So Im thinking M1 Ow40 for 2002 Bmw M3, only has 50000 Kilometeres so thats about 30 mi or under, also when I was at napa saw Liqui Moly and M1 15w50 which also caught my eye, whatever I run will be with a dose of CERATEC as well. I know it calls for 10W60 Castrol but I'm not a fan of it. I won't be tracking it, at most spirited runs down the twisty country roads and in town cruising. Give me your thoughts! [img:center][/img] /Users/domenic/Desktop/$_20-2.JPG/Users/domenic/Desktop/$_20-1.JPG/Users/domenic/Desktop/photo 2.JPG
Help with oil decision! BMW M3
- Thread starter domer10
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And how does one post pictures? lol
You need to host the photos online somewhere, like imgur, Photobucket, etc.
What do you not like about the Castrol Edge Professional 10w60? Your motor is spec'd for it. This oil was selected because of some intentional design choices in that motor. The E46 M3 had some problems that were corrected with new parts, but the switch to TWS also helped with that (supposedly).
I would not advise running 15w50 in there, nor do you need to add Ceratec. Any of the off-the-shelf Euro oils should work if you don't want to run TWS: Mobil 1 0w40, Pennzoil Ultra 5w40, or Castrol Edge 0w40. They can be found at most auto parts stores.
What do you not like about the Castrol Edge Professional 10w60? Your motor is spec'd for it. This oil was selected because of some intentional design choices in that motor. The E46 M3 had some problems that were corrected with new parts, but the switch to TWS also helped with that (supposedly).
I would not advise running 15w50 in there, nor do you need to add Ceratec. Any of the off-the-shelf Euro oils should work if you don't want to run TWS: Mobil 1 0w40, Pennzoil Ultra 5w40, or Castrol Edge 0w40. They can be found at most auto parts stores.
Originally Posted By: domer10
whatever I run will be with a dose of CERATEC as well.
What engine problem are you trying to solve?
whatever I run will be with a dose of CERATEC as well.
What engine problem are you trying to solve?
Not trying to solve any problem, trying to prevent wear, added protection.....as this M3 was known to have bearing issues as well. That or Mos2....why does there have to be a problem if someone wants to run a additive? Im just trying to add extra measure of protection. More preventative to avoid a problem. I know that castrol was specified for this motor, but The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
In that case, domer, I would just go with any of the off-the-shelf Euro oils I suggested (they all meet BMW LL-01). Get whichever is on sale. A 6000-7000 mile change interval should be just fine.
If you want to spend a little extra, you could consider something like Red Line 0w40 or Renewable Lube 5w40. Those do not carry the BMW approvals, but are blended to very high standards.
Sweet ride, by the way!
If you want to spend a little extra, you could consider something like Red Line 0w40 or Renewable Lube 5w40. Those do not carry the BMW approvals, but are blended to very high standards.
Sweet ride, by the way!
Originally Posted By: domer10
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
There are two schools of thought on the bearing issue. A few of the very early E92 M3s (totally different motor) suffered from a similar problem.
One school of thought is that TWS was spec'd to help fix this problem since it can handle the extreme stresses in that part of the engine.
The other school of thought is that TWS is actually the cause of the problem and makes it worse. How can that be? If the bearing tolerances are too tight, running an overly-thick oil means even less of it gets in there and you have lower protection. Running something a bit thinner, like an LL-01, would reduce that problem.
It's hard to prove either group wrong. There are people running TWS with good oil analysis results (low lead numbers) and no motor issues, and then there are those who ran TWS and still had the problem (high lead numbers). Conversely, there are people who ran M1 0w40 and had the problem, and others who ran it without problems. A lot of people who switched from TWS to M1 0w40 saw a decrease in lead, interestingly.
One school of thought is that TWS was spec'd to help fix this problem since it can handle the extreme stresses in that part of the engine.
The other school of thought is that TWS is actually the cause of the problem and makes it worse. How can that be? If the bearing tolerances are too tight, running an overly-thick oil means even less of it gets in there and you have lower protection. Running something a bit thinner, like an LL-01, would reduce that problem.
It's hard to prove either group wrong. There are people running TWS with good oil analysis results (low lead numbers) and no motor issues, and then there are those who ran TWS and still had the problem (high lead numbers). Conversely, there are people who ran M1 0w40 and had the problem, and others who ran it without problems. A lot of people who switched from TWS to M1 0w40 saw a decrease in lead, interestingly.
Run 0w20, you'll gain at least 5hp and it'll prevent cold start up wear.
Originally Posted By: EddieCairns
Originally Posted By: domer10
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
Umm ya as stated I am thinking of the 3 in my OP and asking advice on those....those are the better options. And thats why I'm asking you guys, out of those which one would you consider.
Originally Posted By: domer10
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
Umm ya as stated I am thinking of the 3 in my OP and asking advice on those....those are the better options. And thats why I'm asking you guys, out of those which one would you consider.
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Run 0w20, you'll gain at least 5hp and it'll prevent cold start up wear.
Is that a serious answer? I don't plan on running it in cold weather what so ever. And no way a 20 is going in his motor. 40 is lowest i will even consider.
Run 0w20, you'll gain at least 5hp and it'll prevent cold start up wear.
Is that a serious answer? I don't plan on running it in cold weather what so ever. And no way a 20 is going in his motor. 40 is lowest i will even consider.
I would run M1 0w40 or any other euro oil that is easily available and skip the additives.
Originally Posted By: EddieCairns
Originally Posted By: domer10
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
Actually he asked about oil,not whether or not bitogers feel that he should use ceratec.
So why not just answer the question and save the opinion,unless of course he asks an opinion if whether or not he should use ceratec.
OP
Many here have vast knowledge and and seem to want to share it,in regards to products they've never used,so armed with that lack of experience they choose to share an opinion on a question you never asked.
Anyways I love liqui-moly and use ceratec and mos2 in various vehicles. Contrary to inexperienced opinion their products work as described,so ignore the peanut gallery considering most if not all the naysayers have never used any of it therefore their comments empty.
As far as oil m1 0w-40 is always a winner and the price is nice.
Originally Posted By: domer10
The specified it because of the issues associated with the car, and the way I am running the car there is no reason for me to use that oil, not only that it is ridiculously priced, when I can get far better options far better prices!
Sorry domer10
You are asking for advice, then when given advice, you then advise us you do not need the recommended oil and you can get far better options for a better price.
Can you advise us what the better options are and why they are better.
eddie
Actually he asked about oil,not whether or not bitogers feel that he should use ceratec.
So why not just answer the question and save the opinion,unless of course he asks an opinion if whether or not he should use ceratec.
OP
Many here have vast knowledge and and seem to want to share it,in regards to products they've never used,so armed with that lack of experience they choose to share an opinion on a question you never asked.
Anyways I love liqui-moly and use ceratec and mos2 in various vehicles. Contrary to inexperienced opinion their products work as described,so ignore the peanut gallery considering most if not all the naysayers have never used any of it therefore their comments empty.
As far as oil m1 0w-40 is always a winner and the price is nice.
Actually he asked about oil,not whether or not bitogers feel that he should use ceratec.
So why not just answer the question and save the opinion,unless of course he asks an opinion if whether or not he should use ceratec.
OP
Many here have vast knowledge and and seem to want to share it,in regards to products they've never used,so armed with that lack of experience they choose to share an opinion on a question you never asked.
Anyways I love liqui-moly and use ceratec and mos2 in various vehicles. Contrary to inexperienced opinion their products work as described,so ignore the peanut gallery considering most if not all the naysayers have never used any of it therefore their comments empty.
As far as oil m1 0w-40 is always a winner and the price is nice. [/quote]
I know buddy, we spoke before about it, I have used it in my hemi 5.7 and hemi tic has all but vanished, can't even feel the idle through the steering wheel as I did previous, running M1 5w20 with it, about to do a sample and send it off, thing is I didn't do a analysis prior to cerated, wish I had. Anyways to topic at hand, I am leaning towards m1 for this application as well, maybe a short run, just as a clean up. not that its dirty...I don't know, but just as peace of mind. Then run another cycle longer do a sample and see what is going on internally, then add the ceratec. Ideally I would Like to add at first but I would also like to get a baseline sample and then see if the additive is actually doing its thing, but I believe that it does seeing UOA online of euro vehicles running it.
So why not just answer the question and save the opinion,unless of course he asks an opinion if whether or not he should use ceratec.
OP
Many here have vast knowledge and and seem to want to share it,in regards to products they've never used,so armed with that lack of experience they choose to share an opinion on a question you never asked.
Anyways I love liqui-moly and use ceratec and mos2 in various vehicles. Contrary to inexperienced opinion their products work as described,so ignore the peanut gallery considering most if not all the naysayers have never used any of it therefore their comments empty.
As far as oil m1 0w-40 is always a winner and the price is nice. [/quote]
I know buddy, we spoke before about it, I have used it in my hemi 5.7 and hemi tic has all but vanished, can't even feel the idle through the steering wheel as I did previous, running M1 5w20 with it, about to do a sample and send it off, thing is I didn't do a analysis prior to cerated, wish I had. Anyways to topic at hand, I am leaning towards m1 for this application as well, maybe a short run, just as a clean up. not that its dirty...I don't know, but just as peace of mind. Then run another cycle longer do a sample and see what is going on internally, then add the ceratec. Ideally I would Like to add at first but I would also like to get a baseline sample and then see if the additive is actually doing its thing, but I believe that it does seeing UOA online of euro vehicles running it.
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Why not.....Im letting you know that I'm running it, I wasn't asking your opinion on ceratec. Asking opinion on oil.
Originally Posted By: domer10
Why not.....Im letting you know that I'm running it, I wasn't asking your opinion on ceratec. Asking opinion on oil.
Most here feel that an engine oil is formulated fine the way it is. And to be honest they're right,and I don't blame them for leaving oil additives on the shelf.
The only thing that bothers me is if a person has never used a product exactly how would they know anything about it.
Liqui-moly products perform as advertised and they are the only products I will add to my crankcase.
Yes,many additives are snake oi but to lump every single one together and label them useless is laughable,especially if they've never used the product
Why not.....Im letting you know that I'm running it, I wasn't asking your opinion on ceratec. Asking opinion on oil.
Most here feel that an engine oil is formulated fine the way it is. And to be honest they're right,and I don't blame them for leaving oil additives on the shelf.
The only thing that bothers me is if a person has never used a product exactly how would they know anything about it.
Liqui-moly products perform as advertised and they are the only products I will add to my crankcase.
Yes,many additives are snake oi but to lump every single one together and label them useless is laughable,especially if they've never used the product
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3316350/BMW_M3_10w-60?#Post3316350
Considering you asked this question previously, but added the fact this time that you plan on using the additive.
Its a forum, if you give people information they are likely to comment on it whether you give them the permission to or not
The whole point of the forum is to discuss
Considering you asked this question previously, but added the fact this time that you plan on using the additive.
Its a forum, if you give people information they are likely to comment on it whether you give them the permission to or not
The whole point of the forum is to discuss
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If you're so interested in using Ceratec, then go for it. Get the oil analyzed after you use it and see if it was even necessary (I suspect it won't be). That's the best way to know for sure.
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