When to replace spindle bearings?

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In my JD model 47 deck I have
one totally quiet spindle

and 2 that have that "dry bearing" noise.

These are sealed bearings. Would you replace if its making noise freespinning?

they seem to spin fairly easily.

Bearings are 8.50$ each and you need 2 per spindle.

Spent 300$ on whole tractor.

Its currently getting new pto belt, new mower deck belt, new deck idler spring.

Thinking about just waiting on the spindle bearings until winter when its getting a ring job etc.
 
In my experience spindle bearings very rarely fail. If you think you can do the job fairly easily then I would replace... If not then let it wait.
 
The only part that can be frustrating is the "special" Deere snaprings
 
I had to replace my spindles because the "star" pattern that the blade fit in was worn out. The bearings were still good. With an aluminum housing I was afraid to press them out. I found a place on line where I got the complete housing, spindle and bearings for 19 dollars a piece shipped. 48 inch Craftsmen deck.
 
If they come apart replace them. I would do them all if you are going to do any.

I did mine two years ago. The shives wouldn't come off so I ended up taking them do a deere dealer and had them do them. It didn't cost much to have them done but I also had to have two new spindles and one shive.
 
If the dry spindles spin smoothly and there is no side to side movement of the spindle, you could just regrease them. A grease needle for grease guns works well for this.
 
Disclaimer: Pics are all [censored] cell phone pics with bad lighting. I don't break out the good camera with greasy hands.

the deck after another 4 hours of hard labor
deck.jpg



you have to totally tear the hub/spindle assembly down to regrease ... even then they are sealed bearings.


Spoiler:
hub's are 44$ naked or 97$ loaded(with 2-snapring, spacer 2-bearings)
Spindles are 34$ each
bearings 8.50$ each -2 per spindle
can of yellow spray paint in AG yellow 9.90
Bushing for idler armof tensioner pulley 3$
All new stainless steel hardware = about 25$
New tension spring = 19$
New Deck belt = 35$
new pto belt = 25$


I proceeded to tear down, Had to hammer a socket onto 2 of the bolts to get the blades off..

Getting new bolts.

2 of the circles on the spindles are abit off(what the blades center on) but its somewhat of an optical illusion. Measured they are ok to reuse. Which is good because they are 34$ each.

Deck has 3 of everything.

Proceeded to removing pulleys via not so BFG(2.5lb mini-sledge) with a block of wood and a punch.
Then had to pound out the spindles.. this is by no means an exhaustive list of steps. I don't want to write a book.

Left and right Hub assembly were dry and gross. Looked like dog hard poop with rust seasoning.

We wont mention the jobs of carriage bolts and stripped shoulders here
39.gif

Hub after teardown still has the mid snapring in covered with "grease"
HUB.jpg


Note: used a punch to knock the bearings out .. one from top .. one from bottom.

working on the 3rd spindle(middle one) it wasnt moving.
Suddenly it moved about 1/4" (hammering it)
uh oh... hint only one snapring in this pic.

snapring.jpg




Yep New hub time
I decided not to try to weld the very porous cast that had broken into 3 pieces not to mention you have to press the bearings through that opening.

Damaged hub
brokenhub.jpg


Will update after it gets cleaned up painted.. and fresh parts... oh and by a stroke of luck the hub bring replaced is the one with the stripped shoulders---where the carriage bolts go to prevent them from turning

Oh also welding the deck its cracked on both sides of the front roller...


PS: If I used the wrong word in this post somewhere I'm assuming you can figure out what I meant. Already edited it 4x
smile.gif
.. what happens when you post after 14 hours of work.
 
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use anti-seize compound on shafts, bolts, or anything you will want to take apart latter. if it has a heavy duty casting holding two bearings drill a hole in the casting half way between the bearings, and put a grease Zerk in it. and remove the seals facing each other so the grease can get to the bearings.
 
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