2700K are very close to incandescent, so you should like the 2500K. I do like the CFLs which have the glass over the spiral of the CFL. I use those in lamps that the bulb can be seen and use the cheaper uncovered ones in flush mounts and the like.
 
That's expensive CFL bulb. The electric company in So Cal subsidizes CFL heavily, last week I bought 10 125W equivalent CFL bulbs for a dime each.

Some years before I bought more than 20-30 bulbs for the same price 10 cents each. All incandescent bulbs in my house were replaced with CFL some years ago, I think I saved about $10-15 a month in electricity bill.
 
Bought a Cree Soft white LED 60 Watt equivalent today at Home Depot for $4.95. Think it looks pretty close to an incandescent bulb. Uses 9.5 Watts, 800 Lumens, 2700 K. Definitely warmer, yellow light. Better color, longer life, no mercury, more efficient.
 
Originally Posted By: boulderdentist
Bought a Cree Soft white LED 60 Watt equivalent today at Home Depot for $4.95. Think it looks pretty close to an incandescent bulb. Uses 9.5 Watts, 800 Lumens, 2700 K. Definitely warmer, yellow light. Better color, longer life, no mercury, more efficient.


Yeah these are sweet, I got about a dozen of them. Various states subsidize them in different amounts, so if you see some cheap when you're travelling, get a bunch.

OP wants a high CRI CFL, "Color Rendition Index". I have some cheap warm-tone bulbs that put out, near as I can describe, brown light. They probably think it's orange or something but it sucks the saturation out of the room.
 
Originally Posted By: boulderdentist
Bought a Cree Soft white LED 60 Watt equivalent today at Home Depot for $4.95. Think it looks pretty close to an incandescent bulb. Uses 9.5 Watts, 800 Lumens, 2700 K. Definitely warmer, yellow light. Better color, longer life, no mercury, more efficient.


Except for the living room and kitchen, where we have 100W equivalent CFL's, we have LED's throughout the house. We have candelabra-style LED ' S in the upstairs hallway and 40W and 60W Cree's everywhere else. I'm very pleased with how they look.
 
LED is the way to go-

CFL I question the CFL's true cost savings and environmental benefit.

I am not trying to incite a riot but I encourage you all to do a google search.
 
Originally Posted By: needsducktape
LED is the way to go-

CFL I question the CFL's true cost savings and environmental benefit.

I am not trying to incite a riot but I encourage you all to do a google search.


LOL! don't get me started on the mercury discussion.

Fact is: we North Americans are lagging behind in terms of environmental/energy conservation....many other countries are aggressively pursuing that direction, most noticeably Japan, France, Germany, etc. Most of these countries have been on fluorescent lighting and now LEDs.

Me? my CFLs (with 50cent modification on the circuitry) typically lasted at least 3~5khrs, with one of them currently on 7khr+ mark and still going (although the tube has blacken and light output reduced by 30%).

I also have a couple of LED lightings in the house.

Q.
 
Really appreciate the input here from you all.

I'm gonna pick up the GE 60w Reveal and the Cree Soft white LED 60w tomorrow and mess around with them for a bit.

Lighting in my house is tricky as I have electric ceiling heat so all our fixtures are either wall mounted or floor units.

I dont mind tho, Makes for some dramatic light, Hahaha.
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: needsducktape
I am not trying to incite a riot but I encourage you all to do a google search.


LOL! don't get me started on the mercury discussion.


I heard the mercury thing at lunch in NY, from the author that we met there, when she was complaining about how much 13 100W globes cost to run 24/7 (you don't turn them off, because they use less electricity when running, than when you turn them on).

I LOLed, but saw the same "facts" being presented on news services over there.

Originally Posted By: Quest
Me? my CFLs (with 50cent modification on the circuitry) typically lasted at least 3~5khrs, with one of them currently on 7khr+ mark and still going (although the tube has blacken and light output reduced by 30%).


What's this modification of which you speak ?
 
I'm in a red state, so we don't get any subsidized "green energy" LED bulbs.
lol.gif

I've seen homedepot links posted here where Cree bulbs are 10 bucks a piece here, still too expensive for me.
 
Stay away from General Electric LED's Made in China. Had one flicker the first week after purchase and now a second one is flickering...junk!! These were track-bar lights so I cant say what the others will do but I'm going with Cree next.
 
@Shannow:

Most of the CFL fails due to film capacitors (dielectric or insulation breakdown due to cyclical heating); and also on higher powered CFLs: the 1st stage post-AC rectification stage of the filtering capacitor (electrolytic cap) is has the highest failure rate.

Almost 98% of all the CFLs I bought so far: this stage filtering capacitors are those inferior chinese made ones that failed so many computers some 8yrs then. I replaced mine with some seriously tried-n-true brands that really rated @105C and then go from there.

The ones that I re-capped with good quality lytic caps ones would now only fail due to film caps failure......

Also: as a second generation of electronics guy (family of engineers), I want to point out the false-science behind the rumours out there here in NA:


http://www.nrdc.org/legislation/files/lightbulbmercury.pdf

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
@Shannow:

Most of the CFL fails due to film capacitors (dielectric or insulation breakdown due to cyclical heating); and also on higher powered CFLs: the 1st stage post-AC rectification stage of the filtering capacitor (electrolytic cap) is has the highest failure rate.

Almost 98% of all the CFLs I bought so far: this stage filtering capacitors are those inferior chinese made ones that failed so many computers some 8yrs then. I replaced mine with some seriously tried-n-true brands that really rated @105C and then go from there.

The ones that I re-capped with good quality lytic caps ones would now only fail due to film caps failure......

Also: as a second generation of electronics guy (family of engineers), I want to point out the false-science behind the rumours out there here in NA:


http://www.nrdc.org/legislation/files/lightbulbmercury.pdf

Q.


Good info about the TF caps, do you actually open the SMPS up and have you ever broken one of the glass tubes?

I thoroughly disagree with the Hg pacification piece though. It's only applicable to coal-derived electricity generation, and again implies that coal emissions can't be scrubbed. IMO installing little vials of unregulated(Chinese made bulbs are very inconsistent in their Hg dosing) amounts of Hg all throughout one's house is immediately more dangerous.

Mercury vapour detection tools are rare as dodos among the consuming public. Mercury is no joke, unless of course, you fancy some nerve, IQ and brain damage.
 
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Stay away from General Electric LED's Made in China. Had one flicker the first week after purchase and now a second one is flickering...junk!! These were track-bar lights so I cant say what the others will do but I'm going with Cree next.


That's the big problem with modern LED units. They use cheap rectifier circuits (the worst) and cheap, noisy switch mode power supplies. LEDs have really fast reaction times, and when fed by a switch mode frequency, flicker very rapidly. This frequency is usually well above the "flicker fusion rate" of the human eye, but despite not being able to detect the drive frequency, it still introduces biological stress that is aptly noticed by those sensitive to it.

I Have an LED TV which I keep on full backlight because, even though they're still driven by a high frequency the pulse width is much longer on the full-bright setting and makes the flickering less stressful.

Personally, I've been making my own LED lights using purchased components and linear power supplies. Sometimes you can get an AWESOME set of diodes with excellent CRI and colour temp, rather than the limited selection of terrible CRI/colour temp LEDs sold commercially. My next set of home made diodes will be in oil-filled/cooled glass vessels. I'm thinking of adjusting the colour temp of them by using phosphorescent dye in the oil bath. Just need to find the phosphorescent due
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
That's expensive CFL bulb. The electric company in So Cal subsidizes CFL heavily, last week I bought 10 125W equivalent CFL bulbs for a dime each.

Some years before I bought more than 20-30 bulbs for the same price 10 cents each. All incandescent bulbs in my house were replaced with CFL some years ago, I think I saved about $10-15 a month in electricity bill.


Those are not typical CFL bulbs in the link. They have a halogen bulb in them for an instant on that shuts off as the bulb lights up
 
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Originally Posted By: Quest
@Shannow:

Most of the CFL fails due to film capacitors (dielectric or insulation breakdown due to cyclical heating); and also on higher powered CFLs: the 1st stage post-AC rectification stage of the filtering capacitor (electrolytic cap) is has the highest failure rate.

Almost 98% of all the CFLs I bought so far: this stage filtering capacitors are those inferior chinese made ones that failed so many computers some 8yrs then. I replaced mine with some seriously tried-n-true brands that really rated @105C and then go from there.

The ones that I re-capped with good quality lytic caps ones would now only fail due to film caps failure......

Also: as a second generation of electronics guy (family of engineers), I want to point out the false-science behind the rumours out there here in NA:


http://www.nrdc.org/legislation/files/lightbulbmercury.pdf

Q.


Good info about the TF caps, do you actually open the SMPS up and have you ever broken one of the glass tubes?

I thoroughly disagree with the Hg pacification piece though. It's only applicable to coal-derived electricity generation, and again implies that coal emissions can't be scrubbed. IMO installing little vials of unregulated(Chinese made bulbs are very inconsistent in their Hg dosing) amounts of Hg all throughout one's house is immediately more dangerous.

Mercury vapour detection tools are rare as dodos among the consuming public. Mercury is no joke, unless of course, you fancy some nerve, IQ and brain damage.


@jrustles:

yes, I have taken apart those SMPS inside CFL bulbs before (and still doing so to all of the burnt CFL bulbs that I have before I send them off to proper CFL recycling facilities here.). I take them apart to investigate their failure modes, component/design safety margin, etc.

and yes, I have broken a few CFLs before. In fact: I broke my first 8Watt fluorscent table lamp tubes when I was twelve.

I know the dangers of mercury (don't come along and preach me on that....). But it's no fool that our insatiable demand for electricity (compounded with the bad tastes left in our mouths RE: Chenobyl and Fukushima nuclear power plant disasters, etc., high initial cost for solar and wind energy harvesting, etc.) US has been resorting to the cheep way of power generation: Coal firing plant. mercury emissions through coal burning has become a very serious matter---get into the rain (subsequently into the sea, aka "our biggest chemical/pollutant dump"), getting back into our soil, etc. fish high up the food chain such as tuna, shark, whales, etc. all have serious levels of mercury. Food grown from our soil is also laden with mercury...and the list goes on and on.

Granted: if I can make my CFLs lasts considerably longer than what they claimed to be (8 to 10 khrs @ 3hrs of usage each?ha!Wait til those mylar caps or the lytic caps pop and fail, then you'll realise that the lies within the component service life...typically between 600hrs to no more than 1.5khrs avg.)

I can save the environment by using less energy (less need on coal fired electricity generation), and reduction of mercury getting back into the ecosystem by means of making my CFL last much longer (providing much longer service life), and that will, in turn, reduce my disposal of arsenic, lead (well, most of the world's electronic stuff are now RoHS but not all of them), Cadmium, etc.

SMPS circuitry may deemed "noisy" in terms of RF interference noise but we aren't any better in the sense of already having all kinds of unnecessary RF stuff going on in our environment: examples: all SMPS based electronic devices: your TeeVee sets, computers, DVD players, cell phone AC wall outlet charger, internet wi-fi broadcasts/transmissions, cell phone communications, etc.

SMPS noise can be properly dealt with so long as the beancounter is not at play. Also: low-end LED bulbs and CFLs are definitely noisy because they saved 50cents on additional filtering components that would otherwise helps attenuate the RF interference noise emitted into AC line/atmosphere.

Q.
 
Also: to balance the viewpoints:

China is currently suffering from toxic smog, and most of the contents within other than particulates (into the microns region), would be NOx, sulphur-related particulates and heavy metals such as arsenic, mercury, cadmium, lead, etc. that became airborne due to coal-firing facilities such as coal fired power plants, smelters,etc.

In order to maintain their rather "impressive" GDP figures, they resort to infrastructure activities such as constructions of highway, buildings, etc. which consumes a lot of energy and iron (smelters). compounded with the lack of foresight: their coal firing plants or smelters do not have any scrubbers of any kind, and their local coals are of very low grade, as opposed to those imported from Australia, Europe and/or US.

airborne pollution isn't gonna go away overnight. We all have to do our part to save this environment before it's too late.


My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick


Those are not typical CFL bulbs in the link. They have a halogen bulb in them for an instant on that shuts off as the bulb lights up



To deal with the rather dim/poor light output during the initial stages of warming up, These GeeEee CFLs do come with a built-in small halogen bulb to "augment" the light output until the CFL portion of the lighting tube gets sufficiently warmed up and becomes operational.

I bought 8 of these CFLs (4 pks) back then when local wallymart mis-labeled them: paid 95cents per pack of 2.

I have 1 currently in-use as the backalley light just above the car garage gate (where the house sign locates)....they work well.

Dunno the longevity though for as I peeked through the glass envelope I can see some poor component arrangements and a rather inferior quality electroytic filtering capacitor within. Guess only time will tell ...

Q.
 
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