Looking for shear stable 5W-30 Oil

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I went from 0w-30 to 5w-40, and haven't really noticed any MPG difference; however, the 0w-30 I was using was high HT/HS ACEA A3 oil (non energy conserving), so not really comparable to something like PU 5w-30 that you're currently using.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
I went from 0w-30 to 5w-40, and haven't really noticed any MPG difference; however, the 0w-30 I was using was high HT/HS ACEA A3 oil (non energy conserving), so not really comparable to something like PU 5w-30 that you're currently using.


True, you make a good point. I suppose the only way to see how it does is to give it a try.
 
My gut feeling is that you will notice some MPG hit, but it won't be significant.

Of course, the definition of "significant" will now go under debate.
lol.gif


For me, if I'm getting 19 mpg around town, and even if I experienced 2% fuel economy drop, it would still round up to 19 mpg.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
For sure you won't be violating anything using the Amsoil EFM. The statement even says SL is ok.


+1

The service tech at the dealership i frequent uses Quaker State Defy in his Santa Fe Sport 2.0T. Defy is only SL.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
My interpretation: you need to use a 5w30 that meets ACEA A5, GF-4, and API SM. I don't know why 5w40 is on there because it's not possible to be 5w40 and A5.


You only need to use what they use at the dealership - SL-SM-SN / API 5w30 or 10w30 (Sonata and Genesis Coupe 5w40) / ILSAC GF-4^. If ACEA was a requirement, they would have to use that as FF. According to HyundaiUSA and the dealerships i've visited.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: wemay
they would have to use that as FF.

What does Hyundai use as FF in this engine?


From my understanding it's Quaker State Synthetic, not sure about the grade.

Some sources have said 5W-40, others have said 5W-30. Hyundai officially says their cars leave the factory with "high quality QS Synthetic".
 
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Just took a glance at the Hyundai Forums, seen a bunch of UOAs all showing nice results using Valvoline 5W-40.

Would there be a major difference between Amsoil, PU and Valvoline 5W-40 grades?

They all have nice specs, TBN hovers around the 10 mark, but PU has the lowest NOACK rating.... Which one to choose?
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: wemay
they would have to use that as FF.

What does Hyundai use as FF in this engine?


From my understanding it's Quaker State Synthetic, not sure about the grade.

Some sources have said 5W-40, others have said 5W-30. Hyundai officially says their cars leave the factory with "high quality QS Synthetic".


They do not use synthetic unless requested. They use whatever bulk is cheapest that meets the specs i've mentioned. If you ever take a look at your reciept after they conduct an oc, it says '5w30 non-synthetic'. One dealership i've used says their bulk is Formula Shell conventional, the other uses something called Maximo oil conventional. If the dealership you frequent uses QSUD, kudos to them.

They do not list the oil brands on the reciept. i thought i read on PQIA, some time ago, that begining this year, all dealerships and quick lube shops had to put this information on your ticket, i guess not.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Just took a glance at the Hyundai Forums, seen a bunch of UOAs all showing nice results using Valvoline 5W-40.

Would there be a major difference between Amsoil, PU and Valvoline 5W-40 grades?

They all have nice specs, TBN hovers around the 10 mark, but PU has the lowest NOACK rating.... Which one to choose?



Even Valvoline Premium Conventional (VWB) has shown good results concerning shear resistance. Valvoline SYNpower also came in third to EDGE (gold) and Amsoil in their TEOST test. At your OCI, i really see no issues with oil arising. So long as you go with spec'd quality oil.
 
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Sorry wemay I thought FF stood for factory fill!

Your absolutely right about dealers not using synthetic for our engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Swift101
Sorry wemay I thought FF stood for factory fill!

Your absolutely right about dealers not using synthetic for our engines.


No, you are correct Swift101, FF is Factory Fill. I just used it to mean dealership fill, my error.

I was told the SFS 2.0T left the factory with Formula Shell 5w30 conventional. Who knows for sure.

Test reuslts:

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf
 
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I was told the SFS 2.0T left the factory with Formula Shell 5w30 conventional. Who knows for sure.


That's interesting, I think Hyundai doesn't like to give to many details or the people in charge of customer support have conflicting information.

What I don't understand is that we both have the same engine yet your manual doesn't list 5W-40, and you would think the Santa Fe being a heavier car it would benefit from a "thicker" oil. (Especially if your towing)

My plan is slowly extend my OCI since I do a lot of highway driving. I don't mind changing my oil frequently but it would be nice if I could go 4-4.5k between changes. It would be a plus to have some extra protection when I'm pushing the car hard, which is why I'm looking at 5W-40.
 
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Originally Posted By: Swift101
What I don't understand is that we both have the same engine yet your manual doesn't list 5W-40


My contention from the start as well. When i asked the Svc Techs about 5w40 or synthetic in-general (because i always bring a jug for them to use if not doing it DIY), they've all said that this engine does not require synthetic unless tracked. It is made (as Quattro Pete and Salv have written) with fuel dilution factored into the equation. I completely understand why some folks would prefer to use a syn, but remember, most people driving Sonata's and Santa Fe Sport's are moms and dads that have no interest in oil and rarely change it on time much less pay the premium for synthetic. My oppinion is that the conservative OEM OCI requirements of 5K miles protects Hyundai/Kia from any of these issues popping up. Any decent oil can last that long in a family daily driver.
 
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Originally Posted By: Swift101
Just took a glance at the Hyundai Forums, seen a bunch of UOAs all showing nice results using Valvoline 5W-40.

Would there be a major difference between Amsoil, PU and Valvoline 5W-40 grades?

They all have nice specs, TBN hovers around the 10 mark, but PU has the lowest NOACK rating.... Which one to choose?


Was it Valvoline Synpower? The Synpower 5w-40 available at retail (MST) has a TBN of about 6.5-7, as expected for a mid/low SAPS oil. But as long as you're not going to run very long OCI, it shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb..._VO#Post2377575
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
ILSAC GF-4 Xw-40 oils don't exist, AFAIK.

Well, I take that back. Apparently they do exist:
http://www.eneos.us/product/5

But it's way too thick to meet ACEA A5.


M1 0W-40 briefly had energy conserving and (IIRC) GF-4 on the Oz bottles.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Why Amsoil guys?

Is it what all the cool kids are doing?


Actually, it's rarely mentioned on this board anymore. It's always Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra for everything.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Why Amsoil guys?

Is it what all the cool kids are doing?

because Amsoil is the only oil I've Never shear out of grade in a bunch if test on mustangs I've seen. and I'm talking being beat on.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
But it's way too thick to meet ACEA A5.

They are mistaken at the very least. They may meet certain components of the GF-5 standard, but obviously are not certified. If the bottle picture is recent, that's the first clue. I see no Starburst and no wording in the bottom portion of the API logo.

Most lubricant handbooks mention that 40 grades are not eligible for ILSAC certification.

Swift101: When I switched to Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 from PYB 5w-30, there was no statistically significant difference in fuel economy. I posted the analysis on it here somewhere.

If I had your car, I'd be probably using what I'm using now, given the price advantage up here. Or, I'd go to a 5w-30 conventional, or if I were really worried about the wording of the manual (which wemay has already investigated with the manufacturer), I'd buy an SN/GF-5 A5/B5 synthetic 5w-30, like M1, Syntec, QSUD, PP, PU, and so forth.
 
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