Oil for Generac GP5500

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MikeinNY

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Long Island, NY
Hi all...new to the forum. I never realized how much there is to learn about oil, but I am having fun.

I've been looking around the site for information about the best oil for my generator, which has splash lubrication.

So far I used the SAE30 oil that came with the generator for about 20hrs and then changed to Valvoline SynPower 5w-30. As I learned more about differences between air cooled vs liquid cooled engines, I changed over to Mobil 1 HM 10w/30 based on others positive reviews.

However, I also see Rotella T5/6, Amsoil 10-30, and Valvoline VR 10-30, and Castrol synthetics mentioned a lot as well.

Should I keep using Mobile1 HM or go to something else mentioned above? Also, which weight? Keeping in mind that we have 4 seasons here and Summer is on its way.

I would appreciate any information/suggestions. I bought this generator after Sandy and would like to keep it in great shape. I run it once a month with a load as well.

Thanks for reading.
 
The Mobil 1 HM 10w30 is the perfect choice. If you experience very cold temperatures you can move to the M1 5w30 HM or Mobil 1 0w40 / German Castrol 0w30.
 
Don't use a High Mileage oil unless you are burning oil.

It can contain seal swellers, which can cause premature wear.
(seals swell to stop leaks, then when HM oil use is stopped, seals shrink back out of shape)

A name brand full synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30
(first number is viscosity when cold),
or if it's really cold, a 0W-30 will work.

Put a vibration meter on the engine,
use a good filter (Purolator PureOne or Fram Toughguard or better),
change oil at 2 years, or 200 hours,
whichever comes first....
 
Thanks for the responses so far. My generator does not have a filter, it's a 389cc motor that only uses splash lube. The genny only has 23 hrs on it. I used valvoline synpower 5-30 for 3 hrs and I did not like the way it looked after 3hrs of whole house duty. It was pretty dark with a cloudiness to it also there were air bubble/foamy looking stuff sitting on top of oil. I guess it was too hot for the oil?

I have a few quarts of 5-30 castrol Edge ( syntec) on hand. What do you guys think? Should I try it or try others mentioned already. Which oils are good for OPE engines? Thanks again
 
Mike: Hello

I have the same generator, with 85 hours on her. Not even really broke in.

I have only had to use it one time-->Ice Storm power outage. Used it to power furnace and 2 lights and Ice box.

After the 3 hour breakin on the oil that came with the Generac.

I drained and poured in M1 HM 10W-30.

After the ice storm I drained and poured in RTS T6 5W-40.

Don't know why. I had it left over from my powerstroke oil change.

Nothing wrong with 5W-30 or 10W-30-->Just change it after hard use. I will always some type of synthetic be it full or semi.

My first 2 choices would be in no particular order

Synthetic 10W30 or HDDO 5W-40
 
I truly am more worried about keeping the fuel fresh.

Having a no start generator in a time of need due to a gummed up carburetor is pretty dang upsetting.

I do run mine for about 1/2 hour each month.

Don't forget that air filter!!

Your 5W-30 Edge will work fine. After 24-48hrs of hard use, I would change it.--->Just me.
 
Awesome guys.

I use stabil immediately when filling up as fuel stabilizer. I also use their ethanol shield. I have 2 Eagle 5 gal metal tanks (love them) and a plastic Briggs 6 gal. I always rotate the gas.
 
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Don't use a High Mileage oil unless you are burning oil.

It can contain seal swellers, which can cause premature wear.
(seals swell to stop leaks, then when HM oil use is stopped, seals shrink back out of shape)

A name brand full synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30
(first number is viscosity when cold),
or if it's really cold, a 0W-30 will work.

Put a vibration meter on the engine,
use a good filter (Purolator PureOne or Fram Toughguard or better),
change oil at 2 years, or 200 hours,
whichever comes first....



200 hours is insanity. The owners manual says to change the oil every 100 hours or every season. Severe duty (heavy load or high temps) bumps that down to every month.

200 hours on a typical car engine operated at 60mph would be 12,000 miles which is a stretch for many oils, synthetic or not. And modern car engines are water-cooled, fuel injected, and have oil filters. The OP's generator has none of those features, all of which can extend the useful life of oil.

Pretty much every high mileage oil maker states their oil is safe to use in new engines.

IIRC, some esters may swell or "condition" seals, regardless of whether or not the oil is marketed as high mileage. Some synthetics and syn-blends may contain esters which may affect seals.

OP, I run M1 TDT 5W-40 in my Briggs 6kw generator. I wouldn't hesitate to run T6, M1 HM, M1 0W-40, or most other name brand synthetic. Given that a generator is likely to be used under adverse conditions (extreme heat or cold, economic distress, etc.), I want an oil that will provide some leeway in the event I am unable to change the oil on schedule. A synthetic should provide that leeway, especially some of the 'stronger' synthetics such as M1 HM, M1 0W-40, GC, and HDEOs.

Keep extra spark plugs and air filters on hand for your generator. A no-start from a bad plug with no replacement on hand would be bad in the middle of an ice storm or hurricane.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
200 hours? You're crazy!


That was from Matts with cats. B&S says 5 hours on factory fill and then change every 50 hours or yearly there after, whether you use a synthetic oil or dino oil.

Whimsey
 
200 running hours might be a little much.
All our generators and compressors are on 100hr/every second Saturday oil change intervals using conventional oil.
I find fuel dilution is a problem in all our machines so in the summer I use an hdeo 15w-40 bought in 5 gallon pails,usually rotella.
This winter was brutally cold so I used up some of my 5w-20 I had stockpiled. They started a bit easier but that could have been because the oil was synthetic. I probably won't try it again,unless I can get a super deal on the oil
 
Welcome Mike!
I have a 3500W HF Chicago generator. My manual calls for oil changes at 50 hours; seem like most of them do. At 2/3 Qt. of oil, I put either a full synthetic 5W-40 or M1 0W-40 in it for year round use. I load test it about 4 times a year @ 65% output for a half-hour to make sure it's G2G when needed. I change the oil every other year. Overkill, I'm sure, but to me it's cheap peace of mind.
One of the important things it to get rid of the pathetic Chinese sparkplug. Get two good ones and keep the original as a spare.
I use sta-bil marine for my fuel, and as a further precaution I've started to run the carb dry when I put it away. It's always been a one or two pull start since I've begun doing that.
 
Originally Posted By: strat81
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Don't use a High Mileage oil unless you are burning oil.

It can contain seal swellers, which can cause premature wear.
(seals swell to stop leaks, then when HM oil use is stopped, seals shrink back out of shape)

A name brand full synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30
(first number is viscosity when cold),
or if it's really cold, a 0W-30 will work.

Put a vibration meter on the engine,
use a good filter (Purolator PureOne or Fram Toughguard or better),
change oil at 2 years, or 200 hours,
whichever comes first....



200 hours is insanity. The owners manual says to change the oil every 100 hours or every season. Severe duty (heavy load or high temps) bumps that down to every month.

200 hours on a typical car engine operated at 60mph would be 12,000 miles which is a stretch for many oils, synthetic or not. And modern car engines are water-cooled, fuel injected, and have oil filters. The OP's generator has none of those features, all of which can extend the useful life of oil.

Pretty much every high mileage oil maker states their oil is safe to use in new engines.

IIRC, some esters may swell or "condition" seals, regardless of whether or not the oil is marketed as high mileage. Some synthetics and syn-blends may contain esters which may affect seals.

OP, I run M1 TDT 5W-40 in my Briggs 6kw generator. I wouldn't hesitate to run T6, M1 HM, M1 0W-40, or most other name brand synthetic. Given that a generator is likely to be used under adverse conditions (extreme heat or cold, economic distress, etc.), I want an oil that will provide some leeway in the event I am unable to change the oil on schedule. A synthetic should provide that leeway, especially some of the 'stronger' synthetics such as M1 HM, M1 0W-40, GC, and HDEOs.

Keep extra spark plugs and air filters on hand for your generator. A no-start from a bad plug with no replacement on hand would be bad in the middle of an ice storm or hurricane.


Read his post again, he is talking about a oil filter, so one can assume his generator engine has an oil filter, still even with a filter 100 hours is probably a better OCI. At least he is ahead of people who never change the oil, and then wonder why it won't run anymore.
 
Originally Posted By: 2cool
Welcome Mike!
I have a 3500W HF Chicago generator. My manual calls for oil changes at 50 hours; seem like most of them do. At 2/3 Qt. of oil, I put either a full synthetic 5W-40 or M1 0W-40 in it for year round use. I load test it about 4 times a year @ 65% output for a half-hour to make sure it's G2G when needed. I change the oil every other year. Overkill, I'm sure, but to me it's cheap peace of mind.
One of the important things it to get rid of the pathetic Chinese sparkplug. Get two good ones and keep the original as a spare.
I use sta-bil marine for my fuel, and as a further precaution I've started to run the carb dry when I put it away. It's always been a one or two pull start since I've begun doing that.


Thanks for your reply.

I decided to go with my fav M1 5w-30 which will be my year round oil. Just to make sure, I called Mobile and they assured me it is a great oil for OPE such as my generator.

I also run the genny dry when shutting down; been doing it since I got it based on numerous complaints I read on forums about carbs gunking up and leaking while doing my research.

I have not pulled the plug yet (only has 26.5hrs) but since you mentioned it, I will tomorrow and grab two good ones. My air filter is foam so all I have to do is clean and re-oil it as needed.

Ran it today on whole house duty for two hours. It ran great
 
My Subaru/Robin 4300 genny gets RT5 10W-30.

Reason? I'm partial to SOPUS products. Do I think my generator will last longer using it versus using unicorn tears from AMSOIL or M1 TDT or almost any other oil? No, it just makes me feel fuzzy. I think using the correct grade for the operating environment is way more important than who makes it.
 
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